“Tombstone” and “Down Tower,” Chuska Mountains. Cameron Burns has written an article on the ascent of two desert towers in the Chuska Mountains, which appears earlier in this Journal.
Yukon Territory, Mt. St. Elias. On 31 July an eight-man party was descending Newton headwall below Russel col and had 700 feet left to drop to glacier. Avalanches had been active in past few days and made great changes in terrain. Descent was down...
New Ascents in Central Wind River Range. In July, Bill Dougall, Mark Haun, Monte Haun, Bob Bell, Jon Hisey and I spent eight days in the Island Lake—Titcomb Lakes area and completed eleven ascents between electrical storms. Of major interest to fu...
SCALDED BY BOILING WATEBBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo GroupOn August 4, 1990, C.F. and B.F. were cooking in camp above Conrad Kain Hut when a pot of boiling water was knocked off a Svea stove and over the boots of C.F. Second- degre...
Charakusa Valley, Various Ascents. Conrad Anker, Peter Croft, and Galen Rowell spent the month of July climbing five rock spires in the Charakusa Valley east of Masherbrum above Hushe. The longest climb of the expedition was Conrad and Peter’s 23-...
INADEQUATE FOOD, NO WORKING STOVESAlaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin RidgeOn June 11, two climbers (38 and 40) attempting the Cassin Ridge requested a rescue when they ran out of food and water and had no working stoves. They called on FRS and reporte...
Between August 15 and September 26, a team of six led by me visited the remote Shimshal valley. We successfully made the first ascents of both the north and south summits of Yazghil Sar, an isolated snow-and-ice peak which lies between the Yukshin...
British Geological Expedition. Charles P. Booth and A. J. Ravenscroft made geological and glaciological studies from the end of May to mid-September in the southern Peruvian Andes. They explored the Cusipata, Tantamco, Ausangate, Nudo Huaynacapac,...
Manaslu Attempt. We were Americans Andy Lapkass, Peter Nichols, Chris Treese, Jim McEachem, Ken Thorp, Steve and Ron Matous and Pete Athans, Britons Paul Moores, Alan Burgess and I, although I live in the United States, and Sherpas Dawa Nuru and P...
Polish Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, 1973. A party of the Polish Mountaineering Club was led by Ryszard Szafirski, accompanied by his wife Aleksandra, Walenty Fiut, Piotr Malinowski, Waclaw Otreba, Marian Pawlak, Krzysztof Szafranski and Bogdan...
A.A.C., New England Section. The New England Section started 1983 invigorated by the highly successful annual dinner in December 1982. The teamwork involved in producing that affair did a great deal to bring many of us together, while our share of...
Deaths in 2002. Japanese Saito Kenji died from AMS on Spantik while returning after scaling the 7,027m peak. He was brought down to camp III in critical condition but soon died. Captain Mohammad Iqbal, member of Pak-China K2 Expedition had a fatal...
Tripura Hiunchuli IV (Hanging Glacier Peak IV), Kanjiroba Himal. After flying to Baglung, an international group led by Doug Scott began a long approach on September 30. They trekked via Beni, the Myagdi Khola, Darbanh, Dhorpatan, the Ghustang Kho...
Peaks in Hidden Valley, Dhaulagiri Himal. Our small group, Josef Kurz, Kurt Niedermayr, Hermann Ponn, Hans Richter, Gerhard Wendl and I, along with Rinchen Lama from Kathmandu, managed to make the following nine first ascents above Hidden Valley, ...
A.M.C. White Mountain Guide. Sixteenth Edition. Published by the Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy St., Boston, Mass., 1960. 494 pages, 17 maps. $4.50.This sixteenth edition of a guidebook first published in 1907 has been completely revised since t...
Alaskan Glacier Expedition 1935Many of the glaciers of the Alaskan coast were visited during the summer of 1935 by an expedition in charge of Prof. Wm. S. Cooper of the University of Minnesota and the writer, with Russell Dow and Robert Stix of Da...
Matternaught Peak, Taminah Arête, Tetons. On August 29, Kent Lugbill and Jim Tate climbed an important new route, the prominent south ridge of this peak in Avalanche Canyon. This long and spectacular arête is seen in profile from Lake Taminah. Sta...
INADEQUATE BELAY, INATTENTION, FALL ON ROCK Idaho, City of Rocks, Rabbit RockOn Friday, August 7, 1992, at 1300, Andrew (33) and Glenda Lainias (34) were climbing a route called “Sudden Pleasure.” Andrew Lainias had reached the top of the climb an...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. The Central Rockies Section was a sponsor of the Ouray Ice Festival 2000, held on January 14-16. We donated $300 to the Ice Park for their annual efforts of ice farming, safety, and maintenance. The crowd seemed as la...
Nyanchhen Thanglha Central Peak. Dr. Erika Prokosch, Ursula Bauer, Dr. Erich Bosina, Anna Szalay, Dr. Franz Herzog, Teodor Fritsche, Herwig Schnutt, Gunther and Werner Hönlinger, Fridl Widder, Karl Wuttke and I as leader crossed from Nepal into Ti...