Nilgiri North Attempt. Scots Michael Fowkes and Gunson failed on Nilgiri North’s southeast ridge. Fowkes developed high-altitude sickness and Gunson got to 20,200 feet alone on September 28.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

St. Elias, East Ridge Attempt. On June 2, 1970, Loren Adkins, Gary Ullin, John Neal and I left Yakutat for an attempt on the east ridge of St. Elias. We flew to an abandoned airstrip at 500 feet on the west side of the mountain and from there walk...

In late April 2006 Dustin Schaad and I were dropped by ski plane near Glacier Fork [a.k.a. The Pitchfork Glacier, which drains to the Glacier Fork of the Tlikakila River]. Our pilot, Doug Brewer, knew of no one being flown into this spot before. O...

BRIEFLY NOTED (JT: John Thackray; DS: David Stevenson)Bernina and Bregaglia, Selected Climbs. Lindsay Griffin. Alpine Club Guide Books. 480 pages, 42 route photos, 74 diagrams. £18.50 (Mail order from Cordee, 3a De Montfort St., Leicester LE1 7HD,...

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1965. We now have over 200 members, and with an increase in mountaineering interest, the club is enjoying continued growth. In addition to the usual year-round training at De...

Yerupajá, First Completely Peruvian Ascent. On July 8 Rodrigo Callupe, Victorino Basilio, Félix Vicencio, Magno Camones, Alberto Simangas and Mario Mazuelos reached the summit of Yerupajá, the first completely Peruvian group to do so, although the...

HENRY SHERMAN ADAMS 1864-1948Henry S. Adams, one of the very early members of the American Alpine Club (elected in 1909), died last summer at the age of 84, at Hammonasset, Conn., of a heart attack suffered while he was in swimming.Born in Wethers...

Kunatinkuta. On September 11, Giuseppe Ferrari and I drove to the Abra de Zongo that divides Huayna Potosí from Kunatinkuta. From Base Camp in the high valley just below the west glacier, we climbed the next morning to the crevassed west wall and ...

Huascarán. The first Russian ascent of Huascarán was made on August 24, 1970 by Vladimir Kanunienko and Drs. Victor Gurmeniuk and Slava Romanoff. In 1972 a number of ascents were made. On July 12 Ned Coyl, Don Glantz, Mike Huitt, Mike Kelsey, Keit...

First Ascent of Red Sentinel. The Red Sentinel, a very spectacular 200-ft. spire rising abruptly on the ridge which joins the W. wall of Disappointment Peak, was scaled for the first time in July 1950 by Mike Brewer, Dick Pownall, Bob Merriam and ...

Ama Dablam, Danish Ascent. Our team of six Danes, led by Caspar Sutton, climbed Ama Dablam by the south ridge. We established Base Camp on October 1 at 4900 meters in the upper Mingbo valley. All members carried to Advance Base at 5700 meters. Fro...

FALL ON ROCK, FRIEND PULLED OUTWashington, Peshastin PinnaclesOn November 4, 1985, John Virnig (21) was climbing Lightning Crack on Peshastin Pinnacles when he took a leader fall on a friction move. A Friend he had placed for protection came out, ...

FALL ON ROCK—HANDHOLD BROKE OFFKentucky and Tennesse, Big South Fork National River ft Recreation AreaShelly Buchanan (49) of Norris, Tennesse, was bouldering on the Twin Arches formation on the afternoon of November 11th when a handhold broke off...

Aguja CAT, Mate Humo. This obscure tower, located at the northern end of the Cerro Torre group between Aguja Cuatro Dedos and Cerro Domo Blanco, saw a new route by Austrians Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz. Their line, which they completed in la...

Qanqan Group, Cordillera Urubamba. Dennis Kemp, my wife Mickie and I ascended some minor peaks above Base Camp at 15,000 feet in the Quebrada Qanqan. We numbered the peaks from left to right. We made the following climbs: N°7 (16,000 feet) on Augu...

Burphu Dhura South Peak, Ascent. The IMF expedition to the virgin peak of Bhurphu Dhura (6210m) in Kumaon was led by Lt. Commander Satyabrata Dam of the Indian Navy and consisted of six members. The team left Delhi on September 12 and arrived at M...

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE BELAY New Hampshire, White Horse LedgeOn July 11, 1987, Jim Murray (30) was on the 5.7 variation of Standard on White Horse Ledge when he fell just after clipping into a bolt there. He dropped six mete...

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYS, AND INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksWe received twelve reports from this climbing area for the year 2006.Of the nine falling accidents, eight occurred while leading and three inv...

Dhaulagiri, West Face. Our aim was to make the first ascent of the giant, 14,750-foot-high, west face of Dhaulagiri. We were 15 Czechoslovak climbers and the Italian Gian Luigi Visintin. We used no oxygen equipment and had no high-altitude porters...

Pinnacles. Some of the most enjoyable climbing in the Tetons is to be found on the various pinnacles in the range. Only after the efforts of the past summer can it be definitely stated that all the pinnacles encircling the Lake of the Crags have b...