FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

On August 29, 1985, Martin Cook reported to the rangers that his partner, Tammy Dziadek

(21), had taken a leader fall on Kor’s Flake Route of Sundance Buttress.

Cook said they were beginning the third pitch of Kor’s Flake Route on Sundance Buttress. Cook first tried to lead climb up a chimney that became so small he could not squeeze through. He climbed down to let Dziadek try to lead climb it. Dziadek could not squeeze through either and stepped out on the face to continue. With no protection available here, she fell from two meters above Cook. She first struck Cook, causing him to let go of the rope and continued to fall past Cook, bouncing off the rock several times. Cook was able to regrab the rope and stop Dziadek after a 25 meter fall. (He had a belay device.) Dziadek yelled for Cook to lower her, which he did, to a ledge that was about 50 meters from the ground. Cook then rappelled down to her and tied her to a loose rock. He then rappelled down to the ground and ran for help, calling Rocky Mountain National Park Dispatch at 1437

A technical rescue ensued involving 19 personnel. The victim had several injuries, including an open compound fracture. (Source: James Richardson, Ranger, Rocky Mountain National Park)

Analysis

Both Cook and Dziadek told me they were only beginning lead climbers for this level of difficulty. (Source: James Richardson, Ranger, Rocky Mountain National Park)