FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION, NOT WEARING CRAMPONSColorado, North Cheyenne Canyon, Hully GullyOn January 30, moments before falling 170 feet to his death, experienced climber Reid Judson Hunt (32) asked two climbers at a popular ice wall in southwes...
ARTHUR BECKET LAMB 1880-1952Arthur Lamb, a member of our Club for 29 years, died suddenly on 15 May 1952 while on his way home from Harvard Chemical Laboratory. He was born in Attleboro, Massachusetts, of New England parentage and studied at Tufts...
Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger, Huber writes, “I [cannot say] if they climbed it or not. I just will say, what I saw and found (and didn’t find)…but for sure I will have an opinionHuber notes the conspi...
Ascents from the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers, Purcell Range. In August, Douglas and Betty Anger, Arthur and Claudia Maki and Bob and Peggy West visited the central Purcell Range, climbing. from a base camp at the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers. Thr...
VARIOUS FALLS – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST WHILE GLISSADING, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS (3), OUT OF CONTROL FALLCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn January 18, a climber in Avalanche Gulch attempted to glissade on hard snow with crampons on, beginning at 11,500 fee...
1963. Everest West Ridge TraverseEd WebsterFor Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, such a tentsite—if you could call it that—couldn’t have been a more thrilling perch for the night. From 27,200 feet up this prominent couloir on Everest’s north face, a...
Tagoujimt n’ Tsouiant, La Bas. Climbing has been a wonderful vehicle for seeing and enjoying some of the planet’s less-known nooks and corners. There are experiences that leave one gratified and richer from the journey. The Atlas Mountain village ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HASTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn the morning of April 25, 1992, Craig E. and Rob G. registered out for a climb of the eight-pitch route “Red Shirt,” about 270 meters high and rated 5.7, on Mount...
Cerro Torre and Torre Egger Attempts, 1992. Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Adriano Cavallaro and Guido Bonvicini attempted in October, 1992 to climb the 1959 Egger-Maestri route on Cerro Torre. They climbed about 600 meters in two days, but the obje...
Buttress/Ridge, Variation. After alpine- style ascents of Cholatse and Lobuje East, Fredrick Wilkinson and I, both 20, descended to Thado Khosi from the Gokyo region of the Khumbu Himalaya in early November. We hoped to do either a new route on th...
Mountain Unity. Mountain Unity International (www.mountainunity.org) is a non-profit organization providing marketing, media, and communications support for any tour operator organizing expeditions to Afghanistan, though particularly the Wakhan Co...
Mount Marcus Baker, Chugach Range. Mount Marcus Baker (13,176 feet), the highest peak of the Chugach Range, was first climbed in 1938 by Bradford Washburn and party. (A.A.J., 1939, 3:3, pp. 255-264.) Later unsuccessful attempts to climb the mounta...
Grand Teton National Park (3)—On August 31, 1954, Timothy Kelly (22), with three companions, was descending from Mt. Owen via a snow- filled couloir. Kelly tested the snow and then glissaded in a standing position. He picked up considerable speed ...
Texas and Arch Canyon Area, El Cerro Del Perm. This remote tower is located on the south side of a canyon below the junction at Arch Canyon and Texas Canyon in the area of Natural Bridges National Monument, south of Moab. The first ascent was made...
Chaukhamba II, first ascent of the southwest face. One summer day in 2002 my friends and I decided on the Garhwal as our fall expedition destination. Researching it, we chose Chaukhamba II, the most remote summit of the region. With the help of a ...
In late July, Ann Piersall and I explored several drainages in the northeastern section of the At Bashi. A recipient of AAC research grants, Piersall was living in Kyrgyzstan and studying local perceptions of glacial retreat in the rural communiti...
Mount St. Helens EruptionMaynard M. MillerSUNDAY, May 18, 1980 … a magnificently clear, bright morning. Three rope teams of four persons each had set out before dawn to reach the summit of 12,307-foot (3751 meters) Mount Adams, Washington State’s ...
Mount Everest. In 1952 the Swiss made two strong attacks on the Nepalese side of Mount Everest, one before and the other after the monsoon.Following the route discovered by Dr. Charles S. Houston and H. William Tilman in 1950, and unsuccessfully a...
K7, south face new route and repeat of Japanese Route; Nayser Brakk, southeast ridge, Tasty Talking, No More Tasty Talking; Kapura, west ridge; K7 West, attempt. The expedition included Americans Steve House (leader), Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Je...
The East Wall of Upper Yosemite FallRoyal RobbinsFlanked by steep walls of granite, the Upper Yosemite Fall springs from a notch cut deep by Yosemite Creek and plunges 1400 feet to a great basin formed by glaciers and millions of years of hydrauli...