The Free Noseof North Chasm View WallPuzzling it out among the birds in Colorado’s Black Canyon of the Gunnison by Jeff AcheyRocks can possess a strange charisma. Any tourist can vaguely sense this power, but to a climber, with his or her specific...
Mallory and Irvine Second-Step Clues. When honorary member, Shi Zhan Chun, of the Chinese Mountaineering Association spoke at the Annual Meeting of the American Alpine Club in Los Angeles in December 1981, he revealed that the Chinese Everest Expe...
(d) ACCIDENTS IN MEXICOThe Club de Exploraciones de Mexico reports that since 1935 there have been about 100 deaths due to various types of accidents on the great volcanoes and mountain crags of Mexico. At least 30 of these have been on the volcan...
Washington, Old Snowy Mt. On 13 September Dale R. Cowen (58), Mary Ellen Cowen (55), Bernice Stearns (43), Una Davies (65), and Garnett E. Cannon (62), had been out for one day and were on their second day. They had a good night’s sleep and adequa...
From the village of Pelechuco, we (Daria Mamica-Galka, Jakub Galka, Wojciech Chaladaj, and Marcin Kruczyk) hired five mules and trekked to the Huancasayani Valley. To the best of our knowledge the valley had been the target of two previous exped...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn Wednesday, March 25, 1987, my girlfriend and I (25) arrived in Joshua Tree for two days of climbing. Our first route was a rather long and tedious 5.7....
Kohe-Farzand (P 6196) and (P 6096). The Gifu University expedition was in the Pegish Darrah in the Wakhan. It was composed of Yoshio Hirabayashi, leader, Hiroshi Fujii, Nobutaka Suzuki, Toshiyasu Umehara, Taiten Kotoo, Osamu Tokunaga and the Afgha...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Salathé WallOn October 13, Martin Klinger (26) of Germany was attempting to lead the first pitch of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. He was with a party ...
Post War Mountain TrainingLT. COLONEL ERWIN G. NILSSONAt the close of World War II the United States Army had a large number of soldiers highly skilled and experienced in mountain warfare. These people were largely grouped in the 10th Mountain Div...
AAC, New York Section. The New York Section, in the interest of serving its rapidly growing membership, continued to expand the number and frequency of its activities in 1997. After hosting the December 1996 Annual Meeting of the Club, the section...
STRANDED - INABILITY TO REMOVE ANATOMICAL PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Bishops TerraceOn April 12, Tim Barthel (51), Jon Becker (50), Brant Herrett (55), and I, Steve Latif (46), decided to climb Bishops Terrace, a one-pitch 5.8 at the C...
Sky Island, by Weldon F. Heald. Princeton, New Jersey: D. Van Nostrand Company, Inc., 1967. 166 pages, 65 photographs, 16 line drawings, and 2 sketch maps on inside covers. Price: $5.95.This book will appeal to mountain climbers and others who, na...
Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha, Shkurigal Valley, Bashgal, Central Hindu Kush. Our expedition, M. Hore, K.J. MacDermott, R.C. Pelly, G.C. Taylor, P.S. Wesson and I, drove from England to Afghanistan in 13 days. After spending a week in Kabul, getting fina...
Bhrigupanth, West Couloir and North Ridge Attempt. I was able in the pre-monsoon to climb the west couloir in one day, though it was a long one. The climbing was snow and ice up to 70°, with a bit of mixed climbing near the top. I dropped over the...
Shishapangma, Southwest Face, Attempt and Tragedy. The idea behind this trip was to go over to the Himalaya with a group of friends and ski an 8000-meter peak. About half of the 14 8000ers have been skied by various lines, with the world-wide tota...
Unexpected GiftsA season in Patagoniaby Rolando Garibotti, Club Andino BarilocheI arrived in Chalten in mid-November with many intentions, but also with the willingness to let nature dictate my decisions. In an area that fosters some serious weath...
Climbs in the Northern Waputiks(Canadian Rocky Mountains)H. S. Kingman and J. M. THoringtonTHE day of the packtrain is passing. At least, it seems so as one watches the working gangs on the road to Bow Lake. Where once the trail wound through the ...
Ogre, second ascent and Ogre III, first ascent. On July 21 the team of Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf, and me stood on the summit of the Ogre (7285m). Having succeeded on the first ascent of the extremely difficult Ogre III (ca 6800m) on July 1, we concen...
The Confessions of Aleister Crowley, an Autobiography, New York, Bantam Books, 1971, 1058 pages, 32 pages of photographs, $1.95 (also in hardcover, Hill and Wang edition.)When Aleister Crowley died in 1947, the London Press printed an unusual obit...
I first visited the Kyzyl Asker region in August 2007. We set up base camp at 3,750m, in the valley leading to the Kyzyl Asker Glacier, but as we knew nothing about the area, we spent much time exploring. Nearly all the ascents we made from the We...