Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Mt. Hooker, Pay to Play

Mt. Hooker, Pay to Play. On their first trip to the Wind River Range in late August, Chattanooga climbers Jim Hewett and Neeld “Off the Couch” Messier established a new route on the Northeast Face of Mount Hooker. In nine free pitches and four of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Trisud

Trisul. A Gujarat expedition from Ahmedabad climbed Trisul (23,360 feet). Their Base Camp was on the Trisul Glacier near the southern slopes, between the trident and the Bethartoli peaks. Camp II was at 22,000 feet. On June 23 Miss Nandini Patel, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Second Ascent

Annapurna, Second Ascent. The British Nepalese Army Annapurna Expedition assembled in Kathmandu on March 16, personnel and stores having been air-freighted from the United Kingdom by the RAF. We were Major Bruce M. Niven, overall leader, Lieutenan...


Accident Reports ANAM
Northern Cascades, Washington: (2) Mt. Rainier

Northern Cascades, Washington: (2) Mt. Rainier. A dual accident occurred on Mt. Rainier in the early summer of 1948. J. H. Hagood was crossing a six-foot snow bridge, which collapsed. He was precipitated into the crevasse and buried under snow. He...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure, Illinois, Mississippi Palisades Park, Sentinel Rock

RAPPEL FAILUREIllinois, Mississippi Palisades Park, Sentinel RockIn November, Steven Wallace (27) died in hospital following his 40 foot fall from Sentinel Rock, from which he was rappelling. No other details were available, but as this is an area...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Kush, Karambar Region, Various Ascents

Karambar Region, Various Ascents. The Montecchio Maggiore section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent from July 22 to August 27 in the Karambar Valley north of Chitral. They found no indication in their documents of any preceding alpine activity in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Eisenhower, Southeast Tower, West Face Direct

Mount Eisenhower, Southeast Tower, West Face Direct. A new route on the west face of Castle Tower (the southeast tower of Mount Eisenhower) was ascended by Ed Peyer and me on July 1. The climb began in a fair-sized couloir below the center of the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Hell Roaring Canyon, 1984 and 1985

Hell Roaring Canyon, 1984 and 1985. On October 31, 1984 I completed the first ascent of the Witch, one of several Wingate Towers, roughly a quarter of the way up the canyon near its south rim. The route, Midnight Rider (III, 5.7, A3), is highly ae...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Corocran, Southwest Face

Mount Corcoran, Southwest Face. A long approach up the south fork of Tuttle Creek leads to the eastern side of Mount Corcoran’s towers. On May 2 Hooman Aprin, Jack Roberts, and I tried a route on the east face of the second tower of Corcoran, but ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, South Georgia, Mount Paget

Mount Paget, South Georgia. A British naval party made the first ascent of the west peak of Mount Paget (9565 feet) in the Allardyce Range on December 13, 1960. The party, Captain V. N. Stevenson, Lt. Comdr. M. K. Burley and Corporal Todd, were la...


Accident Reports ANAM
Northern Cascades, Washington: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District

Northern Cascades, Washington: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District. On 14 September 1947 a girl fell from Guye Peak while she was descending unroped, in the dark. She was seriously injured. She had done no previous climbing, and the two others in the par...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi. In August David Hambly and I climbed Cotopaxi (19,350 feet). The weather was marginal. Soft snow added to the strenuousness of the climb. We bivouacked at 18,000 feet on the descent.Charles Crenchaw


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Exposure, Inadequate Equipment, Exhaustion, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXHAUSTION, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 5, 1985, while “comfortably camped” in an igloo at 5300 meters in some nasty, but not awful, weather, we were awakened by two Dutch climbers who had come o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Lupghar Sar West and Central

Lupghar Sar West and Central. Our group was made up of Dr. Masatsugu Otaishi, Isao Uchida, Tatsuo Nazuka, Yuichi Watanabe, Kunio Kataoka, Hitoshi Shimizu, Toshiyuki Kawasaki and me as leader. We left Nagar on June 16 with 88 porters and got to Bas...


Notes AAJ
Skiing

Skiing. Marcel Kurz (A. C.), well-known exponent of mountaineering art, has for several years been giving lessons in skiing (in English) at his chalet in the Swiss Val Ferret, where accommodations for a limited number are available. Particulars ma...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Mt. Tomyhoi

British Columbia, Mt. Tomyhoi. On 9 July Hans (27) and Max Lustenberger (28), and Francois Malden had left camp at the 5,200 foot level. On the ascent one slingless ice axe was lost in the Lustenberger party. The Lustenberger party was joined by o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Poor Route Selection, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Abbott

FALL ON SNOW, POOR ROUTE SELECTION British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount AbbottOn July 29, 1987, a party of three was traversing from Sapphire Col to Mount Abbott, a route that requires several ascents and descents primarily over broken rock ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar Attempt

Lhotse Shar Attempt. On August 28 Base Camp was set up on the west bank of the Imja Glacier, beneath the eastern flank of Island Peak at 17,000 feet. The route to Camp I was begun on September 2 and lay up the rubble-covered glacier and slopes on ...


Notes AAJ
Canada, Selkirk Range: Battle Group

Selkirk Range: Battle Group. Successes of 1947 in the Battle Group are further described in two papers: C.A.J., XXI (1948), 1 ff. and 140 ff.In 1948 B. G. Ferris, Jr., A. J. Kauffman, 2nd, and W. L. Putnam followed S. B. Hendricks’ 1946 route into...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. The mountaineering committee of the AMC continued to train beginners in rock and ice climbing as well as above-timberline camping in the winter during 1967. The Club and its chapters scheduled over 3000 man-days of climb...