Sharkfn Tower, Northwest Face. On July 1, Dan Raish, Woody Savage and I made the first recorded ascent on the north side of this small but prominent peak above Boston Basin. A drop over Sharkfin Col and a short traverse to the east on the Boston G...
Kohe Uparisina, Kohe Hevad and Other Peaks, Ishmurgh Valley. The Academic Alpine Club of Kraków Expedition was led by Janusz Maczka and composed of R. Bieniek, M. Kozik, L. Kozakiewicz, B. Strzelski, Ewa Panejko, A. Pawlik, J. Zajac, R. Urbanik, E...
Belgian Greenland Expedition. Tragedy struck a Belgian expedition consisting of nine people when they were attempting to climb Sneepyramiden (7336 feet), on the Akuliaruseq Peninsula, about 40 miles from Umanak. On July 16, the leader Jean Duchesn...
Ganesh IV (Pabil). A French expedition led by Michel Feuillarade originally had nine members, including a photographer, but four climbers left the expedition in late September. The leader and three Sherpas tried to climb from Base Camp to the sout...
Mount Powell, East Face. Mount Powell (13,360 feet) raises its turret-like summit from the crest of the Sierra near Bishop. Unlike most Sierra peaks, Mount Powell is composed of slabby monolithic granite, more like that of Yosemite than the usual ...
Pabil (Ganesh IV), 1978. The climbers who reached the summit of Pabil (See account in A.A.J., 1979, page 270.) on October 20, 1978 were Hiroshi Yoshio, Takashi Tomita, Yoshiaki Hashimoto, Ichiro Yasuda, Masao Hashimoto, Tsuneo Shimoji, Kimiaki Aog...
Koh-i-Kesnikhan. Sepp Kutschera returned with a group of Austrians to try to climb Koh-i-Kesnikhan (Kishmi-Khan) (c. 23,600 feet), on which he had failed in 1962. This time they avoided much of the long climb on the west ridge and reached the ridg...
Fang (Varaha Shikhar) Attempt. Although the Fang (7647 meters, 25,088 feet) is the third highest summit in the Annapurna group, it has had less attention from climbers, possibly because its name does not have “Annapurna” in it. It lies southwest o...
Cantata Peak, North Ridge. On August 5 Ryan Campbell and I headed to the south fork of Eagle River, intent on checking out the unclimbed 4,000-foot north ridge of Cantata Peak (6,450'). After hiking six miles we gained a hanging valley above Eagle...
Mount Deborah, Alaska Range, Attempt on Northwest Ridge. Floyd Frank, Joe Smyth and I hoped to climb the narrow, ¾-mile-long, corniced ridge which extends northwest from Mount Deborah (12,339 feet), gaining access by a north ridge which joins it a...
In April, Clint Helander and I flew onto the Big River Glacier in the remote Revelation Mountains. The previous year we had attempted an unclimbed 9,250' peak we called the Ice Pyramid (AAJ 2009) but were turned back by deteriorating weather after...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. One of the highlights of the year for the Northwest was the first American Alpine Club annual meeting to be held in this area. It was hosted by the Cascade Section, but had several members from the Oregon Section assisting ...
Chacraraju Oeste. Swiss Xaver Bongard, Pierre-Alain Romagnoli, Frenchman Philippe Edouard Beaud and I set out at four A.M. on June 26. (They were to climb between the Yugoslav and the 1979 Yves Astier routes.—Editor. ) We traversed with headlamps ...
Bandaka Sakhi, Attempt on East Face. Dr. Geoff Cram, Lawrie Holliwell, Dave Yates, Dave Robbins, Tony Charlton, Dr. John Burslem and I as leader drove overland from England via Kabul to a village called Zebak in northeast Afghanistan at the beginn...
Maashey, Northwest Wall, Bydonov Route. The Rubtsov Mountain Club (D. Sergeev, leader, E. Vinnikov, A. Drakie) made an ascent of Maashey (4173m) via the P. Bydonov route on the northwest wall from July 31-August 1 in 24 hours of climbing. The asce...
Fitz Roy, Nearly Complete Ascent of the North Face, Tehuelche Route. More details are now available about the new Italian route on the north face of Fitz Roy, mentioned on page 203 of A.A.J., 1986. This lay between the 1984 Polish route and the Fr...
El Gran Trono Blanco, East Face (Direct), Sierra Juárez On December 27 to 29, Isabelle and Henri Agresti and Larry Gorbet climbed a new route on this 1600-foot face in Baja California. The route went almost all free, and the rock was excellent. Le...
Chaturangi Glacier. An expedition sponsored by the Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am President, climbed an unnamed virgin peak (20,682 feet) in the Chaturangi region on October 7. The summit climbers were Dr. Swapan Roy Choudhu...
Baruntse Attempt. Four West Germans under the leadership of Ulrich Weber were unable to climb Baruntse via the south ridge from the east col. They reached 6200 meters on October 17.Elizabeth Hawley
RAPPEL/LOWERING FAILURE—FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 22, two climbers were on a route behind Boulder Falls in Boulder Canyon. The leader, who had more than 20 years of rock climbing experience, topped out and placed an ...