Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Lobuche Kang II, First Ascent

Lobuche Kang II, First Ascent. A Swiss party from Neuchatel established Base Camp at 5300 meters. Camp I was above the difficult 400-meter-high serac barrier at 5750 meters, Camp II was at 6300 meters on the col between Lobuche Kang I (7367 meters...


Book Reviews AAJ
Field Book—The Wind River Range from Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas with Supplement

Field Book—The Wind River Range from Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas with Supplement, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sagebooks, 1960 and 1962. 148 pages, 37 ills., 8 maps, index, 1962 supplement. Pric...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Delta Range, Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball

Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball. On August 12 I laid eyes on Bethan Gilmartin for the first time. August 13 found us driving to the Richardson Highway Monument and starting to hike east toward Mt. Kimball (10,200'). Due to inclement weather and poor m...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure, New Hampshire, Cannon Cliffs

RAPPEL FAILURENew Hampshire, Cannon CliffsIn September, a climber rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 30 feet to the scree below, sustaining only a sprained neck. He was assisted to the road by Fish and Game personnel. (Source: Rick Wilcox,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Incomplete Tie-In, Fall on Rock, California, The Needles, Sorcerer Needle

INCOMPLETE TIE-IN, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, The Needles, Sorcerer NeedleOn September 4, two climbers were on Thin Ice (5.10b) at the Needles, an easy route for their abilities, after earlier climbing two short, multi-pitch routes, Igor Unchained (5...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Minar and M6, Kishtwar Region

Minar and M6, Kishtwar Region. A British Joint Service team, led by Squadron Leader Emlyn Thomas, was joined by members of the Indian Air Force. Base Camp was in the Chandra valley. They made the first ascent of two peaks between June 24 and July ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Dorado Needle, West Buttress, 1985

Dorado Needle, West Buttress, 1985. In October 1985, Dan Cauthorn and I found our way to Dorado Needle. Our route starts in a recess to the right of the buttress proper and ascends a wall just left of a chimney for the first pitch. Several more mo...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Sierra Nevada, Matterhorn Peak

California, Sierra Nevada, Matterhorn Peak. On 11 October Craig Williams (41), Bob Bowen (34), and Clarke Smith (35), all experienced mountaineers, were descending on a sunny day from a successful and uneventful ascent of Matterhorn Peak. This inv...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, California, Yosemite Valley

FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 18, 1983, Robert Muhnicki (28) was leading the tenth pitch on the Northwest Face of Half Dome when a large rock flake he was on broke away. He fell onto his climbing partner, Toivo Kodas. The roc...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers Climbing Committee sponsored a number of programs to serve all levels of climbing competence in the club. The best known of these is the Basic Climbing Course which enrolled 227 students and graduated 129. Gradua...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Dunagiri Attempt

Dunagiri Attempt. Austrians Wolfgang Stefan, Peter Pavlag, and Oswald Duba and Swiss Hans Zebrowski left Reni on May 3 and ascended the Rishi Ganga to establish Base Camp near the Ramani Glacier on the 8th. Duba had to return to civilization becau...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Bear Creek Spire

Bear Creek Spire. In February, Bill Kerwin and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via a new route on the south face. Starting on slabby rock uphill of Rowell’s routes, we took a direct line to the summit through the upper steep headwall a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Louis

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn July 11, 1985, two climbers departed early on the normal route. Usual ascent speed was maintained until the climbers moved onto the steeper south face where difficulties increa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Brammah's Wife Attempt

Brammah’s Wife Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Richard Hester, Hugh Thornbery, Don Mabbs, Chris Parkin, Peter Blackburn and me as leader. We wanted to climb Brammah’s Wife (17,973 feet) and the Eiger (18,088 feet) alpine-style without fixe...


Book Reviews AAJ
Le Diable Des Dolomites

Le Diable Des Dolomites by Tita Piaz. Translated by Felix Germain. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1963. 268 pages, 20 illustrations. 18 francs.A translation of the autobiography of the guide Tita Piaz, who flourished in the Dolomites in early decades of the 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, P 6568 ("Manda South") and Jogin I

P 6568 (“Manda South”) and Jogin I. From Bheronghoti it took Peter Athans, Maggie Fox, Peter O’Neil, Rachel Cox and me three days to march up the precipitous Kedar Ganga to reach Base Camp at 15,500 feet on the slopes west of the Kedar Tal (lake) ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Travellers in Switzerland

Travellers in Switzerland, by G. R. de Beer, xviii + 584 pages, with 23 full-page illustrations. Oxford University Press, 1949. Price, $8.00.This is a biographical encyclopaedia of travellers in Switzerland from Willa of Ivrea, who crossed the San...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Crown Point, Peeler Pillar

Crown Point, Peeler Pillar. Near the Twin Lakes area to the north of Yosemite, Crown Point lies between Crown and Peeler Lakes. Rising above Peeler Lake is an impressive pillar which Geert Dijkhuis (of Holland), Larry Johnson, and I climbed on Sep...


Book Reviews AAJ
Sagas of the Evergreens

Sagas of the Evergreens, by Frank H. Lamb. 8 vo., 359 pages with illustrations. New York : W. W. Norton Co., 1938. Price $3.50.Evergreens everywhere are the living announcement to the climber that he is approaching the mountains. Climbers, hurryin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Jichu Drake or Tsherim Kang Tragedy

Jichu Drake or Tsherim Kang Tragedy. Our 13-man expedition left Italy on August 21. We were flown in a small plane of the Bhutanese Airline to Paro at 7550 feet, where we were warmly received by representatives of the Ministry of Tourism and passe...