Latok Attempt. Benden Murphy and I made two alpine-style attempts on the Lowe route on Latok’s north ridge between long spells of heavy snow. On September 4, our first attempt ended after a day of climbing and a bivouac at 5300 meters when snow be...
West Temple, Back Where it All Begins. On April 10, John Rzyczecki and I started a new route on the southeast face of the West Temple. The route, Back Where it All Begins (VI 5.1 la A3), follows the obvious diagonal line up the center of the wall ...
In the autumn a party of climbers made four ascents in the Qungmo Kangri group at the southwestern end of Nyanchen Tanglha. They first tried the lower of two peaks referred to as Dhungri by nomads. This peak is generally known as Tangmonja and was...
Baruntse. The seven-man Chiba University expedition was led by Hideaki Yoshinaga. They climbed the southeast ridge, the same route as used by the New Zealanders in 1954 and the Japanese last autumn and winter. After establishing four camps above B...
Mt. Blackburn, New Route, Previously Unreported. In May, 1998, Franz Mueter, Martin Truffer, and I walked in from the McCarthy Road to the Kuskalana Glacier, then up to a camp at about 5,000 feet beneath the west face of Mt. Blackburn. From there,...
Lost Horizon, first free ascent. On January 29 Ty Mack and I made the first free ascent of the stunning Lost Horizon route, located in Lost Canyon in Sedona, AZ. Lost Horizon follows an impeccable corner system for four long pitches. The climbing ...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, LEADER’ S LAPSE LEAD TO MISJUDGMENTUtah, Uinta Mountains – Between Gunsight Pass and Kings PeakOn June 29, Lucy (42), a beginning climber, was climbing above the leader (71) on an ascent near Kings Peak. She tr...
Further Note on the Earthquake in Southeastern Alaska. The tidal wave that washed huge trees off the sides of mountains above Lituya Bay was certainly one of the biggest in history. A triangular area about a mile across its base and reaching an al...
Lucania, Southeast Ridge. Greg White, Chip Brejc, Pat Patersen, Jeff Pat- heal, Jay Pistono and I made the first ascent of the Aurora (southeast) ridge of Lucania. Andy Williams flew us all in the same day. The last group flew through the clouds t...
FAILURE OF NUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyIn early October 1982, two climbers were on Pancake Flake when the following incident occurred. The leader placed one piece for aid, then a second. He took out the first and ...
Kangerlluqsuaq Fjord, Various Ascents. On July 12, eight of us (Phil Bartlett, Dave Wilkinson, Helen Geddes, John Hudson, Graham Robinson, Ken Findlay, Pete Nelson and Brian Davison) were dropped by ski Twin Otter to the south of Kangerlluqsuaq Fj...
Gasherbrum II. Austrians Gabriele Binder, Dr. Georg Fritsch, Franz and Gerhard Neumayer, Franz Püchler and Walter Senhotta and Pakistani Shah Jehan made an ascent of Gasherbrum II by the standard route. They traveled from Dasso to Base Camp at 16,...
La Esfinge, Intuition, New Route. After paying our dues with the requisite Peruvian stomach funk, my partner, Taki Miyamoto, and I headed into the Paron Valley, in the northern section of the Cordillera Blanca. What would be a leisurely two-hour h...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Our expedition, led by Rudi Mayr had 16 members, most of them high-altitude trekkers with no serious ambition for the summit (7193meters, 23,600 feet). The mountain was approached from the south and Base Camp was establi...
Squamish, Black Dyke, free climb. The Black Dyke on Squamish has been a serious test for aid climbers since it was first climbed by Al Givler and Mead Hargis in 1970, but climbers ascending the Grand Wall route have also peered over and dreamed of...
The Tooth, Snoqualmie Pass. Cindy Long and I established a direct route up the east face of the Tooth on August 3. We started up the steep but mostly easy 5th-class comers past a tree. We then moved left onto a high-angle slab and up an exposed ne...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The CMC continued its emphasis on large numbers of hikes in the Colorado area, with over 2,000 trips offered during the year. In addition, a number of outings were sponsored to other parts of the world, including trips ...
Himalchuli West Attempt. Time limitations and almost continuous bad weather forced William Briggs, Michael Daugherty, Richard Davidson, John Sarracino, Roger Siglin and me to abandon the expedition. We established Base Camp at 12,000 feet and Camp...
McKinley, South Face. Mark Leffler and I made the second ascent of the route on the western side of the south face which was first climbed solo by Czech Miroslav Šmíd on May 17, 1991. [See AAJ, 1992 page 119 and photo on page 120.] The six pitches...
Leo Pargial, Ascent, and Medical Work. Leo Pargial (6791m) in Hangrang (North Kinnaur) was first climbed on August 10, 1933, by a British team led by Marco Pallis via the west ridge. The first Indian ascent, led by D. K. Khullar, was also made via...