Mount Waddington from the North. From July 18 to August 3, Mike Warburton and I traversed the Coast Range from east to west via the Tiedemann and Franklin Glaciers and climbed the north ridge of Mount Waddington by a new route. We approached the r...
Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev. On July 24, 2008, a group of climbers associated with the Moscow Aviation Institute made the first ascent of Pik 5,368m in the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range. This peak is the highest point of a sub-range ...
Changtse. We were R. Turner, G. Nash, D. Hunter, C. Gordon, J. Smart and I as leader. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters on September 5. Camps I and II were at the traditional sites on the East Rongbuk Glacier at 5400 and 5800 meters. Advance...
A New Season In YosemiteThe Big Walls, Then And NowBy Ryan and Tom FrostRyanInever knew my father.Now that I’ve grabbed you with that shameless headline, let me qualify it. My father is Tom Frost, but when I was young, that meant nothing to me. He...
Lady Momo. Outer Sognefjord and Hoyanger provide a spectacular destination for ice climbing (Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway). In some winters, when the ice conditions are good, you can climb with a view over the open sea. There is a 600...
Chaudhara. On June 8, leader S.N. Dhar, Rabin Paul and Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa reached the summit of Chaudhara (6510 meters, 21,360 feet). This was probably the second ascent. We had set up three higher camps. We climbed the west face. The other mem...
FALLING ROCK-DISLODGED BY CLIMBER, OFF ROUTE, BENIGHTED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn August 29 at 1300, I received a report via park dispatch that a climbing party on Serendipity Arete (Mount Owen) reported ...
First Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. The crumbling limestone towers of Aiguille Peak (9840 feet) rise above the Banff-Jasper Highway, west of the Mistaya. Dr. J. Monroe Thorington visited the headwaters of North Ebon Creek, southwest of Aiguille...
Pik Sabor, new route attempt and repeat of north ridge. In 2003 the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne suffered a tragic loss when two well-known members, Antoine de Choudens and Philippe Renard, were killed while acclimatizing for an alpine style...
Cerro Kishtwar Attempt. Our team consisted of Andy Perkins, Brendan Murphy, David Cosford, Duncan Hornby, Jeremy Wilson, Kevin Dougherty and me. We managed the singular feat of never, before, during or after, actually being all in one place at the...
An Ice Ax, A Camera, and A Jar of Peanut Butter. Ira Spring. The Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1998. 283 photos. 240 pages. $24.95.In 1930, the Eastman Kodak Company’s Centennial Celebration gift to all 12-year-olds was a Kodak Box Brownie camera. ...
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR (NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE), DISTRACTION, HASTE, WEATHER, DARKNESSNew Mexico, Los Alamos, White RockIt must have been a nightmare. Seriously, I don’t do that. I know better. Way better. I’ve been climbing for over 12 years...
Mountaineering on the Sierra Nevada, by Clarence King. Edited and with a preface by Francis P. Farquhar. 8 vo. ; 320 pages, 8 illustrations. New York: W. W. Norton & Co., Inc., 1935. Price $3.50.The material of this book, first appearing in 18...
The East Face of Mount ChephrenArthur GranWe were three climbers, who had come from Alaska and New York to attempt a great alpine face. John Hudson, Pete Geiser and I were packing to a high camp at the base of the east face of Mount Chephren. Afte...
Arabian Fantasy–Jebel MishtMichael P. Searle, EnglandTHE TIMELESS deserts of Arabia spread out across 1000 kilometers of shimmering sand seas, gravel plains and quicksands from the volcanic hills of the Red Sea to the Oman Mountains bordering the ...
Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Climbed by Tibetans. On standard routes were the first Tibetans and first of any Chinese, on a climbing venture outside China. Their team, called the “China Tibetan Expedition to the 14 Mountains above 8000 Meters in the W...
History of the Great Mountaineering Adventures. Stefano Ardito. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 2000. 490 color photos, 200 black-and-white photos, 8 color maps, 50 illustrations. 320 pages. $48.00.When this book arrived in a box that measured eight by...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - NO KNOT ON ROPE END, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkDuring the afternoon of December 17, Dalton Jones (18) and his female partner (17) were climbing Rewritten (5.7), a six-pitch climb on t...
Debsa Valley, Peak 6,135m (Ramabang). Paulie Mitchell, Darach O’Murchu, Craig Scarlett, and I, all from Ireland, traveled to India on our first Himalayan expedition to attempt the first ascent of the attractive Peak 6,135m (N 31°57'30", E77°53'10"...
Rassemblement International, Chamonix. The Fédération Française de la Montagne, governing body for the official aspects of mountaineering in France, organized for this past summer, an international meeting of mountaineers. The most prominent climb...