El Gran Trono Blanco, Leaving On A Jet Plane. Mark Richards and I finished a new route, Leaving On A Jet Plane (VI A3+ 5.10, 13 pitches), between the Giraffe and Pan Am in early October. The route is non-stop exposure with a big-wall feel all the ...

Mt. Hunter, Corliss-Taylor Buttress. From May 13-21 Greg Corliss and I climbed a new route on Mt. Hunter that is essentially a variation of the existing South Ridge route. The climb rises in the middle of the south face, between the southeast spur...

Shohgologh Zom, Lunkho Group. Takao Nagamine, Tetsuo Shimada and I left Tokyo on July 21 and arrived in Chitral on the 24th, where we began the journey with 450 pounds of gear on four donkeys. We got to the last village, Phurgram, in the Rich Gol ...

Appalachian Mountains: (2) Mt. Katahdin. On 4 September 1948 Mary Rossbach (25-30) was climbing with her husband on Mt. Katahdin. They had climbed to Baxter Peak from the Chimney Pond Campground and had crossed the Knife Edge to Chimney Peak. In t...

Numbers Refer to Persons Directly InvolvedU.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock17012015919Snow10001723415 Ice631479River9210Unknown10400Ascent or DescentAscent13692016523Descent11031282713Unknown2022157Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock101393439Sli...

FALL FROM ROCK WHILE SETTING UP RAPPEL, NO HELMETTennessee, Prentice Cooper State ParkOn May 1, Chris Chesnutt (30) and two friends, Jerry Roberts (34) and Travis Eisman (30) spent a long day climbing in an undeveloped area in Prentice Cooper Stat...

Le Chamois, by Marcel A. J. Couturier. 4 to., xi + 855 pages, with 110 tables, 15 x-rays, 473 illustrations from photographs, 34 maps, bibliography and indices. Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1938.Although the author brought out his monumental work on the ...

Another Ascent of the World’s Highest Peak—Qomolangma, (no author given). Peking: Foreign Languages Press, 1975. 118 pages, many black-and-white and color photos.It is all too easy to make fun of the Chinese on Everest. By Western standards, their...

Mount Forel Region, East Greenland. The Imperial College East Greenland Expedition went as a sequel to the Imperial College Expedition to the same area last year. (A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, pp. 377-8.) Our 1967 expedition intended to attempt as many of ...

Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During the 2005 climbing season 86 persons participated in 29 mountaineering expeditions, accounting for 1,535 person-days in the icefields of Kluane National Park.As usual most ...

NevadoRasac, East Face Variant. Ecuadorians F. Espinoza, M. Purúncajas and H. Torres, from Ambato, made on August 3 a variant on the east face of Rasac (6040 meters, 19,817 feet) by keeping to its rock wall. They had to bivouac just below the top ...

Iowa Mountaineers. The past year was one of the most active in the club’s history. A total of 42 activities were sponsored with the membership again passing the 1000 mark, including the four classes of membership. The local outdoor activities were...

Steve Mather of the National Parks, by Robert Shankland. 326 pages, 24 illustrations, with an introduction by Gilbert Grosvenor. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1951. Price, $4.00.There are really several books within these covers. First, there is the ...

Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate, by Reinhold Messner. Translated by Audrey Salkeld. New York: Oxford University Press, 1979. 254 pages. Many photographs in black-and-white and in color. Price $16.95.The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ’78, by Pe...

Nanga Parbat, Southwest Ridge, Tragedy and Ascent. Our expedition, made up of Stefan Wörner, leader, Dr. Alex Berger, Martin Braun, Peter Hiltbrand, Norbert Joss, Hansruedi Staub and me, arrived on May 9 at Base Camp below the Diamir Face. On the ...

Borgtinde, Wiedermann Fjord, East Greenland. The objectives of the Sheffield University Expedition were to gain access to and investigate the Lilloise and Borgtinde intrusions. Our expedition was essentially geological but since to reach the Lillo...

Colorado: Estes Park, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 10 October 1949 another unsolved mystery of the mountains developed when two young hikers from the Colorado A. and M. Hikers’ Club disappeared on the top of 12,300-foot Flat Top Mountain. Davi...

FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 16,1987, Franziska Bracher (27) and Ivan Seeholzer, (24) from Switzerland, began their attempt for the summit from the 5200 meter camp on the West Buttress. Two other members of their party turne...

STRANDED, OFF-ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHERCalifornia, Inyo National Forest, Mount RitterOn September 7th, the park received a mutual aid request from Mono County SAR for assistance in rescuing a stranded c...

A Fight for Life on Monte RosaGUY M. EVERETTMOUNTAINEERING is full of light and air. The early call, the quick breakfast, and away into the darkness with the flashlight picking a way through the rocks of the terminal moraine. Thus it started for F...