FALL ON ROCK, FRIEND PULLED OUT

Washington, Peshastin Pinnacles

On November 4, 1985, John Virnig (21) was climbing Lightning Crack on Peshastin Pinnacles when he took a leader fall on a friction move. A Friend he had placed for protection came out, resulting in a total fall of 15 meters. Injuries included a compound fracture of the pelvis and a broken left arm. He was rescued via the Chelan County Sheriff’s Office. (Source: George Sainsbury)

Analysis

Reviewing the number of cases in which Friends have pulled out in the past several years suggests that climbers using these protection devices need to acquaint themselves fully with the kind of placements most favorable. (Source: J. Williamson)