Cerro Torre and Torre Egger Attempts, 1992. Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Adriano Cavallaro and Guido Bonvicini attempted in October, 1992 to climb the 1959 Egger-Maestri route on Cerro Torre. They climbed about 600 meters in two days, but the obje...
Buttress/Ridge, Variation. After alpine- style ascents of Cholatse and Lobuje East, Fredrick Wilkinson and I, both 20, descended to Thado Khosi from the Gokyo region of the Khumbu Himalaya in early November. We hoped to do either a new route on th...
Mountain Unity. Mountain Unity International (www.mountainunity.org) is a non-profit organization providing marketing, media, and communications support for any tour operator organizing expeditions to Afghanistan, though particularly the Wakhan Co...
Mount Marcus Baker, Chugach Range. Mount Marcus Baker (13,176 feet), the highest peak of the Chugach Range, was first climbed in 1938 by Bradford Washburn and party. (A.A.J., 1939, 3:3, pp. 255-264.) Later unsuccessful attempts to climb the mounta...
Grand Teton National Park (3)—On August 31, 1954, Timothy Kelly (22), with three companions, was descending from Mt. Owen via a snow- filled couloir. Kelly tested the snow and then glissaded in a standing position. He picked up considerable speed ...
Texas and Arch Canyon Area, El Cerro Del Perm. This remote tower is located on the south side of a canyon below the junction at Arch Canyon and Texas Canyon in the area of Natural Bridges National Monument, south of Moab. The first ascent was made...
Chaukhamba II, first ascent of the southwest face. One summer day in 2002 my friends and I decided on the Garhwal as our fall expedition destination. Researching it, we chose Chaukhamba II, the most remote summit of the region. With the help of a ...
In late July, Ann Piersall and I explored several drainages in the northeastern section of the At Bashi. A recipient of AAC research grants, Piersall was living in Kyrgyzstan and studying local perceptions of glacial retreat in the rural communiti...
Mount St. Helens EruptionMaynard M. MillerSUNDAY, May 18, 1980 … a magnificently clear, bright morning. Three rope teams of four persons each had set out before dawn to reach the summit of 12,307-foot (3751 meters) Mount Adams, Washington State’s ...
Mount Everest. In 1952 the Swiss made two strong attacks on the Nepalese side of Mount Everest, one before and the other after the monsoon.Following the route discovered by Dr. Charles S. Houston and H. William Tilman in 1950, and unsuccessfully a...
K7, south face new route and repeat of Japanese Route; Nayser Brakk, southeast ridge, Tasty Talking, No More Tasty Talking; Kapura, west ridge; K7 West, attempt. The expedition included Americans Steve House (leader), Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Je...
The East Wall of Upper Yosemite FallRoyal RobbinsFlanked by steep walls of granite, the Upper Yosemite Fall springs from a notch cut deep by Yosemite Creek and plunges 1400 feet to a great basin formed by glaciers and millions of years of hydrauli...
HARRY HOYT 1924-1997Harry Hoyt was bom June 20, 1924, in Grinnell, Iowa. Since he suffered from asthma, he was sent as a teenager to the YMCA Camp Chief Ouray near Granby, Colorado, where he became a counselor and developed his love of the mountai...
The Expedition of the Sektion München of the D. Ö. A. V. The group composed of Adolf Göttner, Gottlieb Rosenschon, Ludwig Schmaderer and Ludwig Vörg set out at the same time as the Austrian expedition just mentioned, but confined their activities ...
Climbing in the Toulumne MeadowsThomas Higgins“How ABOUT The Coming?” I waited for a reaction. “That’s pretty good.” “See, it’s near Chartres and sorta fits with the spiritual connotations of the cathedral. How about it? Isn’t coming’ spiritual?”T...
HANS MOLDENHAUER 1906–1987Hans Moldenhauer, a Life Member of the American Alpine Club, died on October 19, 1987. He grew up in Mainz, where he studied music. He began climbing in the Swiss-Austrian Rätikon group, making several first ascents, and ...
Yahuarraju and Rurec, Cordillera BlancaH. Adams CarterOur expedition was not so much distinguished for the technical brilliance of our climbing ability as for the advanced age of its members. I sat, securely wedged between the highest tiny outcrop...
JULES M. EICHORN1912-2000Sierra pioneer Jules Marquard Eichom, a 66-year member of the American Alpine Club, died February 15 after a climbing career that left his name indelibly etched on the Range of Light. Born in San Francisco on February 7, 1...
Everest: Kangshung Face. Stephen Venables. Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1989. 236 pages. Black-and-white and color photographs, maps. £14.95.Stephen Venables, raised in a somewhat cloistered Oxford milieu (receiving a Masters degree in English ...
Sonam Himal and Karsang Peak (both 6,225m), traverse by Les Bosses à Mary; Le Belvedere d’Alfred (6,226m), possible second ascent; Kumlun Himal (6,365m), northwest ridge, Honorez la Vie. When you return home from an expedition to Nepal, there is a...