A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Annual Banquet for the Cascade Section was held at the Mountaineers’ Club Room on February 15, 1994 with guest speaker Seattle’s own Ed Viesturs, the only American to have climbed the three highest peaks of the world. ...
Huandoy Norte, North Face. Matt Kerns, Tom Hargis, Hal Tompkins and I left the Quebrada Parón for the north face of Huandoy Norte. Tompkins came down with a high fever at our bivouac at 19,000 feet. His condition did not improve after a day of res...
Mr. Bradford Washburn led a party of one other Harvard student, three Appalachian Mountain Club hut boys and a former Rainier guide to Alaska in an attempt on Mt. Fairweather this last summer. The expedition was unfortunate in being unable to effe...
Redwall Peak, East Face. Not far north of Grave Lake in the southern Wind River Range is an outstanding small peak with a spectacular 1000-foot east face, quite reddish in color. Layton Kor and I made its first ascent on September 6, climbing the ...
Keeler Needle, Australopithecus. Australopithecus was established by Ammon McNeely and Kevin Conti on October 9, 1999, after a week of establishing base camp and eight days on the wall. The VI A3+ route begins left of the Crimson Wall. They report...
FALL ON SNOW/ICEWashingtonTwo climbers requesting a rescue for a third team member on Liberty Ridge contacted Mount Rainier National Park early on June 16th. The injured climber, Talbot (60), had severely broken his lower leg during a 200-foot fal...
Mount Terror, North Face, Left Side. From July 14 to 17, I soloed a new route on the north face of Mount Terror. The climb follows the prominent buttress left of the original 1961 route. The approach was made in two days via Stettattle Ridge and u...
Stok Kangri Region, Ladakh Himalaya. In 1976 Gretel Johnson and I spent the summer in the Ladakh Himalaya, exploring route possibilities in the Thadjiwas valley south of Sonamarg and in the Stok Kangri region near Leh. We both climbed Katzim Pahal...
Kwangde Shar, Northeast Spur, Attempt. It was reported that a British team led by Phil Wicken had hoped to make an ascent of Kwangde Nup (6035m), but unstable weather forced them to change their objective to the northeast spur of Kwangde Shar. The...
Liberty Bell Mountain, North Face Direct. After an unsuccessful attempt on the Red Gully last year, the stage was set on August 8 for Jim Yoder, Bob Vaughn and me to push up one of the last unclimbed faces on Liberty Bell. Third-classing up left o...
Middle Triple Peak, Kichatna Mountains, Attempt. In July Roy Kligfield, David Loeks and I were landed on the Tatina Glacier. Our main objective was the unclimbed Middle Triple Peak (8835 feet). Unfortunately we did not attempt the peak by the rout...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Grace FallsOn January 2, 1983, Chris Waydeveld (19) and Royal Laybourn had topped out on the 35-meter, near-vertical, Grace Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park. They were on low-angle water ic...
P 21,750, near Sri Kailas, Gangotri, 1979. After failing to climb Sri Kailas, an Indian expedition ascended P 21,750 (6629 meters), which lies west of it. In September 1979 Ranvir Singh, leader and high-altitude porters Narayan Singh and Gopal Sin...
Mountains of Starbird Ridge, Purcells. In August Kenneth and Corky Rinehart, Bob and Peg West, Dave West (12), Scott West (8) and Sandy Rinehart (5) visited the mountains of the Starbird Ridge between Forster and Horsethief creeks. We traveled by ...
Indian Creek. New routes continue to be established at a fast pace on the miles of Wingate Sandstone walls of Indian Creek. Details of approach may be researched in the Desert Rock climbing guide or information gained by writing to Eric Bjømstad, ...
Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube. Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Tatsuro Yamada established three impressive new routes in the Ruth Gorge in April and early May. Season ...
The Bride. In a hidden canyon west of Moab stands a 300-foot sandstone tower known locally as “The Bride”, since its profile does resemble a lady and her bouquet. In the fall of 1970 Eric Bjørnstad and I climbed closely beneath the bouquet but did...
HAPE, PARTY SEPARTEDAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 28 at 0745, John Tatzalaff (39) of Team Springer Zissou requested NPS assistance at the 14,200-foot camp because he was experiencing difficulty breathing. A thorough examination by Pa...
On the Hills of the North, by J. Hubert Walker. Square 8vo., xv, 182 pp., 24 photographic illustrations, 6 maps. London, 1948: Oliver and Boyd. Price, 15/-.Mr. Walker’s new book describes his ramblings and scramblings among the highlands of the no...
Lhotse Shar Tragedy. The ten-man Spanish team’s attempt on the south face of Lhotse Shar ended abruptly when on October 30 Pedro Alonso fell 2400 meters to the bottom of the face from ten meters below the site for Camp IV at 7400 meters. He and th...