TABLE III Operation Conducted ForStateHunters-FishermenAircraftClimbersOtherArizona00511California3301735Colorado213014Montana0003Oregon41411Washington7101914Wyoming0030TOTAL46127888Initial inquiry indicates that the bulk of “other” are hikers, an...
Mt. Dickey, Snowpatrol. After hearing vague rumors concerning a gorge with mixed lines 5,000' high, half an hour from camp, Andy Sharpe and I packed a spare pair of socks and headed out to the Ruth to see what we could find.We flew in and got dump...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 14, 1982, around 1400, Jim Slichter (27) was leading Pitch 24 of Pancake Flake on The Nose on El Capitan when an aid nut he was standing on pulled and he fell three meters. He st...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliff, Standard Route LeftOn February 17, the strongest leader, Tom, had apparently done the first (crux) pitch just fine. The second leader, Jim, fell while attemp...
Santa Cruz South Face. On June 7 and 8, Emil Tratnik, Andrej Lužnik, Peter Poljanec and I climbed the 1200-meter-high south face of Santa Cruz. We had very bad snow conditions and had to bivouac when we gained the west ridge. In the last part ther...
Mt. Joffre, Smell the Roses. Joffre’s northeast face has a nice chimney/gully line, just left of the central pillar. It rimes up well in winter, with just enough snow and ice to be tempting. On my first attempt, with Mike Spagnut and Andrew Port, ...
Devil’s Thumb, West Buttress, 1990. In pounding rain in May, 1990, Jim Haberl, Michael Down and I helicoptered from Petersburg to set up Base Camp at the fork of the Witch’s Cauldron just north of the Devil’s Thumb. When the weather cleared, we le...
Himalchuli Ascent and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Las- zlo Berzi, Sandor Csanadi, Peter Greskovits, Dr. Antal Kallo, Laszlo Katona, Jozsef Csikos, Istvan Szabo, Gyorgy Toldi, Istvan Tolnai, Csaba Toth, Laszlo Voros and I as leader....
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Prowed and Free; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, speed ascent. On July 2 Nathan Martin and I started our 34-day expedition to the Tasermiut fiord in southern Greenland by climbing the dead-straight 2,500-foot route Non C’...
Chaturangi Glacier, First Ascents. From June to July, Amitabha Roy led a Rocks & Snow Expedition that succeeded in climbing two unnamed peaks in the Chaturangi Glacier area. Base Camp was established at 5030 meters on June 25, Cl (5180m) on Ju...
Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Louis Audoubert, François Poissonier, Patrick Marcelot, Lionel André, Paul Vuillard, Annie Dubois and me. On December 1, Sundare Sherpa and I left Base Camp at 4700 meters and got to 7100 me...
Pico Schulze, southwest face; Punta 5,505m. Three new routes were added to the southwest face of Pico Schulze (5,943m), a fine fluted snow-and-ice pyramid northwest of Illampu (6,368m) in the northern Real. These may be the first new routes on the...
Pakistan, Mountaineering Developments. Pakistan has opened peaks up to 6500 meters for climbing without liaison officers or peak fees, except in restricted areas. It is now possible to obtain 30-day visas on arrival at airports.
Four Gables, North Peak via East Face. This was a new route, done June 15, 1974 with Mike Levine, following the buttress on the face seen plainly from the highway north of Bishop. Once on the buttress, reasonably sound granite led the climbing to ...
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), west face, Ice Age, and north pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), northwest buttress, The Sound of Silence. When Ivar Tollefsen “discovered” the peaks of Queen Maud Land in 1994 and published reports and...
Mt. McKinley was climbed for the first time since 1913, early this summer when an expedition led by Alfred Lindley of Minneapolis and Harry K. Leik, Superintendent of Mt. McKinley National Park with Erling Strom of Lake Placid and Grant Pearson, a...
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, attempt and third ascent. In November Frenchmen Jerome Arpin and Sylvain Empereur attempted to climb Riders on the Storm in alpine style. They climbed 18 pitches in four days, but the weather changed, bringing v...
Makalu, West Face Attempt and Rapid West Buttress Ascent. The west face of Makalu was first attempted in 1977 and first climbed solo by Jerzy Kukuczka in October 1981. The route followed the left edge of the face and finished via the northwest rid...
Kirghiz Range, Tien Shan. From June 20 to July 18 ten Yugoslav climbers visited the Kirghiz Ala Tau in the Soviet Tien Shan. The Tien Shan stretch deep into China, while westwards they break into several lower parallel ranges. The Kirghiz Ala Tau ...
La Neige en Deuil, by Henri Troyat. 195 pages. Paris: Flammarion, 1952. Price, 390 Fr. frs.This is primarily a psychological novel, not a tale of mountain adventure, but it is unthinkable without its background of the French peasant’s home, the li...