Pyramid Peak, North Face, First Winter Ascent. In early February, Lou Dawson, Michael Pokress and I made the first winter ascent of the north face of Pyramid. A previous attempt had been stopped by bad weather and high avalanche danger, but during our successful climb conditions were superb. The climbing consisted largely of steep snow in the back of a narrow, deep and gloomy gully, but the hardest sections were the many short (50- to 100-foot) rock headwalls. These gave quite consistent and difficult climbing in the F7 to F9 range, with minimal protection; the transitions from rock to snow were invariably both insecure and hard. The climb took about nine hours, with a further three for the descent. NCCS III, F9.

Michael Kennedy, Elk Mountain Climbing Club