British Columbia, Mt. Tomyhoi. On 9 July Hans (27) and Max Lustenberger (28), and Francois Malden had left camp at the 5,200 foot level. On the ascent one slingless ice axe was lost in the Lustenberger party. The Lustenberger party was joined by others for the ascent at the 5,500 foot level. For the descent, Lustenberger party stayed as much as possible to Rock Ridge route and of course had to return to their camp site for camping equipment. The others elected to descend by way of the glacier. First and third man on Lustenberger rope took the two ice axes leaving the less experienced middleman without an ice axe. First man slipped on hard snow pulling the others with him. There was a good run- out. Unfortunately, third man on rope (Hans Lustenberger) struck a protruding rock which fractured his leg. Party stopped there.

Source: Mary Wells, Rescue group—Vancouver.

Analysis: At the time of the accident, two members of the accident party did not have very much experience in Canada. More experience on snow could have helped to avoid the accident.