Everest in the Pre-Monsoon Season. Everest overwhelmingly dominated Nepal’s climbing scene this spring. Half of the 30 expeditions that went to Nepal came to Everest 40 years after its first ascent. Of the 429 men and women who went climbing above...
OVERDUE – DID NOT RETURN, UNKNOWN CAUSE OF FALLOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier HeadwallOn early Friday morning, December 11, Luke Gullberg, (26), Anthony Vietti, (24), and Katie Nolan (29) left Timberline for a climb of the Sandy Glacier Headwal...
Wyoming RockiesTeton RangeThe 1935 season in the Tetons was exceptional because of the number of ascents made and the original character of some of the climbs. One after another new routes were completed, including one on the Grand Teton, three on...
El Everest, Historia de una conquista. Conrad Blanch and Joan Massons. Ediciones Península, Barcelona. 1986. 236 pages, 174 color photographs.This lovely, large-format book reports on the Spanish Catalan expeditions to Mount Everest, an unsuccessf...
Twin Peak I. Previously unreported was a 2005 visit to the Kero-Lungma Glacier by a small British expedition comprising Bill Church, Pete Holden, and Colin Morton. During July and August they planned to explore the northeast branch and climb some ...
Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge, Thunderbird Variation Attempt. Simon Abrahams, Jim Hall, and Nick Lewis flew into Logan in two flights. On May 9, we skied around to below the east side of Logan via the Water Pass and dumped a cache of food for our...
Satopanth. A 7-member team of the Toyama Sansoh Alpine Club of Japan led by Shigeyoshi Kido climbed Santopanth by the north ridge. On August 16, Shigeo Yoneda, Hiroyuki Fujimura and Shigeyoshi Saeki reached the summit.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himava...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQAUTE PROTECTIONNevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, Pine Creek CanyonOn March 12, around 1:00 p.m., there was a serious leader fall on the lower section of the third pitch (the long 5.8 corner) of the route Dark Shadows on the Mescalit...
Panpatia Glacier, various ascents. A nine-member group of Irish climbers and trekkers, most of whom had never been on an expedition, made first ascents of four modest peaks above the Panpatia ice cap. The climbing party comprised Martin Boner, Geo...
WILLIAM HENRY JACKSON1843-1942Mr. Jackson, pioneer, artist and writer, was born on April 4th, 1843, and died on June 31st, 1942. The first 50 years of his life found him striking out from up-state New York, after service in the Civil War, into alm...
Lightning Hazards to MountaineersAlvin E. Peterson*Although statistics show that lightning is not one of the major hazards of mountaineering, enough casualties and near casualties have been reported that the matter is at least one of concern. Moun...
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS (AMS), PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHER California, Mount ShastaOn May 25, Mike Turegun (35) and John Cain (49) approached Mount Shasta via Northgate, setting up a base camp at 9,000 feet on the bench near the Hotlum/Bolam Route. O...
"… no one needs to be taught to climb; one merely needs reminding of something one knew even before going to school.” —Tom Patey, “Apes or Ballerinas,” Mountain, May 1969 WHILE the theory of crack climbing is simple, the practice can be qu...
Kangchenjunga’s North FaceCarlos BuhlerKANGCHENJUNGA’S NORTH FACE rises two vertical miles in one sweep of overlapping cliffs, rock faces and hanging glaciers. It is a masterpiece of nature’s architecture, designed to discourage climbers from atte...
San Rafael Swell, La Piñata. On November 9, Franziska Garrett and I were surprised to find the big hulk of a desert tower adjacent (west-northwest) to Mexican Mountain still unclimbed. After driving the Mexican Mountain Road and parking at its ter...
National Climbing Classification SystemLeigh N. OrtenburgerTwo years have now passed since efforts were initiated to establish a single climbing classification system for use throughout the United States. The intention was to devise a logical and ...
Vancouver EpisodeWilliam R. Hainsworth THE Seward Glacier storm was running true to form when Walter Wood suggested I take advantage of the “socked in” day to jot down a few notes, while memories were fresh, on the ascent of Mount Vancouver. Immed...
Attempt on Mount Kimball, Eastern Alaska Range. Mount Kimball (10,350 feet) is fully 500 feet higher than its nearest contender in the eastern Alaska Range, although many of the lesser peaks east of the Richardson Highway have been climbed. A seri...
OVERDUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Jasper National Park, Mount GeraldineTwo inexperienced climbers read the route description for Mount Geraldine in a local guidebook and decided that this was a reasonable objective for low- end climbers. Although M...
A Himalayan Classic—Makalu’s West PillarKitty Calhoun GrissomMY HEART WAS POUNDING from lack of oxygen and excitement as I scrambled up the last talus slope and reached the abandoned stone walls that would become our Base Camp. Above, thin wispy c...