North America, United States, Oregon, Beacon Rock

Publication Year: 1985.

Beacon Rock. In June Bill Antal and I climbed the headwall of Pipeline on Beacon Rock, a discontinuous dihedral system of vertical and overhanging rock. The six pitches were on clean rock and consisted of relentless laybacking, stemming and jamming (III, 5.11). Antal and I also climbed the right Pipeline Headwall crack (5.11, A2) with 50 feet of aid. Jim Olsen, Mark Di Nucci and Mark Cartier returned after three attempts to free Pipe Dream (III, 5.12). Its crux is a 165-foot sustained thin crack with four 5.11 moves. Olsen accomplished the lead without falls, hanging or yo-yo’s. There were a variety of other climbs done in the central dihedral area of one to three pitches of 5.10 and 5.11 by Cartier, Olsen,JeffThomas, AnaryTechenorand others. On the right side of the Steppenwolf Headwall, I soloed a thin crack system over the roofs on the right of Steppenwolf Shield (IV, 5.10+ , A4 + ).

Robert McGown