Albert Icefield Area. A University of Wisconsin party visited this remote area for 2½ weeks in August. From a base camp at the west edge of the Albert Icefield complex, we made ten first ascents of peaks between 8000 and 10,000 feet in height. Mem...
INADEQUATE FOOD AND FUEL, FAILURE TO TURN RACK,INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 1, Mitch Ward and Randy Adrian’s “Ice Skids” Expedition departed from Talkeetna to the north side of Denali National Park. They were dropped off by K-2 Aviati...
Tangi Ragi Tau South (Pahamlahaka) ascents and possible new route. Although they were unable to make any serious attempt on their main objective, the North Pillar/Face of Teng Kang Poche, a group of young French climbers were able to achieve sever...
Fitz Roy, Franco-Argentine Route, Second Solo Ascent. It was reported that Christoph Hainz ascended this route on December 24. From the Brecha de los Italianos he climbed the 650-meter route to the summit and back in nine hours using none of the f...
Mount Adams, East Face Direct via Victory Ridge. On the weekend of July 7 Don Gordon and I camped on the north side of the mountain, hoping to complete one of the few remaining unclimbed routes—a direct ascent of the east face in line with the sum...
Mount Colchuck, North Side Routes. Several routes have been done on this increasingly popular peak. In September 1969, Manuel Gonzalez and Don Williamson followed a prominent ledge system diagonaling up the face of the eastern side of the northeas...
Hengduan Range, Taniantawen Shan, exploration. In 2007 Tamotsu “Tom” Nakamura trekked along the Yu Qu Valley, photographing, to the west, the unknown Guezong massif and mountains to its south, and to the east, the northern part of the Nu Shan/Tani...
The Wisdom Tooth, South Face, New Route. It was reported that Graham Fontella, Bill Gambel, Mark Davis and Kevin Daniels put up a new route, Novocain (VI 5.10 A2), on the south face of the Wisdom Tooth in the Ruth Gorge over a five-day spell of go...
Rurigallay or Yantauri. Giuseppe Dionisi, leader, Eugenio Ferrero and Franco Ribetti on August 16 made the first ascent of Rurigallay (18,028 feet) by the west face in three days from Base Camp. They fixed 2500 feet of rope. Dionisi and Ferrero ha...
Stuttgart Hindu Kush Expedition, 1963. Rolf Reiser, leader, Dieter Grundig, Alfred Kehrle and Wolfgang Lutz traveled up the Panjir valley, over the Anjuman Pass to Anjuman and thence east into the Bologron valley, where they set up Base Camp at 14...
Chumstick Snag. A second route was made to this thin summit via the southwest face early in the year by Steve Marts and me. Iron placed in the spring of 1962 by Eric Bjornstad and me was used on the lower portion, and the climb was completed via a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATNevada, Red Rocks Canyon National Conservation Area, Lost CreekOn December 5, C. A. and a friend, both visiting from Austria, were climbing in the Lost Creek area of the Red Rock Canyon Conservation ...
Everest, post-monsoon attempt on the north face. There was one post-monsoon expedition to the Tibetan side of Everest: three strong and highly experienced Spaniards, Alberto Inurrategi, Ferran Latorre, and Juan Vallejo, who had a total of at least...
Masherbrum, South Face Attempt. Our expedition endeavored to climb the South Face of Masherbrum (7821 meters), first climbed by a strong American team in 1960. Our team consisted of Tod Andersen, my brother Sean Moore, Bill Pierson, Dr. Doug Redos...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The main Club activities for the year 1962 were, of course, the Spring Ski Camp and the Summer Climbing Camp. The Ski Camp was held in the Little Yoho Valley with the Club’s Stanley Mitchell Hut as headquarters. Due to t...
Northern Selkirks. As an adjunct to the completion of the Alpine Club of Canada’s Great Cairn Cabin (north of Sir Sandford, 6 bunks) and the Fairy Meadow Cabin (12 bunks), Ben Ferris and I organized a few climbs last July. Don Sprecker, Rob Wallac...
Oregon, Mt. Hood. On September 5, five Reed College students: Richard Steven Knutson (21), Mike Templeton (21), Tom Link (21), Gary Payne (19), and Steve McCarthy (19) ascended Mt. Hood by the Sunshine Route. They left their camp at 4:00 A.M. and ...
Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, free ascent of the Nose and monster linkup. On October 30-31, in a 23-hour and 23-minute continuous push, Tommy Caldwell freed both the Nose (5.14a) and Free Rider (5.12d). Earlier in October, Caldwell and Beth Rodden ...
Kohe Morusg and Other Peaks. The Kraków Section of the Polish Society of Earth Sciences sent out an expedition under the leadership of Jerzy Wala and composed of W. Borowiec, A. Paulo, L. Kaszowski, Anna Swierzynska, J. Niewodniczanski and J. Mosc...
Annapurna Middle Peak Ascent and Tragedy. Expedition leader Ludwig Greissl, Udo Böning and Heinz Oberrauch on October 3 took ten hours to climb from their 23,300-foot Camp V to the untrodden middle peak of Annapurna (8064 meters, 26,457 feet). Obe...