Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

Publication Year: 1975.

TABLE III

Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved



1951-73

1959-73

1974

1974





U.S.A.

CAN.

U.S.A.

CAN.



Terrain



Rock

1221

102

64

3



Snow

626

98

42

3



River

5

0

0

0



Unknown

10

2

0

0



Ascent or Descent



Ascent

928

116

49

4



Descent

805

77

42

2



Unknown

129

8

1

0



Immediate Cause



Fall or slip on rock

675

55

56

0



Failure of piton or nut

53

2

4

2



Falling rock or object

163

27

11

0



Failure of rappel

80

3

6*

0



Slip on snow or ice

242

28

8

0



Fall into crevasse

35

11

0

0



Loss of control—Voluntary



glissade

69

6

3

0



Avalanche

116

38

13

3



Lightning

31

3

0

0



Skiing

6

3

0

1



Faulty use of crampons

11

2

1

0



Exceed abilities

121

5

8

0



Exposure and/or Exhaustion

97

2

1

0



Heat prostration

3

0

0

0



Failure to follow route

6

0

3

0



Stranded

93

11

3

0



Illness Medical (incl. Pulm.



Edema and Frostbite

43

3

1

0



Prussik knot slipped

3

0

0

0



Unknown

18

2

1

0



Contributory Causes



Climbing unroped

470

44

10

0



Climbing alone

139

14

2

1



Exceeding abilities

444

58

23

4



Darkness

43

3

12

0



Inadequate equipment

190

16

15

1



Old rope

8

1

0

0



Piton or nut failure

52

4

4

1



Bad weather

81

7

15

0



Exposure and/or Exhaustion

51

1

1

0



Party separated

36

6

2

0





1951-73

1959-73

1974

1974





U.S.A.

CAN.

U.S.A.

CAN.



No hard hat





6

1



Placed no protection





1

0



Failure to test holds





3

0



Age of Individuals





Under 15

69

4

2

0



15-20

648

43

45

1



21-25

422

41

48

1



26-30

217

45

23

2



31-35

119

16

6

0



36-50

Over 50

}187

27

3

1

0

0



Unknown

200

25

5

2



Affiliation with Climbing Croups



Unaffiliated

627

39

38†

1



Affiliated

636

107

27

5



Unknown

589

55

37

0



Estimate of Experience



None or little

847

73

39†

1



Moderate

492

48

26

1



Experienced

312

62

27

5



Unknown

211

18

18

1



Month of Year



January

63

3

16

0



February

73

12

3

2



March

95

3

8

0



April

101

3

3

0



May

165

11

4

0



June

222

31

13

1



July

342

67

19

1



August

328

57

17

1



September

190

7

13

1



October

100

3

4

0



November

79

1

6

0



December

64

1

2

0



Unknown

8

2

0

0



*Two failures resulted from having a continuous rappel rope uneven; hence, one rope too short.

† Reflects either 1) experience of total group, or 2) experience of the individual injured or killed—whichever is most relevant to the situation.