Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Ascents in Avalanche Canyon

Ascents in Avalanche Canyon. In June and July Graham and Mary Ann Matthews climbed from Avalanche Canyon. They made the ascent of an unnamed pinnacle east of Mt. Wister, quite obvious from the highway but evidently not previously climbed. A fine c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest, Polish Ascent and Tragedy

Everest, Polish Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition led by Eugeniusz Chrobak climbed Mount Everest up the western side from Nepal. The 19- member team included 10 Poles, 4 Americans, 3 Mexicans, a Canadian and a Briton. They established five camps a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt

Manaslu Attempt. Five Swiss led by Franco Dellatorre tried to climb Manaslu by the northeast face. They reached a high point of 6415 meters on April 6.Elizabeth Hawley


Book Reviews AAJ
Chaltel (Fitzroy)

Chattel (Fitzroy). Carlos Capellas, editor. Servicio General de Información de Montaña, Barcelona, 1985. 46 pages, 13 black-and-white photographs 22 line drawings and sketch maps. Paper. Pesetas 300.The Cordillera Real has slowly been drawing grea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Tierra del Fuego, Cordillera Alvear

Cordillera Alvear, Tierra del Fuego. On March 4, 1971 Rod Saunders, Echardt Drushke and Rick Hoare made the first ascent of Cerro Alvear (4500 feet), the highest peak in the Cordillera Alvear, some ten miles northeast of Cerro Olivia. On March 6 S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Dragontail, Triple Couloir Route

Dragontail, Triple Couloir Route. In May, 1974 Leslie Nelson, Bill Joiner and I climbed the “hidden couloir” of the Wickwire-Stanley route, then traversed left into and up the prominent couloir in the center of the face and finally climbed the cou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Spantik Attempt and Tragedy

Spantik Attempt. Another group of Germans led by Herbert Streibel failed to reach the summit of Spantik.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Trango Tower Attempt

Trango Tower Attempt. A British expedition gave up their attempt on the Trango Tower after Martin Boysen came close to being the victim of an unusual accident some 600 feet below the summit. On a difficult free and aid pitch, Boysen jammed his leg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Shipton's Expedition to the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap

Shipton’s Expedition to the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. This expedition was primarily a scientific one and as such had no definite climbing programme. The members of the party were E. E. Shipton, leader, G. C. Bratt, surveyor, P. W. Ja...


Accident Reports ANAM
Montana, Glacier National Park

Montana, Glacier National Park—On August 16, 1956, about 6:00 p.m., Mr. Lino Graglia (35) fell while running on a scree slope and suffered a simple fracture of the humerus (upper arm) of the left arm. His wife assisted him off the mountain—Mt. Hen...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Provinces of France

The Provinces of France, edited by Doré Ogrizek for the “World in Color Series.” 508 pages, with many pictorial maps and other illustrations in color, appendices and index. London: McGraw-Hill Publishing Co., Ltd., 1951. Price, $4.20.Uniform with ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Payachatas, Northern Chile

Payachatas, Northern Chile. An expedition of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago Section, traveled in October to Africa and then to the mountain towns of Putre and Murmuntane. From a 14,500-foot Base Camp on the northeastern shores of the great lak...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de Ansilta

Cordillera de Ansilta. After being forbidden by the Chileans to climb on the mountains above Santiago, three men and two women from Trieste climbed in the Cordillera de Ansilta. They were Walter Mejak, leader, Bianca de Beaco, Fioretta Tarloa, Jos...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Moose's Tooth, Ham and Eggs, Second Ascent and Trade Routifications

Moose’s Tooth, Ham and Eggs, Second Ascent and Trade Routification. A picture of the 3,000-foot south face of the Moose’s Tooth in a recent Climbing magazine article about the Ruth Gorge caught my attention. There was a narrow steep couloir on the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mt. Baker

FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE Washington, Mt. BakerOn October 6, William Byl (43) and Frank Forester (48) fell 20-40 feet into a crevasse on the Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker. They were roped when one of them slipped and pulled the other one wit...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Although the great majority of climbing was done on weekends at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and at the Mississippi Palisades in Illinois, several groups managed to range farther afield. In the spring one of our members j...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, El Canónigo, Altar Group

El Canónigo, Altar Group. The Italian Marino Tremonti returned to the Altar Group, where he had made in 1963 the first ascent of the Obispo, the highest peak in the group. This year with Ferdinando Gaspard, C. and L. Lorenzi he made the first asce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall Free

Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall free. In spring 2003 Allan Porter and I completed a new line on North Chasm View Wall, beginning on the Journey Home route and finishing on the Cruise, climbing the smooth shield between those two major crack l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Chilkat and Takhinsha Mountains

Chilkat and Takhinsha Mountains. In June and July, Chuck Warren, Gil Dewart, Walt Price, Marty Mushkin, Ed Kerwin, Linda Bolte, George Barnett and I visited these mountains southwest of Haines. Following a helicopter ride up the Kicking Horse Rive...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Trisul

Trisul. Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) is now being climbed frequently. Two commercial groups were successful, one Italian led by Alberto Re and a German one led by Günter Kampf. An Indian expedition under the leadership of Samir Kumar Guha als...