Devistan. In May and June the Brown University Expedition visited the Nanda Devi region of the central Himalaya. The trek in was from Reni to Dibrugheta, staying within the Rishi Gorge and crossing the river several times. From Dibrugheta the stan...
Mount Moran, First Winter Ascent. In recent years several parties have fruitlessly attempted the winter ascent of Mount Moran. During the past winter success finally came to a group from Salt Lake City: Tom Q. Stevenson, George Lowe, Tom Spencer, ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 19 and 20, 1983, the 16 members of the Sierra Denali Expedition flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The expedition planned on climbingthe Wes...
Zebak Region. The Manchester University Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of John Vogel, Richard Thomas, Ian Nightingale, Andrew Hamilton, Ian Grace and me as leader. All climbing was done from two camps in the Qalat valley near Eshkashem. Attemp...
Cerro Torre, West Face, Winter Ascent. In July, Thomas Ulrich, David Fasel, Stefan Siegrist and I climbed the 1974 West Face route of Cerro Torre. Rumors of more stable weather conditions and the fact that we would avoid summer crowds motivated us...
Discoveries in Alaska (1896)W. A. Dickey[The following article, made available to us by Bradford Washburn, appeared in The Sun on Sunday, 24 January 1897. The headlines under the title read: “The Unknown Region North of Cooks Inlet Entered / Explo...
On August 22 the most recent and most difficult route on the Grand Teton was established by Mike Lowe and me. This excellent climb, rated IV, F9, A2, ascends the most obvious and direct line leading from Valhalla Canyon to the summit of the Enclos...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North FaceOn August 15 at 0530, four Calgary-based climbers started their ascent up the trail to Mount Athabasca’s north face. The overnight low at 2,3 50 metres, recorded at a nearby wea...
JOSEPH NISBET LeCONTE1870 -1950The LeContes, father and son, exerted an influence upon the advancement of science and the love of mountains on the Pacific Coast that can hardly be matched. It began in 1869, when Joseph LeConte came from Georgia to...
Mt. Proboscis, Piton Karmik and various repeats. The story starts from a discussion we had with Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in Greenland, in the Tasermiut Fjord, in 1998. They told us about Proboscis and their route Great Canadian Knife, and we le...
Snow on the Equator, by H. W. Tilman. 265 pages, with 20 illustrations and 4 maps. New York : Macmillan, 1938. Price $3.00. Writers of travel and mountaineering books are especially apt to be single book authors, for to produce a second successful...
Alaska has been called the Great White North and the Last Frontier, a land where tough, cold peaks are scaled by gruff, bold climbers. So why was I a thousand feet up a new route sweating through my T-shirt? Sun-burned eyes squinted through the wh...
Everest: The West Ridge, by Thomas F. Hornbein. Photographs by members of the American Mount Everest Expedition and its leader, Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Introduction by William E. Siri. Edited by David Brower. Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1966. 200 p...
My 23-year-old son Denali felt compelled to climb his namesake. While he was studying in San Francisco, he told me over the phone (I being in New Zealand) that he was climbing Denali with or without me. I told him that I would get clients right aw...
Ruwenzori proved a fertile climbing ground early this year when Miss U. Cameron with the Courmayeur guides, Edouard Bareux and Elisée Croux, climbed Mt. Speke, Alexandra Peak of Mt. Stanley, Mt. Luigi di Savoia, and Mt. Baker by a new route direct...
MORRISON PARSONS BRIDGLAND 1878-1948Morrison Parsons Bridgland was a Canadian surveyor and a lover of mountains who had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1903. A full account of his climbing is given in our Annals.1 He was born at Fa...
Peaks near Ralam Pass, Kumaon. In the third week of May, St. Stephen’s College, Delhi, sent an expedition to the Ralam valley in the Pithorogarh district, in erstwhile Kumaon. The valley was chosen because very few travellers have visited it in th...
Tasermiut Fjord, Sermitsiaq region, Hermelnbjerg northwest pillar; Ketil region, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, ascent; and Nalumasortoq, Non C è Senza Tre, ascent. Between mid-June and mid- July eight Norwegians visited the Tasermiut Fjord in the yac...
STRANDED—WEATHER, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY, EXPOSURE— HYPOTHERMIA AND LOSS OF CONTROL GLISSADING, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Ranier, Liberty Ridge and Kautz GlacierOn Saturday June 29, the Quillen party of two was rescued from a summit cre...
Ascent of P 6640, Chinese KarakoramAdrian Burgess, Alpine Climbing GroupALL OUR ENERGIES were focused on the ascent of the north ridge of K2 from the Xinjiang Province of China. However, after two months of climbing, fixing rope and preparing the ...