Le Main de Fatima, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Grant Farquar, Louise Thomas and Mike “Twid” Turner established the 450-meter Grains of Time (British E4 5c) on the north face of the north tower of Suri Tondo in January...
Jirishanca, East Ridge. The east ridge of Jirishanca was first attempted unsuccessfully by Frenchmen Stéphane Dewèze, Antoine Noury and Peruvian Rodrigo Callupe. The two Frenchmen made a second attempt. After six days on the ridge, on steep, soft ...
Ahab, 1986. Ronald Van Horssen, Steve Drake and I climbed the striking pillar on the lower southwest face of Ahab in August 1986. We ascended the striking pillar, which has several spectacular towers, and ends on the south summit of Ahab (II, 5.8)...
El Mocho, Aguja Poincenot and Cerro Torre, 1991-2. Steve Gerberding and I arrived at Campo Bridwell in the Torre valley on November 22, 1991. That same day, we made two carries, set up camp and finally got to sleep at three A.M. the following morn...
Cordillera Real, Huayna Potosí Group. The Chileans Sergio Alvarado and Oscar González made the second ascent of Cunatin Coto (18,280 feet) on September 5, 1955.
Mount Logan, Second Ascent of HubSew Ridge. Originally we thought our route unclimbed, but reading after the climb showed that Vin Hoeman and Will Harrison had ascended this ridge. Adam Kerner, Bob Newman, Roger Robinson, Geraldine Grady, Rick Alb...
Cwalqn, Bitterroot Range. Stephen Porcella has written an article entitled Minimum Impact” about a climb which he and Bruce Anderson made in the Bitterroot Mountains of Montana, which appears earlier in this Journal.
Tupopdan. Our expedition made the first ascent of Tupopdan (or Tlipobdan) in the Markhun valley of the Karun Koh region of the northern Karakoram. We were Andy Cave, Tom Richardson, John Stevenson, Joe Simpson and I as leader. We established Base ...
Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Cambridge (England) Andean Expedition, under the leadership of John H. Longland and Simon G. McH. Clark, was in the Cordillera Vilcabamba from mid-June to mid-August. Knowing from the British and American part...
Api, Northwest Ridge. An expedition of five South Koreans was led by Lee Thea-Yeon. On May 27, Son Dong-Su, Pemba Tshering Sherpa and Pasang Gyalbo Sherpa completed the fifth ascent of Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet), climbing the northwest ridge.E...
Fremont and Sacajawea, Southwest Faces, Wind River Range. In mid-August, Chris Landry and I climbed routes on the southwest faces of Fremont and Sacajawea, which rise from the upper Titcomb Lake. We had sun, but cold winds and intermittent snow an...
Xuelian Feng, Xinjiang. A Japanese expedition of the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Tsutomu Ogawa. They made the first ascent of the south summit (6527 meters, 21,414 feet) of Xuelian Feng but could not get to the main (north...
Matkash, Hindu Raj. Four climbers from Trieste, Walter Mejak, Bianca Di Beaco, Fioretta Tarlao and Fabio Benedetti climbed above Mastuj and the Yarkuhn valley. They made the difficult ascent of a peak of about 6000 meters (19,685 feet) above the M...
Ribbon Falls, East Portal. Hoping to succeed by sheer weight of numbers, John Evans, Dick Long, Allen Steck and I, aided by a small band of porters transported our tonnage to the Ribbon Falls amphitheater late in June. We brought food, climbing eq...
Climbs in the Monolith-Dogtooth Cirque, Wind River Range. Intrigued by scant glimpses caught of the Monolith-Dogtooth cirque on a stormy day last summer, Angus Thuermer and I swore to return to attempt some of the elegant lines that caught our eye...
Shisha Pangma, Central Summit. On September 22, Matej Kranjc, leader, Urban Golob, Andrej Karnicar and Iztok Tomazin left Kathmandu for Tibet, hoping to climb the classical route and then ski down the same way. On October 10, Kranjc got to the cen...
Hallett Peak, Right Wall of Third Buttress. Butch Van Tongeren and I started our new route on July 30 about 300 feet right of the regular Northcutt-Carter route. The first pitch ascends a ramp from left to right to a belay on a small ledge below a...
Columbia Finger, Southeast Face. On September 13, Jan Mostowski and I did what we believe to be a first ascent of the southeast face of Columbia Finger. From the base of the south buttress about 150 feet to the right of the beginning of a prominen...
Chopicalqui and Other Peaks. Claude Ferrand, Marc Hannisberg, André Huet, Arlette Mollaret, Elisée Nicolas and I made the following ascents: Pisco (18,898 feet) on June 30 and Yanapaccha (17,914 feet) on July 10. From July 2 to 6 Mlle Nicolas and ...
K6. Germans from Berlin led by Peter Lipp had to give up their attempt to climb difficult K6 (23,890 feet) from the Kondus Glacier on the east because of bad weather after establishing three camps, the highest at nearly 22,000 feet. They were equa...