Ama Dablam, Danish Ascent. Our team of six Danes, led by Caspar Sutton, climbed Ama Dablam by the south ridge. We established Base Camp on October 1 at 4900 meters in the upper Mingbo valley. All members carried to Advance Base at 5700 meters. Fro...
FALL ON ROCK, FRIEND PULLED OUTWashington, Peshastin PinnaclesOn November 4, 1985, John Virnig (21) was climbing Lightning Crack on Peshastin Pinnacles when he took a leader fall on a friction move. A Friend he had placed for protection came out, ...
FALL ON ROCK—HANDHOLD BROKE OFFKentucky and Tennesse, Big South Fork National River ft Recreation AreaShelly Buchanan (49) of Norris, Tennesse, was bouldering on the Twin Arches formation on the afternoon of November 11th when a handhold broke off...
Aguja CAT, Mate Humo. This obscure tower, located at the northern end of the Cerro Torre group between Aguja Cuatro Dedos and Cerro Domo Blanco, saw a new route by Austrians Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz. Their line, which they completed in la...
Qanqan Group, Cordillera Urubamba. Dennis Kemp, my wife Mickie and I ascended some minor peaks above Base Camp at 15,000 feet in the Quebrada Qanqan. We numbered the peaks from left to right. We made the following climbs: N°7 (16,000 feet) on Augu...
Burphu Dhura South Peak, Ascent. The IMF expedition to the virgin peak of Bhurphu Dhura (6210m) in Kumaon was led by Lt. Commander Satyabrata Dam of the Indian Navy and consisted of six members. The team left Delhi on September 12 and arrived at M...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE BELAY New Hampshire, White Horse LedgeOn July 11, 1987, Jim Murray (30) was on the 5.7 variation of Standard on White Horse Ledge when he fell just after clipping into a bolt there. He dropped six mete...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYS, AND INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksWe received twelve reports from this climbing area for the year 2006.Of the nine falling accidents, eight occurred while leading and three inv...
Dhaulagiri, West Face. Our aim was to make the first ascent of the giant, 14,750-foot-high, west face of Dhaulagiri. We were 15 Czechoslovak climbers and the Italian Gian Luigi Visintin. We used no oxygen equipment and had no high-altitude porters...
Pinnacles. Some of the most enjoyable climbing in the Tetons is to be found on the various pinnacles in the range. Only after the efforts of the past summer can it be definitely stated that all the pinnacles encircling the Lake of the Crags have b...
Hubbard. American Peter Videler, and Netherlanders Imke Grijpma, Bart van der Meulen and Martine de Bruyne climbed Hubbard via the Cathedral Glacier from July 4 to 21.Andrew Lawrence, Kluane National Park Reserve
WEATHER, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—TENT VS. SNOW CAVE Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 13, 1989, at 0900, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., guide Curt Hewitt (38) was blown from his camp near 5000 meters on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley while in his te...
DONALD D. MCINTYRE1946-1997Those of us who were friends and family of Don McIntyre were shocked and profoundly saddened by the news that he suffered a fatal fall into a crevasse while descending from the summit of Mt. Ranier on July 29. Don and hi...
K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Alan Rouse, leader, John Barry, Alan and Adrian Burgess, Phil Burke, Brian Hall, John Porter and Dave Wilkinson, with Jim Hargreaves, Base-Camp manager, Dr. Bev Holt and Jim Curran, film mak...
Lichtenberg Mountain, West Face. During a late summer hike north of Stevens Pass, my son Nik and I looked up at the unclimbed west face of Lichtenberg Mountain. From Stevens Pass, it is seen on the horizon as a sharp rock spire. It was already noo...
Kunyang Chhish, Hispar. In June and July Julian Fisher, Mark Lowe, Keith Milne, Mike Sheldrake and I made the second ascent of Kunyang Chhish (7852 meters, 25,761 feet). The mountain was climbed in 1971 by Poles via its south ridge. There had also...
Neverseen Tower, attempts in 1999 and 2001. After a four-day trek from Karpat in the Miyar Valley, Fidel Casablancas, Enric Nadal, and I established base camp on September 13, 1999 at 4650m on the moraine of the Tawa Glacier, two hours walk from t...
Kagmara Attempt. Briton Glen Rowley and a companion attempted to climb Kagmara (5960 meters, 19,554 feet) by its north face. They reached 5500 meters on November 12.Elizabeth Hawley
Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador. Bob Rachowiecki. Bradt Enterprises, Cambridge, 1984. 160 pages, 9 black and white illustrations, 21 sketch maps, color map. $10.95.
Romantic Switzerland, by Walter Schmid. 8vo., 50 pages, including 20 color plates from old prints. Berne: Hallwag, 1952. Price, Sw. Fr. 4.This fascinating little book, issued in English edition, presents Switzerland as mirrored in the literature a...