Attempt on Mir Samir. Permission for an expedition led by Dr. A. James of the University of Newcastle-on-Tyne to Chitral was canceled and so the twelve members visited the Panjshir valley in the Afghan Hindu Kush. They attempted to climb Mir Samir...
Attempt on Thui I, Hindu Raj. The Unpyo Club sent Takaaki Asaga, Toshiaki Miyoshi and Masami Ikeda to attempt Thui I (21,654 feet). After leaving Chitral on June 19 they established Base Camp on July on the Panarillo Glacier at 13,125 feet on July...
Unnamed (9200 ft.). Two miles S. of Mt. Balfour on W. edge of Daly Glacier. 1940 first ascent by E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Ascend via gully to right of Takakkaw Falls and thence onto Daly Glacier (2 h.). Cross glacier and ascend via broken r...
Inspiration Peak, Northeast Buttress. In August 1996 Dana Hagin and I climbed the Northeast Buttress of Inspiration Peak in the Southern Pickets but never reported it. We approached via Terror Creek, climbed to the saddle between West McMillan and...
Aconcagua. The highest summit on the Western Hemisphere was reached by two different parties on the same day. On March 8th, an Italian party consisting of Paolo and Stefano Ceresa, Piero Ghiglione, Renato Chabod, Mario Pasten, and Nicola Plantamur...
Eagle Peak, West Face Direct. The route is straightforward on generally sound quartzite. I followed a prominent rib directly up the center of the face to the summit. Chocks can be used throughout. I made this first ascent solo. NCCS II or III, F7....
Near Lago Argentino. The Tokyo University of Technology Expedition was in Patagonia from October, 1968 to February, 1969. The members were Riko Fijii, leader, Tooru Takahashi, Motohiko Miyazaki and Kiyo- taka Suzuki. After 36 days in the customs, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CHOCK PULLED OUT, HUMIDITYPennsylvania, Ralph Stover State ParkOn September 15, 1985, Michael Keeley (24) attempted to lead Triple O (5.7-5.8), a popular top-rope climb on the 18 meter high practice face at Ralph Stover State Park. K...
WEATHER, STRANDED—BENIGHTED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXHAUSTIONCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Fairview DomeOn September 19, two Japanese climbers, Kengo Tagai (31) and Akira Uasa (39), began ascending Fairview Dom...
A Note on the Chinese Name for K2, “Qogir.” The Chinese use “Qogir” for the name of the world’s second highest peak. The Editor and other experts deplore this name. It would be written “Chogir” in our usual orthography. This is obviously a corrupt...
Mount Humphreys, North Face. Darla Heil and I had planned to do the Rowell-Faint route, but it seems that we were well to the right of that. From a point two-thirds of the way up the couloir running under the face, I led past a six-foot red roof (...
Washington, Mt. St. Helens. On 19 May John Borst, Jr. (23) and Wayne Anderson (23) started up the lizard route on Mt. St. Helens. Each man was equipped with long underwear, two T-shirts, sweat shirt, waterproof pants, vibram boots, wool socks, fac...
In April we established several new routes in northern Argentina. The most difficult was a mixed line on the south face of Chañi Chico (5,570m): Marcados por el Chañi (600m, M5 85°) climbs 13 pitches to the summit, and took 12 hours of climbing,...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 15, 1987, Mike Vanderbeek age 22, was leading the first pitch of the Steck/Salathe on Sentinel Rock when he took a ten-meter fall to the ground. At the time, he was down-climbing...
Manaslu Attempt. A Swiss-Italian expedition was made up of four Swiss and two Italian climbers and an Italian couple with their seven-year-old daughter. The leader was Cesare Cesa-Bianchi. They attempted the normal northeast face route. Camp V at ...
Nooksack Cirque Icewall. Once described as the “deepest, darkest, coldest hole” in the North Cascades, the Nooksack Cirque offers many short ice climbs of a high standard. In early September, Dusan Jagersky and I climbed the biggest ice face in th...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount WaddingtonOn September 13, 1989, Richard Thomas (35) was ascending a steep snow gully at 1980 meters on Mount Waddington with two companions when a large falling rock struck him on the head, sha...
The Mountains of the World, by Hisatake Murakami, Editor, and Ichiro Yoshizawa, Director. Tokyo: Yama to Keikoku, 1967. 212 pages, 200 color pictures and 8 sketch-maps; paper cover. Price: Yen 480 or $1.40. This small book is a pleasant surprise. ...
Meru, South Ridge Attempt. On July 10 we placed out Base Camp at 4850 meters on the moraine of the Kirti Bamak (glacier) below the foot of the south ridge of Meru. Our objective had been the east face of Thalay Sagar, but the first 1000 meters wer...
Koh-e-Baba. The Frenchmen Jean Emmanuel Michal and Laurent Davenas on August 18 and 19 climbed Koh-e-Baba (16,861 feet), ascending the southeast ridge and descending the east face. A Japanese party from Tokyo Metropolitan University also made an a...