Lobuche Kang II, First Ascent. A Swiss party from Neuchatel established Base Camp at 5300 meters. Camp I was above the difficult 400-meter-high serac barrier at 5750 meters, Camp II was at 6300 meters on the col between Lobuche Kang I (7367 meters...
Field Book—The Wind River Range from Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas with Supplement, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sagebooks, 1960 and 1962. 148 pages, 37 ills., 8 maps, index, 1962 supplement. Pric...
Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball. On August 12 I laid eyes on Bethan Gilmartin for the first time. August 13 found us driving to the Richardson Highway Monument and starting to hike east toward Mt. Kimball (10,200'). Due to inclement weather and poor m...
RAPPEL FAILURENew Hampshire, Cannon CliffsIn September, a climber rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 30 feet to the scree below, sustaining only a sprained neck. He was assisted to the road by Fish and Game personnel. (Source: Rick Wilcox,...
INCOMPLETE TIE-IN, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, The Needles, Sorcerer NeedleOn September 4, two climbers were on Thin Ice (5.10b) at the Needles, an easy route for their abilities, after earlier climbing two short, multi-pitch routes, Igor Unchained (5...
Minar and M6, Kishtwar Region. A British Joint Service team, led by Squadron Leader Emlyn Thomas, was joined by members of the Indian Air Force. Base Camp was in the Chandra valley. They made the first ascent of two peaks between June 24 and July ...
Dorado Needle, West Buttress, 1985. In October 1985, Dan Cauthorn and I found our way to Dorado Needle. Our route starts in a recess to the right of the buttress proper and ascends a wall just left of a chimney for the first pitch. Several more mo...
California, Sierra Nevada, Matterhorn Peak. On 11 October Craig Williams (41), Bob Bowen (34), and Clarke Smith (35), all experienced mountaineers, were descending on a sunny day from a successful and uneventful ascent of Matterhorn Peak. This inv...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 18, 1983, Robert Muhnicki (28) was leading the tenth pitch on the Northwest Face of Half Dome when a large rock flake he was on broke away. He fell onto his climbing partner, Toivo Kodas. The roc...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers Climbing Committee sponsored a number of programs to serve all levels of climbing competence in the club. The best known of these is the Basic Climbing Course which enrolled 227 students and graduated 129. Gradua...
Dunagiri Attempt. Austrians Wolfgang Stefan, Peter Pavlag, and Oswald Duba and Swiss Hans Zebrowski left Reni on May 3 and ascended the Rishi Ganga to establish Base Camp near the Ramani Glacier on the 8th. Duba had to return to civilization becau...
Bear Creek Spire. In February, Bill Kerwin and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via a new route on the south face. Starting on slabby rock uphill of Rowell’s routes, we took a direct line to the summit through the upper steep headwall a...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn July 11, 1985, two climbers departed early on the normal route. Usual ascent speed was maintained until the climbers moved onto the steeper south face where difficulties increa...
Brammah’s Wife Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Richard Hester, Hugh Thornbery, Don Mabbs, Chris Parkin, Peter Blackburn and me as leader. We wanted to climb Brammah’s Wife (17,973 feet) and the Eiger (18,088 feet) alpine-style without fixe...
Le Diable Des Dolomites by Tita Piaz. Translated by Felix Germain. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1963. 268 pages, 20 illustrations. 18 francs.A translation of the autobiography of the guide Tita Piaz, who flourished in the Dolomites in early decades of the 1...
P 6568 (“Manda South”) and Jogin I. From Bheronghoti it took Peter Athans, Maggie Fox, Peter O’Neil, Rachel Cox and me three days to march up the precipitous Kedar Ganga to reach Base Camp at 15,500 feet on the slopes west of the Kedar Tal (lake) ...
Travellers in Switzerland, by G. R. de Beer, xviii + 584 pages, with 23 full-page illustrations. Oxford University Press, 1949. Price, $8.00.This is a biographical encyclopaedia of travellers in Switzerland from Willa of Ivrea, who crossed the San...
Crown Point, Peeler Pillar. Near the Twin Lakes area to the north of Yosemite, Crown Point lies between Crown and Peeler Lakes. Rising above Peeler Lake is an impressive pillar which Geert Dijkhuis (of Holland), Larry Johnson, and I climbed on Sep...
Sagas of the Evergreens, by Frank H. Lamb. 8 vo., 359 pages with illustrations. New York : W. W. Norton Co., 1938. Price $3.50.Evergreens everywhere are the living announcement to the climber that he is approaching the mountains. Climbers, hurryin...
Jichu Drake or Tsherim Kang Tragedy. Our 13-man expedition left Italy on August 21. We were flown in a small plane of the Bhutanese Airline to Paro at 7550 feet, where we were warmly received by representatives of the Ministry of Tourism and passe...