The Naked Mountain. Reinhold Messner. (Tim Carruthers, translator.) Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2003. 315 pages. Hardcover. $22.95.The Naked Mountain is Reinhold Messner’s account of the 1970 expedition to climb Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face, led...
Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains. Neville Shulman. Charles E. Tuttle Co., Boston, Rutland, Tokyo, 1992. 117 pages, black-and-white photographs, foreword by Chris Bonington. $12.95.Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains is the account of Neville ...
Maoist activity in the spring. Maoists continued to extort funds from climbers. They charged Norbert Joos’s Kangchenjunga six-member group 5,000Rs (roughly $70) per member. Another team, a Georgian and a Russian, on their way to Manaslu, were forc...
Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), first ascent;Chiatuk (5,582m), northwest face; Pt.5,485m (Tiltagh), west face route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315m), north face. From Bishkek our organizers on the ground (Novino-mad—very good) arranged overnight accommodation an...
Mt. Wood to Mt. Macauley to Mt. Steele, High Traverse. On July 28, John Millar, David Persson and I flew in to the Trapridge Glacier, where we met Alun Hubbard and Dave Hildes, who were finishing up glaciology fieldwork. In the next five days, we ...
Teton Ridges and FacesM. Beckett HoworthA GOOD season seemed in store for us. There had been more snow in the Tetons during the spring than many an old-timer had ever seen. Ten-foot depths had been measured in Hoback Canyon. Several thousand elk, ...
Reconnaissance in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaHenry S. Hall, Jr.UTNTIL a few years ago the Coast Range of British Columbia was not thought to contain any peaks comparable with the principal summits of the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks. In 1...
Mt. Dag, Ankles as Far as the Eye Can See, Ankles Me Boy, New Routes. On August 1, Jason Magness, Sam Price, Mike Brown, George Ortiz, Craig Clarence, and I all met in Slocan, British Columbia. Our goal was to put up a new route on the north face ...
Morgan Harris 1916-2005The last of the great Yosemite climbing pioneers of the 1930s has died. Morgan Harris, during his 88 years, lived an astonishingly rich life, serious climbing being only a small part of it. This obituary will necessarily emp...
Over five days in April Dave Everett and I did the first ascent of Meridian Tower, one of the last major unclimbed formations in Zion National Park. The formation is to the right of the Altar of Sacrifice and most prominently visible from Oscar’s ...
The Citadel, east buttress. The mythical Cathedral Spires of the remote, rarely frequented Kichatna Mountains were our destination. Pictures of granite spires forcing their way through bellowing cloud had sparked our imagination. Unfortunately, jo...
Sea Kayaking and Climbing, Chilean PatagoniaRick RidgewayFOR YEARS Yvon Chouinard and I have speculated about journeying into the labyrinth of canals, fjords and islands of the Magellanic archipelago—that remote region of Chilean Patagonia north o...
Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg 1968–2007 Lara Kellogg died last April in a fall she suffered while descending Mt. Wake in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge. She was two weeks shy of her 39th birthday. News of the accident immediately fanned out across her vast n...
Chamba-Lahul. Hamish McArthur, leader, and Mrs. McArthur, Frank and Mrs. Solari, Emile Bayle, and Margaret Munro set out from Manali at the head of the Kulu valley on July 24 for the Thirot Nala, a tributary of the Chandra-Bhaga River on the weste...
Bruce Miller and I spent nine days on Longs Peak between July 27 and August 26 establishing Hearts and Arrows, a free route up the center of the Diamond. We climbed the first four pitches of the Enos Mills Wall (V 5.11 A3), already freed at ...
Cordillera Blanca AdventureWilliam SiriIT IS perhaps surprising that mountaineers, who in the past fifty years have sought conquests in the most remote parts of the world, have devoted so little attention to one of the greatest, yet one of the mos...
SLIP ON ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 24, 1982, Stuart Hill (22) was accompanying Jenny Lake Ranger Leo Larson during a mountain patrol of the south ridge of Nez Perce. Helen Larson hiked in with them to the base of the climb. It was misty or rainy t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, MIS-COMMUNICATIONMassachusetts, Rattlesnake CliffOn June 21, 1984, I was climbing on Rattlesnake Cliff and was nearly at the top of the pitch with a top rope. I did not have my climbing shoes on and was getting very...
Acopan Tepui, Araguato King. On February 6, 2009, we left Arizona for the jungles of Venezuela. Descriptions of snakes, crocodiles, tarantulas, and ticks attached to the nether regions of the body had us scared before we even left. While the fligh...
FALL ON ROCK, SLACK IN ROPE-FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS, FATIGUE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 21,1986, about 2030, Austin Colley (43) and Joe Kristy (40) were climbing the Yosemite Point Buttress. Kristy had just led ...