Siguniang. After leaving Japan on July 5, we got to Base Camp on July 12 at 14,750 feet southwest of Siguniang despite bad weather. We established Camp I at 17,050 feet on July 16. On July 25 we climbed a couloir and established Camp II at 18,875 ...
Aguja Guillaumet, Various Activity. The Via Amy (65° 4, 300m), which is the rightmost couloir on the east face of Aguja Guillaumet, saw countless repeats. Among those recorded were: FranzKanger and Michael Lunden (Austria) in late November, 2000; ...
Mountains and Memsahibs, by members of the Abinger Himalayan Expedition, 1956. Joyce Dunsheath: Leader; Hilda Reid: Food and Medicine; Eileen Gregory: Climbing Leader; Frances Delany: Geologist. Foreword by Mrs. Ranjit S. Pandit, High Commissioner...
Gentle Expeditions : A Guide to Ethical Mountain Adventure. Bob McConnell. AAC Press: Golden Colorado, 1996. 117 pages. $10.00.These temple-destroyers, devotees of raging consumerism, seem to have a perfect contempt for Nature, and, instead of lif...
Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger, attempt on a new route. In 2003 German climbers, Steffen Laetsch, Jens and Michael Richter, and I from Dresden and Freital made an attempt at a new route on the 2,300m Apostelens Tommelfinger above the Lin...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 31 at 1855, Exum Guide Jim Williams called via cell phone from the Lower Saddle stating that he could hear yells for help coming from the area by the “Eye of the Needle....
Mt. Etna. This Sicilian peak is the highest volcano in Europe, 10,758 ft. The Torre de Filosofo is a Roman structure 1188 ft. below the summit, the latter attainable in 7-8 hours from the village of Nicolosi. The mountain is 18 miles N.W. of Catan...
IT WAS the best of trips and the worst of trips. Mountains were climbed, wondrous sights viewed, unique experiences had and new acquaintances made. But that was only one side of it. For there were exasperations, setbacks and misunderstandings, har...
FALLING ICEWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz GlacierOn July 5 Jim Curnutt (46), was hit in the thigh by icefall while ascending the Kautz Glacier Route, sustaining a serious leg injury. Curnutt’s teammates used a cell phone to notify the NPS and lo...
To Thalay With LoveThrough the shale band on Thalay Sagar ’s north faceby Andrew LindbladeI woke from a dream like a frightened child, startled, thinking I was safely home. The skit- ter-scatter of falling ice on the ledge brought me back to reali...
Mt. Oubliette (10,100 Feet) (First Ascent)This peak of the Ramparts in Tonquin Valley was ascended for the first time July 27th, 1932, by Max M. Strumia and William R. Hainsworth accompanied by the Swiss guide Hans Fuhrer. Leaving Memorial Cabin o...
San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura regions. The Valle del Cura is an interesting glacial valley, with many summits along the Chile border. I went there in February with Argentine Santiago Rocha and Pole Parys Liesicki, a resident of ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Red WallLate in the afternoon of May 13, D. Frank and his partner M. Nagem (45) were attempting a rock climb (route unknown) on the Red Wall. Frank was an experienced...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The only area to see action from the D.M.C. last summer was the Tetons. On September 2, Jack Breitenbach and Barry Corbet did the Durrance Ridge of Symmetry Spire as a warm-up, then met Wayne Hamilton of Dartmouth an...
Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya. As a result of glowing reports of the climbing potential brought back by the British Museum Expedition to the Cordillera Carabaya in 1959 (A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, pp. 145-146.), we also decided to visit this area of s...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, EXPOSURE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Longs PeakOn January 14 at 0900, Mark Swinnerton (34) and Danny Pyatt (34) passed by rangers Kurt Oliver and Jim Detterline at the Chasm Meadows Cabin below the East F...
South Ridge of Ama DablamSue GillerWHEN WOMEN are on a mountain, it always snows.” This was not the weather forecast we had hoped to hear. With Camp III still not reached, and with the afternoon weather becoming worse and worse with each passing d...
Everest, Korean Winter Attempts. Two Korean expeditions unsuccessfully attempted to climb Everest in the winter of 1991-2. Led by Kim Kwang-Jin, seventeen climbers tried to climb the south pillar, getting to 8700 meters on December 14. Four other ...
Labuche Kang Reconnaissance, 1986. From September 1 to October 5, 1986, a joint Chinese-Japanese expedition made a reconnaissance of Labuche Kang (7367 meters, 24,170 feet). The peak lies between Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma. The Chinese were Cheng T...
Kvaloya Island, Blamannen, Frost. From February 21-26, 2007 Anne Grete Nebell and I climbed a new route on the north face of Blamannen, near Tromso. The face is steep, with a big-wall feel, though it is no more than 400m high. We spent six days cl...