El Capitan, Genesis, 1989. In May 1989, Doug Englekirk and I climbed a new route on El Capitan (Genesis, VI, 5.11b, A4+). It lies between Tribal Rite and the Wall of Early Morning Light or New Dawn. We began on Armageddon (5. 10d) and via some new...
Washington, Carbon River Area. On 29 August Martin J. Quinn (23) and a companion had intended to follow the trail to the Carbon Glacier and return. Enroute they decided (apparently on the spur of the moment) to climb up into the rocks that were al...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS,FALLING ROCK California, Mount WhitneyOn July 27, 1987, Hummie Mann (31) and Sean Collinsworth had gotten off route in descending to Long Ledge. They realized their mistake, so Collinsworth climbed ba...
Annapurna IV Attempt. An expedition of seven French, two German and one Swiss was led by Hervé Thivierge. They attempted the normal northwest ridge. On October 6 Thivierge, Christophe Minster and Alain Villijer got to 6400 meters. Then a period of...
Nevado Huaguruncho, Tancash. Huaguruncho, meaning “the white tusk,” is the 24th highest mountain in Peru (according to web pages that give the summit an altitude of 5,780m [See note below for explanation—Ed]). Located in the Central Andes region, ...
Crystal Crag, East Face. Vern Clevenger and I climbed a three-pitch F9 route on the left side of this face in January. It begins on the right side of a prominent dihedral. Crystal Crag is near Mammoth Lakes. NCCS I, F9.Galen Rowell
Mt. Wilson, 14,250, and Wilson Peak, 14,026, were ascended by a party of the Colorado Mountain Club early in July, 1929. The former is not an easy peak and has not been fully explored by climbers. It is thought that an unnamed peak about one or tw...
KR6. Japanese climbers Shoichi Hasegawa and Atuhisa Kasugadani left Patisio to make their Base Camp on August 1 north of KR2 at 4650 meters. They went over a col in the northwest ridge of KR2 and descended to the Chandra River, where they put Adva...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. A section meeting was held in March featuring Masaru Kono, who presented an illustrated account of the Japanese ascent of Mount Everest. In October the section sponsored an outstanding outdoor seminar at Castle Rock...
Trango Towers. Our expedition was composed of Abdel Amar, Mauro Mabboni, Pierre Montiglio, Olivier Soulié and me. On May 19 and 20, Montiglio, Soulié and I made the first of two routes on the south face of the Trango Château or the First Tower, th...
Numbur. Isao Fukushima led a team of eight Japanese who climbed the southwest ridge of Numbur. On October 18, Takashi Masuda, Hiroto Saitoh, Pasang Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa reached the summit (6957 meters, 22,824 feet). They were followed the nex...
Peaks above Balbala Glacier. An Indian expedition led by Dr. Amiya Kumar Hati climbed in northern Garhwal. Base Camp was above Mana at Chandhumka at 15,200 feet and Advanced Base on the Balbala Glacier at 16,400 feet. Camp II was set up at 18,000 ...
Pissis. After an approach from Copiapó, Chile, I crossed the border via the Valle Ancho Norte Pass (4672 meters, 15,328 feet; 27°24'32"S, 68°45'47"W). From there it is 50 kilometers to Base Camp at the bottom of the northern glacier of Pissis. I c...
Mount Fairweather, First Ski Descent. Dave Braun and I carved rime ice from the 15,300-foot summit of Mount Fairweather on April 29. Shannon Walsh reached 13,800 feet on the 11-day expedition. Fairweather rises just 15 miles from the open ocean, a...
Shisha Pangma Post-Monsoon Attempts. Frenchman Marc Batard made a solo attempt on Shisha Pangma and reached 7500 meters on the normal route. This was actually more an acclimatization climb for his Everest ascent, which followed immediately. An Ita...
Washington, Mt. Garfield, Washington Cascades 45 miles from Seattle— On May 18, a four man roped party was descending a wide snow ledge which angled down below a rock cliff on the N.W. route on Mt. Garfield. All were moderately to extremely experi...
Everest Attempt. Our 17-member team consisted of Germans, Austrians, Swiss Norbert Joos and South Tirolean Hans Kammerlander. The latter two hoped for an ascent without artificial oxygen. There were four women in our number. We had five Sherpa and...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake LouiseDoug McKay was making a second ski descending traverse of the slope of Big Beehive above Lake Agnes at 1245 hours on 26 March 1977 when the snow fractured at the line of the first traverse. He was carr...
HACE, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION—CLIENT TO GUIDEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAn Alaska Denali Guiding Party led by Blaine Smith took ten days to reach the 14,200 foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley arriving May 23. Jack Miller (...
Indian Ascents and Attempts in Garhwal. Two Indian expeditions successfully climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet). The leaders were Dr. Anjan Chowdhury and Debasish Kanji. Sisir Karmaker and Laxman Rana of the first party climbed to the su...