Tumwater Canyon, Wall Street Route on Noontime Rock. This direct route is probably the steepest-angle, and most strenuous climb in Tumwater Canyon. Dave Beckstead and I explored it in mid-winter, then completed the climb in early spring. The route...

Eiger and Cathedral Attempts, Kishtwar. Our party was composed of Emmett Goulding, Anthony Latham, Joss Lynam, Clare Sheridan and me as leader. We hoped to climb peaks on the south side of the Kiar Nallah. Base Camp was set up at the foot of the S...

Cerro Bismarck, Ancient Ascents. This rock peak is located immediately south of Cerro Plomo, on whose top an Inca mummy was uncovered in 1954. Alejo Contreras found very close to the summit (4715 meters, 15,468 feet) a very small rock construction...

Cerro de la Plata. Takashi Tanabe, Yukihiro Yanagasawa and Osamu Tominaga climbed the south face of the Cerro de la Plata (5850 meters or 19,193 feet) during the first week of January.

Makalu, Southeast Ridge to East Face. Our sixteen-member expedition, which included scientists and three reporters, made a new route variation on Makalu. The leader was Ham Tak-Young. Because of customs delays in Calcutta, we did not set out from ...

Yerupajá, Northeast Face and East Spur, Cordillera Huayhuash. The members of the Tyrolean Andean Expedition of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.), Innsbruck branch, were Helmuth Wagner, Egon Wurm, Sepp Majerl, Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler, Dr. R...

Ausangate and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Five Poles climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota in June. We were Maciej Karon, Andrzej Makaran, Andrzej Pieta, Wieslaw Szczepanek and me as leader. Yanajaja II (5400 meters, 17,717 feet), Santa Catal...

Nanga Parbat, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition, sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, was international. The members were Harald Nevé, leader, and Richard Franzl, Austrians, Albrecht Baumgartner, Dr. Peter Forre...

Wyoming, Grand Teton. On 6 July at 2130 hours, Gregory Sharp (23) and George Macheel reached the Owen rappel point after climbing the Grand Teton. According to Sharp, he had made the rappel after a previous ascent of the Grand and thought a 150 fo...

Annapurna II Attempt. Our expedition to the west ridge of Annapurna II was composed of Lucy Smith and me, co-leaders, Sue Giller, George Vansickle, Julie Brugger, John Trainor, Devin McGowan, Polly Fabian and Craig Seasholes. We met with many frus...

P 20,308, Pangong Range, Ladakh. This virgin peak was climbed on September 20 by six members of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police and two other policemen. The summiters were R.C. Anand, leader, Balbir Singh, Tashi Sherpa, Rabgyas, Dubi Ram, Tsering N...

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club held its 15th Western Outing in Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park, Alberta, in July. Camp was located at Surprise Point on Amethyst Lake with 30 members in attendance. Given superb weather, several parties ...

FALLING ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Wind River Range, Mount WarrenOn July 24, 1989, National Outdoor Leadership School leader Phil Peabody set out at 0620 with three students, David Black (24), Justin Burchett (16), and Rob Hirschfield (20), to attempt ...

PROTECTION CAME OFF, SHOULDER DISLOCATION California, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn September 9, 1993, at 1700, I was dispatched to the SAR cache to work as the medic on a Half Dome SAR. Warner Braun, Pat Sullivan and I were flown to the base of Ha...

The Minarets were the scene of a number of climbs effected by members of the search parties looking for Walter A. Starr, Jr., who lost his life in a solo attempt on Michael’s Minaret. Norman Clyde, who found the body, and Oliver Kehrlein made two ...

Yangra Kangri, attempt on a new route. The highest summit in the Ganesh Himal lies on the Nepal-Tibet border and is referred to as Yangra Kangri (in Tibet) or Ganesh I (in Nepal). The 7429m peak was climbed on October 24,1955 from the Nepalese sid...

RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE ANCHOR Alberta, Bow FallsOn Feb. 23 around noon, a party of three were starting the descent of this Grade III, WI4 route. F.B. lowered J.P. and D.P. from a three-screw anchor. F.B. then proceeded to rappel from a single Sim...

Chilean Andes. The twelfth ascent of Aconcagua was made on January 31st, 1937, by Juan Schuckert. The second ascent of El Tronador, 3470 m., was made in January, 1937, by Otto Meiling. In September, 1937, H. Hess and R. Roth succeeded in making th...

Singuchuli Attempt. Slovenes Tadej Golob and Žiga Petric wanted to make an attempt on Hiunchuli, but because there was nearly no snow on the east face of Hiunchuli, they attempted the south face of Singuchuli (6501 meters, 21,329 feet). After a fi...

Arapiles, AustraliaAlison OsiusIT HAD BEEN a slow morning, rainy. Wolfgang was lecturing on training, Kurt singing, Didier smoking, me eating borrowed prescription anti-inflammatories.But now we were at the base of India, 29, which several years a...