New Climbs in The Needles. A party of four, Jim Parolini, Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, and I, climbed in this area during the past season. “The Arrowhead” was ascended from Martin Peak in a short but exposed class 5 climb. The first ascent of “Snift...
Giovanni Segantini, by Hans Zbinden. Schweizer Heimatbiicher 43/44. 60 pages, with ten plates in color and 31 in monotone. Bern: Verlag Paul Haupt, 1951. Price, $2.25.Although the artist Segantini is forever associated with the Engadine, he was Au...
Little Mac Spire, Southwest Arête. On our third day in the Southern Pickets, Art Huffman and I were looking for a route that did not involve scrambling up some rotten gully to get to solid rock. On August 15, after a two-hour approach from a camp ...
Central Chile. In March 1963 four University of Chile students led by C. Marangunic climbed in the group between the Christ the Redeemer and the Gemelos from a base in the Navarro valley and ascended as firsts: Navarro (14,961 feet), Zoológico (15...
Cerro Palpana. Palpana (6045 meters, 19,833 feet) is located 36 miles northwest of Ascotán railroad station, in Antofagasta province. J. Ambrús and C. Sepúlveda, from Calama, in October 13 made the first ascent of this peak. Two days later, a larg...
Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), east face, The Rose of No-Man's Land. The previously untouched east face and upper south ridge of Edgar rises 2,500m and features an objectively threatened approach couloir. The smaller southeast face to the left...
Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascents mentioned elsewhere in this journal, Mount McKinley was climbed by three parties, all of which used the West Buttress route. On May 11 John Graham, leader, U. S. National Park Ranger Richard Stenmark and the ...
Hut Tower, Southeast Face, Boy’s World. From June 12-13, Bob Semborski and I climbed a new route on Hut Tower in 30 hours round-trip from base camp. To the best of our knowledge, this is the fourth line on the formation and has the same approach a...
Alpes et Neige 100 Sommets à Ski by Philippe and Claude Traynard. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1965. About 220 pages; 101 full-page photographs about 7½" x 9". No price stated.This book by the Traynards contains 101 one-page descriptions of winter ascents i...
FALL ON ICE OR FALLING ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEWashington, Mt. AdamsWilliam B. Fryberger, Jr., (36) was killed early on September 30 when he apparently slipped on hard ice and fell about 100 feet while climbing alone on Mount Adams.Seven members of th...
RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR SUNG KNOT CAME UNDONENorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn February 1, Joel McSwain (21) fell in the Amphitheater area while attempting to rappel after setting up a top rope anchor. According to his climbing partners, he ...
Bublimotin Attempt. Our team consisted of "Ladyfmger" (Bublimotin) veteran Dave Towse (Brit), seasoned alpinists Gavin Jordan (Brit), James Darnell (Southern boy), and me. After a long, dangerous, and somewhat unsuccessful approach, James and Gav ...
Spokane Mountaineers. The club’s most important undertaking was the first ascent of Mount Cooper (10,135 feet) in Idaho and is reported in more detail by W. S. Boulton elsewhere in this Journal. Official club climbs in the Cascades included Stuart...
Upernivik Island. West Greenland. The expedition sponsored by the Milan section of the Club Alpino Italiano visited Upernivik in Umanak Bay, 72° N. Lat. The eight members were G. Della Torre, leader, T. Albani, A. Di Benedetto, G. Farassino, A. Vi...
Wishmaker, first free ascent. In September Topher Donahue and I masde the first free ascent onsight of Wishmaker (IV 5.11+R [5.10X]), a route just to the right of Lost Cities, in the Hairdo Gully on the north side of the canyon. Pike Howard made t...
Hemsedal and Laerdal Valleys, Various Ascents. On March 13, Mark Wilford and I flew to Oslo for an ice climbing adventure. We climbed approximately 4,000 feet of ice over a seven- day period. Our first major climb was in the Hemsedal Valley. The H...
Mount Gerdine. Two previous ascents of Gerdine were made from the east, by Paul Crews, Sr. and Jr., Rod Wilson, George Wichman and Lowell Thomas, Jr. in 1963 and by Japanese in 1967. On April 19 Lowell Thomas, Jr. landed Mike Frank, Jim Sprott, To...
Wyoming, Devil’s Tower. On 6 September John Peterson (52), Dr. Roland Fleck, David Johnston, and David Peterson were climbing Devil’s Tower. Peterson was standing on top of ”Leaning Tower” column belaying Dr. Fleck some 60 feet above through a fix...
San Rafael Swell, various routes. On January 30 Lance Bateman and I climbed a new route on the Eastern Reef of the San Rafael Swell. Dreamy Clouds (7 pitches, III 5.11d R A0) climbs the center of the “Great White Wall,” left of Three Finger Canyon...
Cordillera de Huancavelica. The Oxford University Exploration Club sent a scientific party into the mountainous region between Huancayo and Huancavelica during the months of July and August. The leader, J. K. Marshall, and J. R. Lloyd studied the ...