South America, Bolivia, Peru, Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real, Bolivia, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real, Bolivia; and Ouitaraju, Cordillera Blanca, Peru. The New Zealanders, Donald Mackay, Jean Nelson, Ed and Jen Cotter and Harold Jacobs entered the northern Cordillera Real from Warizata, 50 miles north of La Paz, on May 28, crossed a 15,500- foot ridge and ascended the Chearuco River to Lago San Francisco and Base Camp at 14,000 feet below Ancohuma. Mrs. Nelson had a bout of pulmonary edema and left, but returned on June 2 with her husband, A.A.C.-member Michael Nelson. E. Cotter, Jacobs and Mackay moved camp to 16,000 feet at the snout of the Chearuco Glacier. The next day, June 2, they climbed the two lesser summits of the Casiri group, Casiri Norte (18,900 feet) and Casiri Aguja (19,000 feet), but did not reach the highest summit. On the following day they climbed a 19,300-foot peak for which they suggest the name of Arichiri ("Sharpener”), the first major mountain south of Ancohuma. On June 6 Mackay and Jacobs climbed to the summit of Casiri (19,122 feet), a second ascent. (First ascent: H. Horoschowsky and H. Hortnagel on June 19, 1928. — Editor.) On June 7 Jacobs, Mackay and M. Nelson climbed a c. 18,500-foot peak southeast of Casiri, which they called Taparacu ("Butterfly Peak”). They then turned their attention to Ancohuma, placing Camp I at 17,500 feet at the edge of the ice north of Base Camp and Camp II at 18,700 feet up a wide ice shelf three miles further north at the foot of the southwest face. On June 13 E. Cotter, Jacobs, Mackay and M. Nelson climbed the west ridge to the 21,082-foot summit of Ancohuma for its fourth ascent. They traversed the peak, descending by the southeast ridge and southwest face. On July 14 they crossed a snow basin west of camp and climbed straight up the face to the summit of Haukaña (20,496 feet), a second ascent. (First ascent: R. Dienst, A. Schulze in June 1919. — Editor.) On June 17 Mr. and Mrs. Nelson again climbed Arichiri. This completed the climbing in Bolivia. They moved into Peru, to the Quebrada Santa Cruz, reaching Base Camp at 13,000 feet above Antankocha (lake) on June 27. They placed Camp II in a 17,000-foot col which they thought, thanks to inaccuracies of the map, was between Quitaraju and Pucahirca, but which was in fact between Alpamayo and Pucahirca. While Mackay and Nelson reconnoitered a route from the col across the face to the north ridge of Alpamayo, E. Cotter and Jacobs reconnoitered its very difficult east ridge. While descending in the dark, Jacobs broke his leg. His evacuation to Carás took five days. Upon the rescuers’ return, they placed a camp in the 18,200-foot col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. On July 10 E. Cotter, Mackay and M. Nelson climbed the east ridge of Loyacjirca (18,373 feet) and the next day ascended the north face of Quitaraju (19,850 feet). Both have been ascended several times. For a full account see the Alpine Journal, November, 1964.