Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Siguniang

Siguniang. After leaving Japan on July 5, we got to Base Camp on July 12 at 14,750 feet southwest of Siguniang despite bad weather. We established Camp I at 17,050 feet on July 16. On July 25 we climbed a couloir and established Camp II at 18,875 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Various Activity

Aguja Guillaumet, Various Activity. The Via Amy (65° 4, 300m), which is the rightmost couloir on the east face of Aguja Guillaumet, saw countless repeats. Among those recorded were: FranzKanger and Michael Lunden (Austria) in late November, 2000; ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountains and Memsahibs

Mountains and Memsahibs, by members of the Abinger Himalayan Expedition, 1956. Joyce Dunsheath: Leader; Hilda Reid: Food and Medicine; Eileen Gregory: Climbing Leader; Frances Delany: Geologist. Foreword by Mrs. Ranjit S. Pandit, High Commissioner...


Book Reviews AAJ
Gentle Expeditions: A Guide to Ethical Mountain Adventure

Gentle Expeditions : A Guide to Ethical Mountain Adventure. Bob McConnell. AAC Press: Golden Colorado, 1996. 117 pages. $10.00.These temple-destroyers, devotees of raging consumerism, seem to have a perfect contempt for Nature, and, instead of lif...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger, Attempt on a New Route

Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger, attempt on a new route. In 2003 German climbers, Steffen Laetsch, Jens and Michael Richter, and I from Dresden and Freital made an attempt at a new route on the 2,300m Apostelens Tommelfinger above the Lin...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Weather, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 31 at 1855, Exum Guide Jim Williams called via cell phone from the Lower Saddle stating that he could hear yells for help coming from the area by the “Eye of the Needle....


Notes AAJ
Mt. Etna

Mt. Etna. This Sicilian peak is the highest volcano in Europe, 10,758 ft. The Torre de Filosofo is a Roman structure 1188 ft. below the summit, the latter attainable in 7-8 hours from the village of Nicolosi. The mountain is 18 miles N.W. of Catan...


Feature Article AAJ
From Russia, With Luck

IT WAS the best of trips and the worst of trips. Mountains were climbed, wondrous sights viewed, unique experiences had and new acquaintances made. But that was only one side of it. For there were exasperations, setbacks and misunderstandings, har...

| Keywords
| Published 1978 | Author Rick Sylvester


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Ice, Washington, Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier

FALLING ICEWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz GlacierOn July 5 Jim Curnutt (46), was hit in the thigh by icefall while ascending the Kautz Glacier Route, sustaining a serious leg injury. Curnutt’s teammates used a cell phone to notify the NPS and lo...


Feature Article AAJ
To Thalay with Love

To Thalay With LoveThrough the shale band on Thalay Sagar ’s north faceby Andrew LindbladeI woke from a dream like a frightened child, startled, thinking I was safely home. The skit- ter-scatter of falling ice on the ledge brought me back to reali...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Oubliette (First Ascent)

Mt. Oubliette (10,100 Feet) (First Ascent)This peak of the Ramparts in Tonquin Valley was ascended for the first time July 27th, 1932, by Max M. Strumia and William R. Hainsworth accompanied by the Swiss guide Hans Fuhrer. Leaving Memorial Cabin o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura Regions

San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura regions. The Valle del Cura is an interesting glacial valley, with many summits along the Chile border. I went there in February with Argentine Santiago Rocha and Pole Parys Liesicki, a resident of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Red Wall

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Red WallLate in the afternoon of May 13, D. Frank and his partner M. Nagem (45) were attempting a rock climb (route unknown) on the Red Wall. Frank was an experienced...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The only area to see action from the D.M.C. last summer was the Tetons. On September 2, Jack Breitenbach and Barry Corbet did the Durrance Ridge of Symmetry Spire as a warm-up, then met Wayne Hamilton of Dartmouth an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya

Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya. As a result of glowing reports of the climbing potential brought back by the British Museum Expedition to the Cordillera Carabaya in 1959 (A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, pp. 145-146.), we also decided to visit this area of s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Weather, Exposure, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Longs Peak

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, EXPOSURE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Longs PeakOn January 14 at 0900, Mark Swinnerton (34) and Danny Pyatt (34) passed by rangers Kurt Oliver and Jim Detterline at the Chasm Meadows Cabin below the East F...


Feature Article AAJ
South Ridge of Ama Dablam

South Ridge of Ama DablamSue GillerWHEN WOMEN are on a mountain, it always snows.” This was not the weather forecast we had hoped to hear. With Camp III still not reached, and with the afternoon weather becoming worse and worse with each passing d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Korean Winter Attempt

Everest, Korean Winter Attempts. Two Korean expeditions unsuccessfully attempted to climb Everest in the winter of 1991-2. Led by Kim Kwang-Jin, seventeen climbers tried to climb the south pillar, getting to 8700 meters on December 14. Four other ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Labuche Kang Reconnaissance, 1986

Labuche Kang Reconnaissance, 1986. From September 1 to October 5, 1986, a joint Chinese-Japanese expedition made a reconnaissance of Labuche Kang (7367 meters, 24,170 feet). The peak lies between Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma. The Chinese were Cheng T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Tromsø Region, Kvaloya Island, Blamannen, Frost

Kvaloya Island, Blamannen, Frost. From February 21-26, 2007 Anne Grete Nebell and I climbed a new route on the north face of Blamannen, near Tromso. The face is steep, with a big-wall feel, though it is no more than 400m high. We spent six days cl...