Annapurna 1, Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Kim Teuk-Hee formed the season's largest expedition of eight members and nine Nepalese in a winter attempt on the north face of Annapurna (8091 meters). On December 2, at the begi...
East Peak of Mount Stutfield. It was the assumption of many that, with the ascent of the Center Peak of Mount Bryce in 1961, the last 11,000- foot peak of the Canadian Rockies had been climbed. Bill Hooker and I were therefore rather surprised to ...
Mount Case, Glacier Bay National Monument. Peter H. Robinson and I ascended this graceful peak in July via the first couloir north of the summit on the west side in a 16-hour day from Dirt Glacier outwash. The difficulties we encountered with the ...
CANADAFALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Louise FallsOn January 20, a number of parties were climbing on this popular multi-pitch water ice Grade 4+ climb near Lake Louise. One of the parties high on the route dislodged a larg...
Icecap Crossing and Various Ascents. It was reported that in July and August, Douglas Campbell and Malcolm Thorburn crossed the icecap from Narssarssuaq to the western/central icecap, making several ascents of peaks up to 2000 meters at a grade of...
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The 1964 climbing season was an active one for Vancouver’s British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Fifty-two trips of varying difficulty were scheduled, and a 10% increase over last year’s attendance presage...
Changabang Attempt. Our group consisted of five Australians, Charles Cuthbertson, Martin Hendy, Malcolm Noble, Andrew Henderson and me. Unfortunately we did not reach the summit of Changabang but were turned back about 125 feet from the top by atr...
Yosemite Peak (Peak 9980), East Face. This little-climbed peak between the forks of Cascade Canyon has an impressive east face resembling some of the giant formations in Yosemite Valley. A route was climbed up the extreme left side (Weeks’ Chimney...
P 5297, Jurau Group. Italians from Trieste, Renzo Zambonelli, leader, Luciano Cergol, Piero Gerin, Sandra Matjak, Tullio Piemontese, Fulvio Cekada and Antonio Alberti, established Base Camp at 13,775 feet below Juraucocha in early August. They est...
Mount Bennington, North Face, Ramparts. Among the many spectacular high mountain walls in the magnificent Ramparts is the northern face of Mount Bennington, 10,750 feet, the third highest peak in this area. Henry Mather and I spent several days ne...
Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Cerro Eléctrico Principal, Cerro 30° Aniversario Traverse and Attempt on Fitz Roy. My husband Gino Buscaini and I had our Base Camp at the Piedra del Fraile on the Río Eléctrico from December 13, 1981 to February 9. Th...
Mt. Hooker, Pay to Play. On their first trip to the Wind River Range in late August, Chattanooga climbers Jim Hewett and Neeld “Off the Couch” Messier established a new route on the Northeast Face of Mount Hooker. In nine free pitches and four of ...
Trisul. A Gujarat expedition from Ahmedabad climbed Trisul (23,360 feet). Their Base Camp was on the Trisul Glacier near the southern slopes, between the trident and the Bethartoli peaks. Camp II was at 22,000 feet. On June 23 Miss Nandini Patel, ...
Annapurna, Second Ascent. The British Nepalese Army Annapurna Expedition assembled in Kathmandu on March 16, personnel and stores having been air-freighted from the United Kingdom by the RAF. We were Major Bruce M. Niven, overall leader, Lieutenan...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (2) Mt. Rainier. A dual accident occurred on Mt. Rainier in the early summer of 1948. J. H. Hagood was crossing a six-foot snow bridge, which collapsed. He was precipitated into the crevasse and buried under snow. He...
RAPPEL FAILUREIllinois, Mississippi Palisades Park, Sentinel RockIn November, Steven Wallace (27) died in hospital following his 40 foot fall from Sentinel Rock, from which he was rappelling. No other details were available, but as this is an area...
Karambar Region, Various Ascents. The Montecchio Maggiore section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent from July 22 to August 27 in the Karambar Valley north of Chitral. They found no indication in their documents of any preceding alpine activity in ...
Mount Eisenhower, Southeast Tower, West Face Direct. A new route on the west face of Castle Tower (the southeast tower of Mount Eisenhower) was ascended by Ed Peyer and me on July 1. The climb began in a fair-sized couloir below the center of the ...
Hell Roaring Canyon, 1984 and 1985. On October 31, 1984 I completed the first ascent of the Witch, one of several Wingate Towers, roughly a quarter of the way up the canyon near its south rim. The route, Midnight Rider (III, 5.7, A3), is highly ae...
Mount Corcoran, Southwest Face. A long approach up the south fork of Tuttle Creek leads to the eastern side of Mount Corcoran’s towers. On May 2 Hooman Aprin, Jack Roberts, and I tried a route on the east face of the second tower of Corcoran, but ...