Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park Preserve, Mt. Kennedy; North Buttress, Ascent and Pilot's Death

Mt. Kennedy, north buttress, ascent and pilot's death. On July 10 Bill Pilling and I flew with Kurt Gloyer to climb the north buttress of Mt. Kennedy. We decided to carry over the top and return via a scenic and easy route over nearby Mt. Alversto...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Yukla, West Ridge

Mt. Yukla, West Ridge. Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks climbed the Complete West Ridge of Yukla in 2004 for the first ascent, after quite a few local attempts (including a near miss by Charlie Sassara and Marty Schmidt during the winter of 1983-84). ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Hueco Tanks: Climbing and Bouldering Guide, Second Edition

Hueco Tanks: Climbing and Bouldering Guide, Second Edition. John Sherman. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1996. 407 pages. $25.00.Comment: Possibly the most routes and boulder problems ever compiled between the covers of a single volume. Al...


Club Activities AAJ
Idaho Alpine Club

Idaho Alpine Club. A late and short season severely curtailed the outings and activities of the club in 1965. Ski tours into early July were held in the Teton Pass, Beartooth Pass, and Galena Summit areas. In the early part of the season climbing ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Switzerland, Unclimbed Tower Near Furka Pass

Unclimbed Tower Near Furka Pass. Starting from the Hotel Furkablick, one can reach the base of the tower in an hour’s hike following the trail to the Sidelen Glacier to the stream draining the glacier and then up left into the snow basin immediate...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shishapangma, Attempt

Shishapangma, Attempt. The main goal of the Slovenian Shishapangma 1997 autumn expedition was to climb the British route on the Shishapangma’s southwest face. Besides that, we planned an alpine style ascent and a ski descent from the top across th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, La Valdés group, Central Andes

Lo Valdés group, Central Andes. A number of steep walls of very good rock of the Cathedral massif (13,073 feet) known as Placas, have been a favorite ground for technical climbs in Central Chile. On April 30, the last and most difficult of these w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet

Aguja Guillaumet. After climbing Aconcagua by both the normal and the French south-face routes and five attempts on Fitz Roy driven back by bad weather, our Basque expedition reached one summit. In unstable weather in February, J. C. Tamayo climbe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Concaracá

Cancaracá. Graziano Bianchi, Carlo Nembrini, Romano Cattaneo, and Franco Robecchi of the Erba Section of the Club Alpino Italiano on July 27 ascended from Shilla by way of the Quebrada Ulta to Base Camp at 13,850 feet. They decided to attack the w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Parallel Worlds

Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Parallel Worlds. From July 2-August 1, Alex Lowe, Jared Ogden and Mark Synnott, with Darren Britto, Greg Thomas, Jim Surrette and Mike Graber operating as film crew and internet coordinators in Base Camp, establ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, A Further Note on Istor-o-Nal

A Further Note on Istor-o-Nal. The Japanese ascent, noted in A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, p. 465, may also have been, as Ichiro Yoshizawa points out, obviously of the very high, Mutch-Murphy peak, since the Japanese ladies were also similarly led astray by...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar Attempt

Lhotse Shar Attempt. Three Germans led by Werner Hof tried to climb the southeast ridge of Lhotse Shar. They got to a high point of 6700 meters on October 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast,Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections

Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections. The route climbed on Mt. Forel by the Spanish team in 2006 was the northeast ridge and not the southeast as statedin AAJ 2007 (pp. 204-5). Most likely this was a first ascent; the ridge seen...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Handhold Broke Off, Inadequate Protection, Missouri, Henley Wall

FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD BROKE OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONMissouri, Henley WallDave Ogrodowczyk (age unknown) was climbing at the Henley Wall in Henley, Missouri with two of his students and another friend. Both Dave and his belayer were wearing helm...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, European Everest Expedition

European Everest Expedition. The pre-monsoon European Everest expedition’s attempt to climb the southwest face ended in abject failure due mostly to poor leadership and dissention among the climbers. The leader, German Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Lempriere, Monashee Range

Mount Scheldt, Muskwa Range, Northern Rockies. After Dave Weins had landed us on June 11 north of Mount Roosevelt, we figured we had six weeks to spend in the Muskwa Range. In the next four days, we carried four weeks’ food and equipment to Base C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kande Hiunchli Attempt

Kande Hiunchuli Attempt. British climbers Garry Kennard and Mark Adams attempted to reach the northern of the two northeast summits of Kande Hiunchuli. [This peak has erroneously been called Sisne Himal by earlier expeditions. The A.A.J., 1981 on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Ojos del Salado, Scientific Determination of Highest Point

Ojos del Salado, scientific determination of highest point. Ojos del Salado is, at 6,879m (IGMA), the highest mountain in Chile, third highest in the Andes, and the highest active volcano in the world. It’s located on the Argentina-Chile frontier ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado: (2) Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado: (2) Rocky Mountain National Park. On 16 July 1951 a party of 13 from the Young Men's Christian Association Camp near Estes Park made a hiking trip from the Fall River Museum to Ypsilon Mountain. The party cut down the gorge between Mt. C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Morro Von Rosen (5,450m), Guanuqueando South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama

Martin Altamirano and Martin Castillo visited the Chani Group in northern Salta during March 2010. They first climbed several short rock routes and an icefall, then on the 27th put up a new rock route on Morro Von Rosen, which they named Guanuqu...

| Published 2011 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina