FAILURE TO COMMUNICATE, ILLNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 20, 1991, Larry Sorenson (51) experienced what he believed was a recurrence of acute colitis at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. Sorenson had also complained of gastro...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. For the past three years, my husband Haruyuki Endo and I have been engaged in special training to climb high mountains which combines normal advanced sportsman’s training and low-pressure, low-oxygen training in a depres...
Shivling, 1989. Our expedition from Italian Alpine Club’s Dueville Section was composed of leader Giacomo Albiero, Pierino Radin, Dr. Angelo Bogoni, Antonio Bortoli, Franco Brunello, Pierantonio Casagrande, Andrea Ercole, Sergio Grendene, Pietro P...
Overview. The year 2009 was bleak for mountaineering in Pakistan, as the security situation adversely affected the inflow of tourists. Sixty-three teams applied to attempt various peaks, but 18 withdrew their applications, and two teams that had b...
Mount Everest: A jigsaw puzzle, 20"×29", 1000 pieces. Heian International Inc. $7.95.Just ideal for the jaded armchair mountaineer, this magnificent panorama of the South Face with neighboring Lhotse dappled in alpenglow is from a photo by Shiro S...
Powell Peak Cirque, Early Retirement, and The Corporate Ladder In search of largely unexplored rock faces in RMNP, Bob Monet and I mutually concluded to venture to the east-facing cirque of Powell Peak. June 28 found us connecting a direct line to...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section has had another active year, hosting four evening meetings, a fall dinner meeting at Director Raffi Bedayn’s home, and our now traditional spring meeting in Yosemite. Broad membership participation in Clu...
Tilitso Attempt and Tragedy. Our international expedition under the leadership of Italian Francesco Santon was composed of eleven Italians, two Argentines, me from Czechoslovakia and three Sherpas. Our objective was the north buttress of Tilitso. ...
Hainabrakk East Tower, alpine-style link-up. Ko Imai and Hiroki Suzuki made the probable second alpine-style ascent of this ca 5,650m formation, linking the American route (Copp-Pennings, 2000) and the Slovak route (Kolarik-Rabatin, 2005) on July ...
AVALANCHE, SKIING ALONE—Wyoming, Grand Targhee Ski Resort. On March 20 Wayne Farrell (20) ski toured out of the patrolled area of Grand Targhee Ski Resort. While attempting the descent of a steep northwest facing hillside, Farrell was caught in a ...
FALL ON ROCK—LOWERING ERRORIdaho, City of Rocks National ReserveOn August 6, Emily Town (19) was leading an estimated 240 foot climb up Stripe Rock when she and her father Glen Town, who was lowering her down the rock, ran out of rope, according t...
Cirque of the Unclimbables, 1980. Much climbing continued to be done in 1980 in the Logan Mountains. The Lotus Flower Tower was climbed by mountaineers of various countries, but trash has been left in appalling quantities even on this climb. Bill ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5), Middle Teton Glacier— On August 13, Phillip Martin (21) and Charles E. Jones (21) were ascending the Duke Pinnacle Col. In the upper third of the couloir aslip occurred. Because of their weight difference (M...
RAPPEL FAILURECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyJohn Garten (24), John Nygaard (22), and Jeffrey Graves (22), all experienced 5.10 climbers, fell to their deaths on May 14 while descending the Nose on El Ca- pitan. The exact cause will never be known, bu...
FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, KananaskisOn February 17, 1980, Peter Haase (18) and Marvin Dean (17) were climbing the waterfalls at Heart Creek in the Kananaskis. Both of us had some experience at ice climbing, and I had taken several courses ...
Reports via London. The Alpine Journal for November 1947 reports an attempt on Rakaposhi by a party consisting of Messrs. C. H. Secord and H. W. Tilman and Herren Gyr and Kappeler, and the subsequent attainment by Messrs. Tilman and Shipton of the...
Sierra Nevada Section. Dave Riggs, Section Chair since 2006, transitioned to the AAC Board of Directors and deserves many thanks for his fine leadership these past years.The Section again hosted its popular annual “Climb-munity” gatherings, with t...
Manaslu. Our three-man expedition climbed Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet) by the normal route, the northeast face. We arrived at Base Camp at 15,100 feet on October 1. In comparison with my expedition to Manaslu three years ago, the route was s...
Austro-Argentine Atacama Expedition. Towering above the Puna de Atacama, already at an average of 13,000 feet, rise glacier-flecked volcanos to over 22,000 feet (Ojos del Salado, 22,591 feet). This naked salt and gravel desert, with its moonlike l...
Cayangate Group and Ausangate Attempt. A light expedition from Kraków climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota, staying in a hotel in Ocongate. The approach from there to the foot of the mountains was made each time by truck and then with horses. Stayi...