North America, United States, Colorado, Boulder Canyon

Publication Year: 1985.

Boulder Canyon. In the Wall Of Winter Warmth area on the Berlin Wall, right of The Iron Curtain, Bob Horan climbed Blitzkrieg (80 feet 5.11d), a steep face and overhang. The climb had been pre-protected by Dan Hare. On Blob Rock, Harrison Dekker top-roped (after many serious attempts) the roof left of Divine Wind, calling it Big Girls’ Underwear (50 feet 5.12 + ). On Bitty Buttress, left of Peapod, I top-roped the high-angle slab testpiece, Razor Hein Stick (60 feet, 5.12). The route is a good test for sticky boots and was climbed in Fires. Now, that several other sticky boots are available on the market, it will be interesting to see which shoes hold up and work on the slab. On the Milk Dud Cliff, located on the hill north of Mental Rock, several excellent sunny top- ropes and short leads have been climbed. On the sourth face, I led Tricks Are Fer Kids (40 feet 5.12a), a vertical face, that had an old aid line. The climb was top-roped prior to ascent and the old bolts were removed and replaced with two new ?” bolts, on rappel. Left of this, another short aid line has been top-roped by Christian Griffith and Dekker, The Rude Boy (40 feet 5.12a). The strenuous problem ascends an overhanging comer to a bulge.

Mark Rolofson, Unaffiliated