FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, LEADER’ S LAPSE LEAD TO MISJUDGMENTUtah, Uinta Mountains – Between Gunsight Pass and Kings PeakOn June 29, Lucy (42), a beginning climber, was climbing above the leader (71) on an ascent near Kings Peak. She tr...
Further Note on the Earthquake in Southeastern Alaska. The tidal wave that washed huge trees off the sides of mountains above Lituya Bay was certainly one of the biggest in history. A triangular area about a mile across its base and reaching an al...
Lucania, Southeast Ridge. Greg White, Chip Brejc, Pat Patersen, Jeff Pat- heal, Jay Pistono and I made the first ascent of the Aurora (southeast) ridge of Lucania. Andy Williams flew us all in the same day. The last group flew through the clouds t...
FAILURE OF NUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyIn early October 1982, two climbers were on Pancake Flake when the following incident occurred. The leader placed one piece for aid, then a second. He took out the first and ...
Kangerlluqsuaq Fjord, Various Ascents. On July 12, eight of us (Phil Bartlett, Dave Wilkinson, Helen Geddes, John Hudson, Graham Robinson, Ken Findlay, Pete Nelson and Brian Davison) were dropped by ski Twin Otter to the south of Kangerlluqsuaq Fj...
Gasherbrum II. Austrians Gabriele Binder, Dr. Georg Fritsch, Franz and Gerhard Neumayer, Franz Püchler and Walter Senhotta and Pakistani Shah Jehan made an ascent of Gasherbrum II by the standard route. They traveled from Dasso to Base Camp at 16,...
La Esfinge, Intuition, New Route. After paying our dues with the requisite Peruvian stomach funk, my partner, Taki Miyamoto, and I headed into the Paron Valley, in the northern section of the Cordillera Blanca. What would be a leisurely two-hour h...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Our expedition, led by Rudi Mayr had 16 members, most of them high-altitude trekkers with no serious ambition for the summit (7193meters, 23,600 feet). The mountain was approached from the south and Base Camp was establi...
Squamish, Black Dyke, free climb. The Black Dyke on Squamish has been a serious test for aid climbers since it was first climbed by Al Givler and Mead Hargis in 1970, but climbers ascending the Grand Wall route have also peered over and dreamed of...
The Tooth, Snoqualmie Pass. Cindy Long and I established a direct route up the east face of the Tooth on August 3. We started up the steep but mostly easy 5th-class comers past a tree. We then moved left onto a high-angle slab and up an exposed ne...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The CMC continued its emphasis on large numbers of hikes in the Colorado area, with over 2,000 trips offered during the year. In addition, a number of outings were sponsored to other parts of the world, including trips ...
Himalchuli West Attempt. Time limitations and almost continuous bad weather forced William Briggs, Michael Daugherty, Richard Davidson, John Sarracino, Roger Siglin and me to abandon the expedition. We established Base Camp at 12,000 feet and Camp...
McKinley, South Face. Mark Leffler and I made the second ascent of the route on the western side of the south face which was first climbed solo by Czech Miroslav Šmíd on May 17, 1991. [See AAJ, 1992 page 119 and photo on page 120.] The six pitches...
Leo Pargial, Ascent, and Medical Work. Leo Pargial (6791m) in Hangrang (North Kinnaur) was first climbed on August 10, 1933, by a British team led by Marco Pallis via the west ridge. The first Indian ascent, led by D. K. Khullar, was also made via...
Bamba Dhura. Bamba Dhura is so remote and difficult of access that it took us 20 days to have our first glimpse of the peak. Munsiari was the last bus station, reached via Almora. From there it took us four days to get to Base Camp at 13,200 feet ...
Cerro Stanhardt, West Face. Italians Maurizio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Elio Orlandi climbed a very difficult new route on the west face of Cerro Stanhardt. It rises 1200 meters. On September 21, they attacked the west face from the Bifida-...
Kampf und Sieg am Nanga Parbat. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. Bayerische Verlagsanstalt, Bamberg, 1979. 160 pages, 89 photos in black and white and 7 in color. Maps and diagrams. Maps as end-papers with all routes marked. Mount Everest. K.M. Herrligkoffe...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn October 8, 1988, Bob Drumheller (31) and his partner were at the top of “Touch- N-Go” preparing to rappel when rock fall came down. Drumheller sustained a laceration requiring four s...
Ampato. We approached Ampato via the railroad station at Sumbay and Sillai. With rain or new snow the road beyond the turn-off is very bad and hard to find. We climbed Ampato by the southeast side, which normally has less snow than the other ridge...
Patagonia Orocline Expedition. A full article appears earlier in this Journal about exploration in various parts of Patagonia carried out while making geological research in 1967-8.