Pamirs. Beginning with the German-Russian Expedition of 1928 there have been to date five expeditions to the Pamirs. In 1928 the German alpinists of the expedition climbed the peak Merzbacher had named Alt. Kaufmann (7,130 m.), believing it to be ...
Just two days after arriving at Jannu Base Camp on April 5, Alex Bolotov, Sergey Borisov, and Gennady Kirievsky began to work the bottom part of our route. We would use a trio of three-man parties, and our leader, Alexander Odintsov, planned to jo...
Chris Warner and I planned to attempt Amotsang during August and September. In 2003 a French expedition led by Paulo Grobel reconnoitered the south and west sides, finding no feasible route. Moving to the north flank, they decided the best approac...
Washington, Beacon Rock, near Columbia River—On Wednesday, February 6, at about noon, Robert J. Boyle (24) decided to try a one-man descent of the N.W. face of 840 foot Beacon Rock. Upon arriving at the base of the rock he gathered his gear, which...
Complete crossing of the southern section of the Chinese Pamir and first ascents of Pts 5,430m and 5,975m. Andrei Lebedev (leader), Otto Chkhetiani (assistant leader), Mikhail Babich (Saint Petersburg), Tatiana Belyaeva (Saint Petersburg), Yura Ma...
FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCEQuébec, Saint Raymond de Portneuf, Delaney FallsOn January 13, E.F. and E.L. had just finished climbing La Transparente, a 150m waterfall climb on Delaney Falls near St. Raymond de Portn...
Longs Peak, Chasm View Wall. On Chasm View Wall, in between Red Wall and Directissima, Middle Ground (5.11) was established by Chip Chase et al in 1996.Kath Pyke, United Kingdom
Western Sikkim, Lama Lamani North, first ascent, northwest flank and west ridge; Tinchen Kang, third ascent. In a 20-day round trip from Gangtok, between March 15 and April 3, we made three excursions on peaks in the Thangsing Valley of western Si...
Pachinko is a popular Japanese game with metal balls that bounce around inside a machine and then disappear. It is like a combination of pinball and slot machines. The climbing version consists of climbing more than one route in a single push. We ...
P 6504 (Rajiv). A 23-member team, including 15 climbers from the Rajiv Gandhi Memorial Athanium Club of Madras, was led by R. Gopi and K. Pradip. This virgin peak, which lies southeast of Bhagirathi II, was climbed in three batches in mid-June. Wi...
Sierra Nevada: (3) Twin Peaks (8924 ft.), above Lake Tahoe, California. On 14 August 1947 Emmett Pettit, an easterner 23 years old, previously acquainted with a few climbs in the Canadian Rockies, was killed by a fall from a rock face. He was one ...
Indian Creek, Various Activity. In Indian Creek, there is ever more development, little of which gets reported. Previously unreported is Sports Page (5.10), climbed by Steve DeFino and Jonathan McCue. The route is approximately 200 feet down the N...
Alan Deakin, David Heap, Bill Ryan, Eric Penman, my wife Linda and I as leader arrived at our Makalu Base Camp at 14,500 feet on November 30. We walked in from Tumlingtar with 26 porters in 12 days with excellent weather, although snow and ice did...
Risum, ascent of east ridge. On September 20 Isomi Okanda (61) of Japan and a porter made an ascent of the east ridge of 7,050m Risum (Fuqu in Chinese). Okanda followed the route of the first ascent, which was made on May 10, 1997, by Kazuyoshi Ko...
Carstensz Pyramid, 1993. Our expedition consisted of 6 French climbers, 3 Belgians, 2 Spaniards and an Englishman. It took us six days and seven flights to reach our jumping-off place for the seven-day trek to the mountain. Twelve climbed to the s...
Centenary of Professor Fay. March 10th, 1946, marks the centenary of the birth of Charles E. Fay, first president of the American Alpine Club, whose biographical sketch will be found in this issue. It would be most appropriate if some of our membe...
Blackfriar, Ironman East Peak and the Stickle, Adamant Group, Selkirks. In August Peter Cole and I were flown by helicopter to the Silvertip Glacier below Mount Blackfriar. We spent two weeks in the Adamant group, moving camp from the Silvertip to...
Sierra NevadaWest Fuller Butte, The Twisted Bit. Doniel Drazin and Brandon Thau completed an eight pitch route (IV 5.12b) on the blank 1,000' face of West Fuller Butte on November 9, 2001. Aside from one splitter-crack pitch, the route is mainly c...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn August 9, 1980, about 3:30 p.m., Scott Taylor (22), Andy Fisher (27) and Laura Mann had just climbed Storm Point and were attempting Ice Point. Taylor was in the lead, the part...
TABLE II Type of OperationStateNumber of SearchesNumber of RescuesNumber of RecoveriesArizona682California31459Colorado29144Montana210Oregon550Washington24170Wyoming030TOTAL1079324