Club Activities AAJ
Alpenbock Climbing Club

Alpenbock Climbing Club. The year 1962 was a busy one for the Alpenbock Climbing Club, which is located in Salt Lake City, Utah. Close to home, late snows permitted several cross-country ski tours as late as May 30 in the Alta area, and considerab...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Selkirks, Mount Sir Donald, First Winter Ascent

Mount Sir Donald, First Winter Ascent. For a number of years I had in mind the first winter ascent of Mount Sir Donald. Donald Liska, Dave Beckstead, Alex Bertulis and I left the Illecillewat campground on March 19 and proceeded to the slopes just...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak

California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak. On September 2 Robert Elliott (33) and Nick Ellena (32) left their camp at Lake Ediza early in the morning. They planned to climb nearby Mt. Ritter (13,157 ft.) and Banner Peak (12,957 ft.). The pair soon di...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Oregon, Various Activity

Oregon, various activity. On Mt. Hood’s Illumination Rock, on April 24 Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson climbed a route that starts to the left of the south chamber on the south face of the southwest ridge. It follows a series of chimneys and crac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Zebak Hindu Kush

Yashek Valley. A scientific expedition was sent to the Yashek valley in the Zebak group of the northeastern Hindu Kush by the University of Gdansk, Poland. The leader was Krzysztof Petelski. They were in the region from July 22 until August 16. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna I

Annapurna I. Our expedition was composed of Gustav Harder, leader, Dr. Werner Müller-Esterl, Wolfgang Brög, Erika Heimrath, Klaus Harder, Thomas Hummler, Konrad Staltmayr and me. We left Pokhara on March 24 with 185 porters. After the difficult cr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone

Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone. Climbing.com and Alpinist.com reported that, in March, Fitz Cahall, James Q Martin, and Albert Newman made the first free ascent of the 1,600-vertical-foot Tooth Rock in Arizona’s remote Vermilion Cliffs. Mo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Rundle, Professor Falls

AVALANCHEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Rundle, Professor FallsOn March 23, a party of two was climbing Professor Falls (280 m. III WI4) and had just finished the technical lower pitches. They were walking roped together towards the last pitc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nepalese Mountain Guide School

Nepalese Mountain Guide School. The Alpine Federation of Yugoslavia and the Nepal Mountaineering Association have successfully begun the School of Mountain Guides. In the Marsyandi valley between Pisang and Braga at 10,000 feet a building for 40 t...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section held five meetings during 1963. President Carlton Fuller visited us early in January and contributed significantly in our business meeting. Jim Whittaker, Luther Jerstad, and Barry Bishop gave us a preview of t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North Attempt

Nilgiri North Attempt. Scots Michael Fowkes and Gunson failed on Nilgiri North’s southeast ridge. Fowkes developed high-altitude sickness and Gunson got to 20,200 feet alone on September 28.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias, East Ridge Attempt

St. Elias, East Ridge Attempt. On June 2, 1970, Loren Adkins, Gary Ullin, John Neal and I left Yakutat for an attempt on the east ridge of St. Elias. We flew to an abandoned airstrip at 500 feet on the west side of the mountain and from there walk...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
First Ascents and Descents Alaska, Neacola Mountains

In late April 2006 Dustin Schaad and I were dropped by ski plane near Glacier Fork [a.k.a. The Pitchfork Glacier, which drains to the Glacier Fork of the Tlikakila River]. Our pilot, Doug Brewer, knew of no one being flown into this spot before. O...

| Published 2006 | Author Daron Huck


Book Reviews AAJ
Bernina and Bregaglia, Selected Climbs

BRIEFLY NOTED (JT: John Thackray; DS: David Stevenson)Bernina and Bregaglia, Selected Climbs. Lindsay Griffin. Alpine Club Guide Books. 480 pages, 42 route photos, 74 diagrams. £18.50 (Mail order from Cordee, 3a De Montfort St., Leicester LE1 7HD,...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1965. We now have over 200 members, and with an increase in mountaineering interest, the club is enjoying continued growth. In addition to the usual year-round training at De...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá, First Completely Peruvian Ascent

Yerupajá, First Completely Peruvian Ascent. On July 8 Rodrigo Callupe, Victorino Basilio, Félix Vicencio, Magno Camones, Alberto Simangas and Mario Mazuelos reached the summit of Yerupajá, the first completely Peruvian group to do so, although the...


In Memoriam AAJ
Henry Sherman Adams, 1864-1948

HENRY SHERMAN ADAMS 1864-1948Henry S. Adams, one of the very early members of the American Alpine Club (elected in 1909), died last summer at the age of 84, at Hammonasset, Conn., of a heart attack suffered while he was in swimming.Born in Wethers...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Kunatinkuta

Kunatinkuta. On September 11, Giuseppe Ferrari and I drove to the Abra de Zongo that divides Huayna Potosí from Kunatinkuta. From Base Camp in the high valley just below the west glacier, we climbed the next morning to the crevassed west wall and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

Huascarán. The first Russian ascent of Huascarán was made on August 24, 1970 by Vladimir Kanunienko and Drs. Victor Gurmeniuk and Slava Romanoff. In 1972 a number of ascents were made. On July 12 Ned Coyl, Don Glantz, Mike Huitt, Mike Kelsey, Keit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, First Ascent of Red Sentinel

First Ascent of Red Sentinel. The Red Sentinel, a very spectacular 200-ft. spire rising abruptly on the ridge which joins the W. wall of Disappointment Peak, was scaled for the first time in July 1950 by Mike Brewer, Dick Pownall, Bob Merriam and ...