Muzcol Range, Various Ascents. It was reported that a 13-member EWP expedition traveled to the eastern Pamir of Tadjikistan to explore the remote and infrequently visited Muzcol Range. The expedition recorded five first ascents: Snow Leopard Peak ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HATUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, PentapitchOn May 19, Michael Thurgood (24), Alex Santy (17), and BJ Huff (19), were climbing Pentapitch, a 5.8 route on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Mic...
Sunchuli Valley Area, New Routes. Italians Marcello Sanguineti (Club Alpino Italiano Chiavari) and Alessandro Bianchi (CAI-ULE Genova) returned to Bolivia for the second year running to climb three hard new routes in the southern Apolobamba, a.k.a...
Bugaboo Spire, Divine Intervention; Snowpatch Spire, Bugaburl; Pigeon Spire, FFA of Cleopatra's Alley. On August 1 I joined Chris Brazeau for a trip to the Bugaboos. Our first objective was an incomplete aid line to the right of the Midnight Route...
Kangchungtse Tragedy. Nobody knows if this French expedition put anyone on the summit of Kangchungtse or Makalu II or not. Four climbing members made a bid for the summit on November 1 but they turned back late in the afternoon when Denis Jeanvoin...
FALL ON ROCK–DISLODGED ROCK, OFF ROUTE, FATIGUECalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Clyde MinaretOn Saturday, August 16th, Justin Schwartz of Belmont, CA, and Steve Sosa, of Los Angeles, CA, set off to climb the South Face of 12,300-foot Clyde Minaret. Just...
A Visit to Chamonix in 1857(The Diary of Fred Trower, Jr.)In 1857 Fred Trower, Jr., was about 14 years old. Toward the end of July he accompanied his father, mother, sister and a Mr. Winter on a first tour of the Continent, going by Antwerp, Dresd...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The winter McKinley party composed of Jacques Batkin (36), Gregg Blomberg (25), Arthur L. Davidson (22), John S. Edwards (35), Raymond Genet (35), David P. Johnston (24), Shiro Nishimae (31), and George Wichman (39), flew to ...
In the middle of July my wife Tanja and I were dropped off below the famous walls of Ulamertorssuaq and Nalumatorsoq. We had shared the boat with a British expedition traveling to the head of the fjord, where we would later join them. We survived ...
On June 5,1986, a seven member Korean-American Expedition flew into the Kahiltna Glacier to climb the Cassin Ridge. The party planned on separating into three groups with a party of two and three attempting the Cassin while two remained at a 3075 ...
ROB HALL1961-1996Mount Everest dealt a particularly savage blow last year. On May 12, Rob Hall died on the South Summit of Everest after becoming incapacitated on the descent from his fifth time on the summit. During May 10 and 11, Rob’s Adventure...
Mount Shuksan via Nooksack Ridge. Although Mount Shuksan has been climbed by so many different routes, the bastion from Nooksack Tower to the summit plateau, between the Nooksack and Price Glaciers on the northeast face, was unexplored territory. ...
FALL ON ROCK – FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, OFF ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Phantom TowerOn April 11, a party of three were going to attempt the South Face of the Phantom Tower, a 5.8 gear route in the Ghost River. The leader (20)...
Aguja de la S, The Art of War. With rumors of a weather window opening, Crystal Davis-Robbins, a 24-year-old also from the Durango area, and I frantically schlepped loads to our high camp at Niponino. A few Canadians, not as influenced by the bad ...
Ibrahim Brakk, Free Kashmir. Todd Offenbacher, Nils Davis, Sean Isaac, and friends Sean and Shelly Huisman and Hermein Freriksen, arrived in Islamabad on July 7. Sean, Todd and I had decided, after a chance meeting in Canada in 1999, to join force...
1951-041959-0420052005USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock4237521737Snow2235346337Ice24915850River14300Unknown22901Ascent or DescentAscent2853578619Descent2192362489Unknown2481221OtherNB70Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2958283497Slip on snow or ice950207...
A Rock Climbers Guide to Pinnacles National Monument. Paul G. Gagner. Taylor-Powell Printing Co., Fort Collins, 1983. 146 pages, 14 black and white photographs, 24 maps (including topos). $12.00.The Pinnacles has recently seen a radical advance in...
Mt. Robson from, the East. “God made the mountains, but good God! who made Robson?” exclaimed Conrad Kain, who led the first ascent in 1913. It was with high hopes, but with bleakly realistic expectations that Dave Bernays, Craig Merrihue, and Dmi...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our group was composed of Italo Valle, Gino Casassa, Rodrigo Mújica, Giorgio Cattoni and me as doctor and leader. The permission for our original objective, Shisha Pangma, was cancelled. After a period of acclimatization near E...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE FROM ANCHOR POINT-APPARENT ANCHOR FAILURE DUE TO EXTERNAL FORCESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn April 29, Alan Rooney (38) and Jonathan Morrow (28) fell to their deaths while attempting an alpine climb on the nor...