The Incinerator, Rock Creek Area, Stun Them With Science. This formation—resembling a sawdust incinerator in lumber mills—lies above and slightly east of Rock Creek Wall. The easiest approach is to climb a route on Rock Creek Wall then walk up to ...
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Mt. Baldy. Early in the morning of December 14, James Northrup (19) and two male companions attempted to climb Mt. Baldy. Inasmuch as the lift was not yet in operation, the group decided to hike up the lift line ...
EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn March 28, 1980, David T. Kays (23) signed out in the Visitor Center to solo climb The Nose (5.9 A-3, Grade VI, Y.D.S.) on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. Kays lis...
P 6148, P 6206, P 6313, P 6339, P 6650, P 6985, P 7080, P 7111, P 7234, P7327, P 7500, P 7689, Chugach Mountains. On July 16, I was flown into the Tana River landing strip by Bob Jacobs for a 24-day solo climbing trip. I spent the first six days b...
Pyramid Peak, North Face. On March 29, James Ruch and I completed the first ascent of Pyramid Peak’s north face. The climbing was almost entirely on good ice and snow with occasional mixed sections. In surmounting the difficult band via an ice rib...
FALL ON ICE, UNROPEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Johnston CanyonOn February 13, L.R. (26) and her boyfriend (L.) were doing some ice climbing at the upper falls in Johnston Canyon, a popular area of one pitch top-ropeable ice climbs. L.R. unclipp...
Wind River Mountains, Mt. Osborn, Verloren. In early July Lander climber Kirk Billings and I made the first ascent of a prominent 1,200' wall on an east-facing buttress of Mt. Osborn in the northern Wind River Mountains. Camping at the north end o...
Kumbharkarna (Jannu), Southwest Spur. The Nepalese name for what has long been called “Jannu” is Kumbhakarna, the name used by the inhabitants of the high valleys, who have never heard the name “Jannu.” (Kumbhakarna is now the official name. —Edit...
Jotunheimen. Between June 27 and July 9 John Humphreys, accompanied by Richard Buel and James Rogers, of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, enjoyed an unusual spell of superb weather in the Hurrungane and Smörstabbtind groups of the Western Jotunhei...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIP- MENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, Granite MountainOn May 18, 1984, Donald Archibald and Ronald Aronoff (37) had scaled Granite Mountain, leaving the trail head parking lot about 1130. On the...
Gimli, Valhalla Group, 1988. On August 12, 1988, Cliff Leight, Peter Jewett, Dan Waters and I climbed a new line on Gimli on the right edge of the northwest buttress. The rock is excellent quartzite with incut holds on a steep and exposed comer (I...
Colorado: (3) Rocky Mountain National Park. On 9 July 1950 a party of three inexperienced youths, names unknown, was climbing a small rocky face, unroped. One of them pulled loose a large rock. He fell 10 or 15 feet, and rolled several hundred fee...
Cerro Torre, El Mocho, Torre Innominata. Cerro Torre repulsed all attempts until January 28 when numerous parties reached the summit via the Maestri compressor route. This included Andy DeKlerk and Julie Brugger of Seattle. Previously, they had re...
San Lorenzo, first winter ascent. In July Chilean andinistas Pablo Besser, Camilo Rada, and Manuel Bugueño completed the first winter ascent, by the Agostini Route, of Monte San Lorenzo (3,706m), Patagonia’s second-highest summit, in Chile’s XI Re...
Cordillera Blanca. A Peruvian group left Huaraz on August 3 to spend the night at Camp Ishinca at 16,400 feet. The next day they climbed high on Palcaraju (19,750 feet), but did not reach the summit. The group, which included four women, were as f...
Mount Logan. From June 2 to 9 the 1974 Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study (HAPS) Project Support Team climbed the standard King Col route to the Logan High Camp at 17,600 feet. We consisted of Jürg and Liz Hofer, leaders, Uldis Auders, Chi...
“Tombstone” and “Down Tower,” Chuska Mountains. Cameron Burns has written an article on the ascent of two desert towers in the Chuska Mountains, which appears earlier in this Journal.
Yukon Territory, Mt. St. Elias. On 31 July an eight-man party was descending Newton headwall below Russel col and had 700 feet left to drop to glacier. Avalanches had been active in past few days and made great changes in terrain. Descent was down...
New Ascents in Central Wind River Range. In July, Bill Dougall, Mark Haun, Monte Haun, Bob Bell, Jon Hisey and I spent eight days in the Island Lake—Titcomb Lakes area and completed eleven ascents between electrical storms. Of major interest to fu...
SCALDED BY BOILING WATEBBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo GroupOn August 4, 1990, C.F. and B.F. were cooking in camp above Conrad Kain Hut when a pot of boiling water was knocked off a Svea stove and over the boots of C.F. Second- degre...