St. Elias Attempts. Three expeditions attempted to climb the southwest ridge of St. Elias, but none of them could reach the summit. In April, four climbers led by Tom Nickerson unsuccessfully made the attempt. They were followed on the same route ...

Cerro Torre, Southeast Ridge, attempt by fair means. In early February 2007 Josh Wharton and I emptied our bank accounts and traveled south. Our goal was to climb the Southeast Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre in the best style we could ima...

Iowa Mountaineers. In 1982 our membership exceeded 1000, scattered over some 35 states. Many of the courses and mountain camps again were offered for two hours of credit by the University of Iowa. Under Jim and John Ebert’s instruction, 85 members...

Hainabrakk East Tower, First Ascent. The married couples of Steve Schneider and Heather Baer, and Brian McCray and Roxanna Brock made the first ascent of Hainabrakk East Tower (ca. 19,024') from June 25-July 27 via the route For Better or for Wors...

Thamserku Attempts, 1988 and 1989. In the winter of 1988, Dr. Ed Farrar, Canadian Dan Culver and I attempted the second ascent of the west ridge of Thamserku. Although previous sightings and photos had shown a frozen snow arête leading to the summ...

Notchtop Mountain, East Face, Religion. Australian Keith Bell and I established this long excellent free climb on the highest part of the face in late August, 1973. We began (with a jump) in the left-most of three prominent roofed right-facing dih...

Everest, South-Col Post-Monsoon Attempts. Aside from the attempts noted separately, there were a number of expeditions on the route via the South Col that did not succeed in reaching the main summit. A primarily French expedition led by Denis Pivo...

FALL ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED,EXCEEDED ABILITIES, FATIGUE Washington, Mount ShuksanMidway through the Fisher Chimneys about 2000 the evening of July 3, 1988, five of the members of our party of eight were descending steep snow ...

Colorado Mountain Club. In May Carl Blaurock led a party of nine members into the “Four Corners Country” (Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah) and to the eastern Utah Indian reservations and national monuments. R. Murchison and Mrs. Murchison ...

Cerro La Paloma, Central Andes. La Paloma (4930 meters, 16,175 feet) has become perhaps the only Chilean mountain to have been ascended by all its possible angles. American Allen Steck and O. Espinoza, R. Gamboa and I, from Santiago, opened the la...

AVALANCHE, WEATHERWashington, Dragontail PeakEric Simmonson (22) and his partner (22) left the parking lot at Colchuck Lake early on the morning of November 3 to climb Dragontail’s north face in a day. The pair climbed up high on the route but dec...

Trango Towers Attempts. Canadians Jim Brennan and Greg Foweraker and Americans Dan Cauthom, Greg Collum, Matt Kerns, Pat McNerthney and Mark Wilford and I established Base Camp on the Trango Glacier in late May. Like other expeditions, we had diff...

Trisul. The 1975 Seattle Garhwal-Himalaya Expedition was led by Michael Clarke; other members were Jan Balut, David Hambly, Ray Jewell, Carl Moore, Gordon Thomas and I. We traveled by bus through the gorges of the Alaknanda to Lata. There we met o...

P 12,380. This peak lies between Hunter and McKinley. On May 11, after two previous attempts and a barrage of rotten weather, Chuck Sink, Mal Ulrich and I ascended a large couloir on P 12,380’s south face and joined the southwest ridge at a col. S...

Albert Icefield Area. A University of Wisconsin party visited this remote area for 2½ weeks in August. From a base camp at the west edge of the Albert Icefield complex, we made ten first ascents of peaks between 8000 and 10,000 feet in height. Mem...

INADEQUATE FOOD AND FUEL, FAILURE TO TURN RACK,INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 1, Mitch Ward and Randy Adrian’s “Ice Skids” Expedition departed from Talkeetna to the north side of Denali National Park. They were dropped off by K-2 Aviati...

Tangi Ragi Tau South (Pahamlahaka) ascents and possible new route. Although they were unable to make any serious attempt on their main objective, the North Pillar/Face of Teng Kang Poche, a group of young French climbers were able to achieve sever...

Fitz Roy, Franco-Argentine Route, Second Solo Ascent. It was reported that Christoph Hainz ascended this route on December 24. From the Brecha de los Italianos he climbed the 650-meter route to the summit and back in nine hours using none of the f...

Mount Adams, East Face Direct via Victory Ridge. On the weekend of July 7 Don Gordon and I camped on the north side of the mountain, hoping to complete one of the few remaining unclimbed routes—a direct ascent of the east face in line with the sum...

Mount Colchuck, North Side Routes. Several routes have been done on this increasingly popular peak. In September 1969, Manuel Gonzalez and Don Williamson followed a prominent ledge system diagonaling up the face of the eastern side of the northeas...