Hielo Patagonico Sur, North to South Traverse. Mostly unknown territory, the Hielo Patagonico Sur, 400 kilometers long by 80 kilometers wide, is the third-biggest ice plateau in the world. Its weather is the worst in the world and in the middle li...
Sentinel Rock, North Face. On July 5 and 6, Chuck Pratt and I established the seventh, though probably not the last, route on the narrow, vertically fractured north face of Sentinel Rock. We began in a jam-crack (about halfway between the beginnin...
The Northwest Face of Ama DablamVertical commitment in the Nepal Himalayaby Vanja Furlan, Planinska zveza Slovenijetranslated by Stanko KlinarI feel like crying as I watch Tomaz plowing toward the summit. The spell is broken when I find myself gas...
Mendenhall Towers, Rain, Heavy at Times; Rabbit Ears, Who Needs Cable? Over a 10-day period from June 18 to 27 Ryszard Pawlowski (Poland), Dave Sorric, and I put up a new route on the north face of the Mendenhall Towers (6,980') in the Juneau Icef...
Eiger by Jörg Lehne and Peter Haag. French translation by Monique Bittebierre. Paris: Hatier. 1967.Perhaps by the time this review appears, Eiger will have been translated into English. It ought to be, for it tells a great story and tells it well....
Koh-i-Marcheck and Other Peaks, Central Hindu Kush. An expedition of the Imperial College, London, approached via the Bashgal and Shkurigal valleys and climbed east of the region where the Scots were. On August 22, I. Staples and R. Wroot made the...
Canadian Rockies, summary. Ironically, the first significant ascent of the summer of 2003 was an alpine ice climb. These are, after all, the Canadian Rockies, where summer is but a brief interlude in the long, long winter. In late June the young C...
Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face. We made the seventh ascent of Hidden Peak by a partially new route, the north face, when Michel Dacher, Sigi Hupfauer and I got to the summit (8068 meters, 26,470 feet) on July 22. Base Camp was established ...
WILLIAM F. UNSOELD 1926-1979 On Sunday afternoon, March 4, Willi Unsoeld and one of his students, Janie Diepenbrock, were killed in a slab avalanche on Mount Rainier. A few days later more than 800 people came together to weep and to laugh; to...
Our five-pitch variation to the Northwest Face of Warrior I stemmed from an attempt to gain the stunning right-facing dihedral at the top of the tower while avoiding the 5.11b R traverse on the existing route. Last July we cleaned many loose...
The Dam at Moraine LakeWalter D. WilcoxIN the first number of the American Alpine Journal, in an interesting article entitled “Climbs from the Fay Hut”, Mr. Joel E. Fisher refers to an unusual condition of a cliff above the Fay Glacier where there...
Baffin Island, Wilson Wall, Grin and Barret, and tragedy. On April 24 Drew Wilson (24), Kyle Dempster (22), Grover Shipman (32), Ross Cowan (41), and I (25) left Ottawa for the Stewart Valley. I knew of only four routes there, two of which were pr...
The Patagonia Icecaph. w. TILMANThe Patagonia Icecap (Hielo Continental, as it is known in Chile) covers some 300 miles from Latitude 44 S to Latitude 51 S. In width it varies from 15 to 50 miles and in height from 6000 feet to 10,000 feet. The bo...
Makalu West Pillar Attempt. We were Dwayne Congdon, Albert Sole, Sharon Wood (recipient of a Vera Watson-Alison Chadwick Onyszkiewicz grant) and Dr. Ken Bassett, Canadians, and Charles Sassara and I, Americans. We established Base Camp at 17,700 f...
LIGHTNINGUtah, Lone PeakOn July 26, Trent (28) and Alexis Pabst (23) were killed by a lightning strike on the summit of Lone Peak. Together with Trent’s younger brother Tyler (18), the couple had climbed The Open Book, a five-pitch 5.7 route that ...
Ogre, South Buttress, Attempt, and Latok IV, South Summit, Ascent. Alexander Huber, Toni Gutsch and Jan Mersch reached Islamabad on May 31. Thomas Huber arrived on June 3. Our lost equipment (24 out of 37 pieces) finally arrived on June 9. We reac...
Istor-o-Nal, First Ascent of Highest Point, and Other Neighboring Peaks. Juan Cerda, Emilio Civio, Jorge Pons, Gines Roca and I as leader were joined in Rawalpindi by Liaison Officier Captain Amir Hashmat. From that city we drove by lorry a day an...
PHILIP DODD SMITH 1905-1979On November 7, 1979, one of the great pioneers of Teton climbing, Philip Dodd Smith of Twentynine Palms, California, died of a heart attack. Born on March 11, 1905, at Montour, Iowa, Phil Smith, as he was always informal...
Thunder Peak, East Ridge, Previously Unreported. In 1998 and 1999, a small Italian expedition visited the Miyar Valley in India. The team was composed of Gianluca Beilin and Diego Steffani. In 1998, they climbed a tower christened “Thunder Peak” (...
At the end of February 2010 Luciano Fiorenza, Tomy Aguilo, and I—all Argentines—completed a new route on the west pillar of Fitz Roy, on the face right of Supercanaleta and just right of Ensueño. On the first day we hiked from Chalten and climbe...