FRANCES D. RANDALL1925-1984Frances D. Randall will always be remembered as the “Queen of the Kahiltna.” She worked as Base Camp Manager on the Kahiltna Glacier for nine summers, developing a motherly rapport with thousands of McKinley climbers. He...
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route, One Way Ticket. Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz from France discovered a very thin line of goulottes and ice smears running up the face just left of the Central Couloir and climbed it over 10 days u...
Simian Outing Society. The Simians began the year by instructing beginners on the local cliffs of Portland Arch, Indiana. These cliffs have since been closed by the state, and the area has been incorporated into the Indiana system of natural areas...
Mana Northwest Attempt and Ascent of P 6687. Unclimbed Mana Northwest (7092 meters, 23,270 feet) lies northwest of Mana and south of Kamet on the ridge which connects the two. Our four-member team from Bombay, P.B. Bodhane, Subhas Kharde, Anil Cha...
Jøkulkyrkia, Queen Maud Land. Under the leadership of Norwegian Ivar Tollefsen, Norwegians made a number of notable ascents. On January 10, all 13 members, including Ralph Høibakk, reached the 3148-meter (10,329-foot) summit of Jøkulkyrkia. The pa...
The Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, scheduled 231 climbs, 241 hiking trips, 15 outings, and four expeditions during their year ending September 30, 1988. The expeditions included Bob Wilson’s group of four on an ascent of Cerro Chopicalq...
Air Survey of Nepal. Anderson Bakewell, S. J., now at De Nobili College, Poona, has drawn our attention to a Reuter dispatch of January 1949 concerning a projected "topographical map of 29,000 sq[uare] miles of catchment areas of the three main ri...
On July 13, Eric Lougee, with two years of climbing experience, took his cousin, Donald Lougee (33), to Cannon Cliff for what Donald thought was to be an introductory climbing lesson. After a short lesson, the two men started up Lakeview. When D...
Washington, Dome Peak Area, Spire Point—Sixteen climbers were on an official Mazama outing in the Dome Peak Area with a base camp located near Cub Lake. Outing was under the leadership of Ed Dolan and Jim Craig. On August 6, the entire group start...
STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyStanley Garrison (22) and John Suttle (25) stated that they had hiked to the base of Half Dome on Friday and began climbing Saturday morning, October 28. They ascended at an ade...
Chogolisa Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Mariano López failed to climb the route on Chogolisa on which Hermann Buhl lost his life.
Mount Hunter, North Buttress. Finally, the north buttress has been climbed all the way to the summit. It was Doug Klewin’s fourth and my second try. We began to the left of Mug Stump’s start (See A.A.J., 1982, pages 118 to 183), climbing eight pit...
Colorado, Quandry Peak. On July 4, Charles Hardin (43) and his daughter Marilee (18) ascended Quandry Peak. They apparently were standing on the summit watching an approaching storm. Local persons noted severe lightning in the area on the afternoo...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Lefroy, Lemire RouteAfter 32 hours on this alpine grade IV, 5.7 route a party of two was reported overdue to Warden Service dispatch. They were located near the top of a rock buttres...
Blackburn and P 10,565. On May 3, Paul Claus flew a party from Anchorage Community College’s Alaska Wilderness Program to 7300 feet on the Nabesna Glacier below P 9111, north of Mount Blackburn (4995 meters, 16,390 feet). Led by Todd Miner and me,...
Gangapurna Tragedy. A six-man expedition from Meiji University in Japan was led by Yuichi Suzuki. They made Base Camp at 16,550 feet on September 13. They attempted the unclimbed northwest ridge, which had been unsuccessfully tried ten years befor...
Granite Park Spire, first ascent, White Peregrines. Em Holland and I were lured to Granite Park by Rick “The Chief” Poedtke’s tales of stellar climbing on an untouched high point of the Sierra Crest. Rick had climbed half the route the previous ye...
Bear’s Tooth, You Can’t Fly. A six-man Polish Alaska 2002 expedition operated as two independent teams. Two younger climbers repeated routes in the Ruth Gorge, while the four more experienced ones were interested in climbing a big new route on one...
Cordillera Apolobamba. A second Italian expedition was active in the little known Cordillera Apolobamba, which lies northeast of Lake Titicaca between Peru and Bolivia. These members of the Milan section of the Italian Alpine Club were Carlo Frigi...
Ala Archa National Park Kyrgyzskiy Alatau Mountains, Various Ascents. At the end of August, Brady Van Matre and I traveled to Kyrgyzstan with the intention of climbing Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan mountains. We arrived in time to drink vodka with ...