Footprints on the Peaks: Mountaineering in China. Zhou Zheng and Liu Zhenkai. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, Washington, 1995. $30.00.Footprints on the Peaks is a long-overdue and badly-needed counterweight to a decidedly Anglo-centric view of the histo...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face. Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) has now been climbed three times, each time by an expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer and each time by a different route. Each ascent has been followed by the most awesome dissent bet...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. In 1982 the Indian Military Academy completed fifty years of its existence. As a part of the Golden Jubilee, a commemorative expedition, led by me and consisting of its alumni past and present, was organized to scale Kamet and...
From the Sea to P 12,300Walter R. Gove and William PillingAPPROACHED FROM THE WEST, the northern Fairweather Range rises out of the Pacific Ocean. Paralleling the shoreline is an old terminal moraine which acts as a natural dam that forms a large ...
Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding. On October 25 Forest McBrian, Dave Jordan, and I established a new line on Mix-up Peak in North Cascades National Park. The route, which climbs the northeast face of the north summit, is partially visible from Ca...
The Peaks of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley. While there has been a recent surge in publicity about the Karavshin Ak-Su Valley, fewer American climbers are aware of the alpine rock walls of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley. We here print a number of photos of the...
Attempt on Huantsán, Ascents of Yahuarraju, Santa Cruz Norte, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Blanca. The expedition of the Nagano branch of the All-Japan Mountaineering Association was led by Eiichi Murai, with Yasuo Yokochi as deputy leader, and com...
Mt. Alverstone, west face. In early May Simon Yates and I climbed a new route on the 6,000 west face of Mt. Alverstone (14,565'/4,439m). We knew very little about the mountain, except that the west face was huge, and apparently only two routes had...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 4, Greg Smith and Melissa Malm (28) were climbing a route on Prospectors’ Mountain (3370 meters) named the “Upper Northeast Face” (II, F6).Around 1430 at the 3150-meter level, Smith led a traversing...
Cerro de las Cuevas. Ancient and Modern Ascents. Searching for the legendary Inca “city” of Aconquija, an expedition of the Club Andino Mercedario (San Juan, Argentina) travelled to Concepción in Tucumán Province, reached the junction of the river...
Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, by Walter A. Starr, Jr. Fourth edition, xii+130 pages, with a foreword by Francis P. Farquhar, map in pocket at back. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1951.In a Prefatory Note, David R. Brower, C...
Two First Ascents in the Bolivian AndesJoseph P. PremIN Bolivia1 the Cordillera de los Andes that stretches through thewhole continent of South America reaches its greatest width, although not its greatest height. It consists essentially of the We...
Snow Dome, The Real Ice Porn to serac band. On October 13 Dana Ruddy, Cory Richards, and I climbed a waterfall ice route (800m, WI 5+) on the north face of Snow Dome. It is the fifth route on Snow Dome, and the first on the north face proper, arou...
Life Is Meeting by John Hunt (Lord Hunt of Llanfair Waterdine).London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1978. 286 pages, 28 photographs and11 maps. Price £ 6.95.This book tells the story of how John Hunt has managed to combine outstanding mountaineering with...
The Free Noseof North Chasm View WallPuzzling it out among the birds in Colorado’s Black Canyon of the Gunnison by Jeff AcheyRocks can possess a strange charisma. Any tourist can vaguely sense this power, but to a climber, with his or her specific...
Mallory and Irvine Second-Step Clues. When honorary member, Shi Zhan Chun, of the Chinese Mountaineering Association spoke at the Annual Meeting of the American Alpine Club in Los Angeles in December 1981, he revealed that the Chinese Everest Expe...
(d) ACCIDENTS IN MEXICOThe Club de Exploraciones de Mexico reports that since 1935 there have been about 100 deaths due to various types of accidents on the great volcanoes and mountain crags of Mexico. At least 30 of these have been on the volcan...
Washington, Old Snowy Mt. On 13 September Dale R. Cowen (58), Mary Ellen Cowen (55), Bernice Stearns (43), Una Davies (65), and Garnett E. Cannon (62), had been out for one day and were on their second day. They had a good night’s sleep and adequa...
From the village of Pelechuco, we (Daria Mamica-Galka, Jakub Galka, Wojciech Chaladaj, and Marcin Kruczyk) hired five mules and trekked to the Huancasayani Valley. To the best of our knowledge the valley had been the target of two previous exped...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn Wednesday, March 25, 1987, my girlfriend and I (25) arrived in Joshua Tree for two days of climbing. Our first route was a rather long and tedious 5.7....