Peaks 10,478', 9,900', and 10,088'. From May 8 to 17, James Dietzmann, Paul Templeton, and I did three possible first ascents of 10,000' peaks in the Wrangells. We had bad weather for most of the trip and were lucky to get any climbs in at all bet...
Mount Shasta. In the course of a study of the glaciers on the north side of the mountain in September, a party led by Norman Clyde and composed of Oliver Kehrlein, Wm. Horsfall, C. S. French, Charles Reid, Thom. Hunt, Howard Sills, and Kirkwood Bo...
Pisco Este, East Ridge, 1985. Italian brothers, Luca and Michele Dalla Palma, on June 12, 1985 completed a new route, the east ridge, on Pisco Este. In one day they climbed some 2500 vertical feet from the east col with ice up to 85° and rock of U...
Raid Peak, South Buttress and Face North of “Ambush Peak”. On July 16 and 17, John Bouchard and I climbed the 2000-foot south buttress of Raid Peak (12,532 feet). The climb starts 100 feet from the toe of the buttress. Three pitches led up an obvi...
El Toro, East Face. The east face of El Toro was climbed by Swiss, who reached the summit on June 20. They fixed some rope on this 3500-foot face. The climbers were Lucien Abbet, Patrick Delale, Jean-Pierre Frossard, Pierre- Antoine Hiroz and Stép...
Lupghar Sar. A Japanese expedition led by Kazuo Ito made the third ascent of this 23,610-foot (7196-meter) peak, climbing the southwest ridge. After approaching from Nagar to the Gharesa Glacier, most of the porters refused to go further and the c...
From August 4-12, 1996, Alexander Ruchkin and Alexander Odintsov established The Direct North Face (Russian Grade 6B, 5.11 A3+) on the north face of Ak-Su North (5217m). Practically nobody believed an ascent up the center of the wall was possible....
Cara Cruz, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Jona and Elizabeth Osauskas climbed Cara Cruz or Sarkantay Chico (17,123 feet) in June. (On the IGM Hoja Anta the names of Salcantay and Sarkantay have been reversed. P 6271 should be Salcantay.)John Ricker
Aconcagua Southwest Ridge. Milan Romih and I climbed in Argentina around the beginning of 1988. On December 31, 1987, I made a new route on the south face of Vallecitos (5340 meters, 17,520 feet), while Romih climbed the normal route. This lies in...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn April 15, 1985, about 1215, David Boles (30) took a five meter lead climbing fall while attempting the first pitch of a technical climb on the South Face of Sundance in an...
Nevado Sullcón, north face; Nevado Vicuñita Sur, southeast face, southwest face. Unusually bad weather and deep snow were a constant handicap during the 2001 climbing season in central Peru. In May J.P Perret and I attempted Pariacacca Norte (5701...
Mount Wake, Northeast Buttress, Ruth Gorge. Between May 11 and 15, Bruce Kay and I climbed a new route on Mount Wake. We ascended nearly 5000 vertical feet of snow and ice up to 70°, although later in the season much rock may be exposed on the low...
California, Yosemite National Park—Goodrich Pinnacle. On 20 June Ernest Milburn (18) and John Gibbins (20) had completed ascent of Goodrich Pinnacle (Glacier Point Apron) and were rappelling down route. One inch tubular nylon web rappel anchor sli...
Over five days in late November, Anna Pfaff and I traversed the six peaks of the Laguna Grande de la Sierra, on the west side of the Cocuy mountains. Starting from a base camp at the edge of Laguna Grande, eight miles from the last farm on the roa...
Catherine Freer, Renny Jackson, Sandy Stewart and I arrived at Base Camp at Tsholo at 4665 meters on October 14. We spent the next few days acclimatizing by walking up to Everest Base Camp to visit friends. On October 24 Freer and I started up the...
La Esfinge, southeast face, The Furious Gods. On January 1, 2003 Jeff Beaulieu and Vincent Légaré, of Quebec, Canada, reached the summit of La Esfinge (The Sphinx) by a new route. The Furious Gods (La Colera de los Dioses) (800m, VII 5.10 A4) took...
P 6520, Lake Clark National Park, 1991. During a three-week stay in Lake Clark National Park, on August 7, 1991 I climbed P 6520 by the east ridge. The rock was very loose near the top. The peak lies about two miles east of the northeast comer of ...
On June 22 Oriol Baro and Jordi Corominas from Spain reached the summit of Chacraraju Este, having completed a direct finish to the original 1962 French Route (950m, ED1/2, Dubost-Gendre- Magnone-Soubis-Terray), the hardest route in the Blanca ...
Varaha Shikhar (Fang) Attempt. Six Koreans led by Kim Jong-Duk hoped to climb a new route, the east face, on Varaha Shikhar. The highest point reached was 5450 meters, where Choi Young-Dae, Kim Sung-Mo and Ang Kami Sherpa pitched Camp II on Septem...
Noshaq. A group of 53 Europeans, organized in Italy by Beppe Tenti with technical direction by Reinhold Messner, invaded the Qazi Deh valley and placed Base Camp at the foot of Noshaq. Climbing activities were concentrated on Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18...