Ascents above the Lower Muldrow Glacier, McKinley Range. Our group was unusual because of age. Leaving me out, but counting our "old men”—Harvard graduate students Harold Boeschenstein and Roger Dane, and the latter’s wife Lee—our average was only...
Latok III, Attempt. The members of the expedition were Alexander Odintsov (leader), Sergey Efimov, Alexander Rutchkin, Yuri Koshelenko, and Michail Bakin, the expedition doctor. Our Base Camp was established in a morainal pocket less than two hour...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, TetonsI, Doug Bringhurst (28), was climbing the Black Ice Couloir in Grand Teton National Park on August 9,1986, with Hal Throolin (37). We were alternating leads on the ice. We had climbed about ...
ROCKFALL, UNFORTUNATE POSITION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The SnazOn July 24, after a successful climb, our party of three was on the last (sizeable but sloping) ledge and final rappel of the route. I (Scott McGee, 39) was struck on the f...
Kassala area, various new routes. Lost in the Sudanese East, only a few kilometers from the border with Eritrea, a small island of a dozen granitic monoliths dominate the town of Kassala. Baboons and vultures live there. French climbers Matthieu N...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1953 saw undergraduate and graduate members of the D. M. C. climbing in many areas. It is of interest to note that in the western United States 8 members visited the Front Range and 2, the Sangre de Cri...
FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierThis is a report on the triple fatality on Mount Rainier in May of 1988. It turned into a media event. Fortunately, a summary of the essential details was prepared objectively by the ran...
Everest: De los Andes al Himalaya. Gastón Oyarzún. SEL Publicaciones, Santiago, 1984. 197 pages, black and white and color photographs.Reinhold Messner once said that the age of national Himalayan expeditions had come to an end. This assertion has...
Black Hills, South Dakota. There are few more readily accessible rock climbing regions than the fantastic spires in the Black Hills. Probably only a half-mile from the Needles Highway are the jagged Cathedral Spires, many of whose summits have bee...
Souvenirs from High Places, A History of Mountain Photography. Joe Bensen. Mountaineers Books: Seattle. 151 color and black-and-white photos. 144 pages. $35.00.Souvenirs from High Places: A History of Mountain Photography is a pleasing collection ...
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeMy partner and I (ages not recorded) were climbing White Whale (5.7) at Lumpy Ridge on July 15. It is considered by many as a fantastic three-pitch trad route. Neither of us...
H.W. Tilman, The Eight Sailing/Mountain-Exploration Books by H.W. Tilman. Published simultaneously in the U.K. and the USA by Diadem Books, London and The Mountaineers, Seattle. 1967. 16 pages of color photos, maps. 995 pages. $36.Tilman must be t...
Karakol region, Pik Slonenok, north face; Pik Karakolski, north face; Dzhigit, north face. The Terskey Ala-Too runs for 300km along the southern edge of Lake Issyk Kul. Its highest summits are located by the Karakol Valley. The range used to be a ...
Mt. Aiseo, northwest face. Having never climbed in the Greater Ranges before and with a fulltime job to start in September, I found the prospect of a first trip to the Himalaya hard to resist. Adriano Ferrero, Simon Lorenz, Aimone Ripa di Meana, O...
INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO A CREVASSE UNROPED— Washington, Forbidden Peak. About 2 p.m., Sunday, July 13, 1975, Steve Firebaugh (24), John Holland (31), Mary O’Coner (25), and Joe O’Coner (24) began a descent of Forbidden Peak after having su...
Mount McKinley’s South Face-1967Del Langbauer and Roman Laba Langbauer introduces the expedition:The story of McKinley’s South Face goes back several years. Its ridges and faces have been the scene of attempts by Americans, Italians, and Japanese....
K2, winter attempt on the north ridge. The Winter Netia K2 Expedition (Netia is the biggest Polish TV company and during the expedition there were daily prime-time television reports) included four experienced alpinists from CIS. It departed from ...
Thirteen long years have passed since I first tried to climb Cerro Torre from the north, with Guido Bonvicini and Adriano Cavallaro. We made our first attempt during October, and we managed to reach the base of the so-called English Dihedral, clim...
K2 Attempt. Our international team was led by Netherlander Wim Van Harskamp and further comprised Tim Styles, Matt Comesky, Michael White head, Bob Schelfont and me. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters after a two-week delay caused by the cust...
The Sirens of Mount SalisburyPeter A. SpeerTHE FAIRWEATHER MOUNTAINS lie on a peninsula in southeast Alaska at one point only 15 miles wide, where over a dozen peaks tower to a height of more than two miles between the waters of Glacier Bay and th...