Climbs and Ski Runs. By F. S. Smythe, with a foreword by G. Winthrop Young. Pp. xx+07. Illustrated. Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh. 1929. Price 21s.Mr. Smythe is well known to mountaineers from his two great climbs on the Brenva face of Mont Blan...
Painted Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, 1988. In the fall of 1988, I soloed a new route on the right of the Painted Wall without fixed rope or bolts. I followed the first pitch of the Dragon Route to the screefield. My route started at the top...
The Measure of a Mountain: Beauty and Terror on Mount Rainier. Bruce Barcott. Sasquatch Books: Seattle, 1997. 278 pages. $23.95.During the past decade, I have read and reviewed many inferior books about mountaineering. I have been bored with 8000-...
Bolivia, various ascents. Although more may come to light, Bolivian contacts and regular visitors know of little pioneering activity in 2005. However, they do report that the mountains are in bad shape, crumbling and with marked glacial retreat. T...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club membership remained over 1,000 despite an increase in membership dues. The club once again experienced a very active year. Many of the courses and mountain camps were again offered for two hours of credit by the Univers...
Cho Polu, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. Spanish mountaineer Nil Bohigas reports that he did very quick solo climbs to the summits of Cho Polu and of nearby Pethangtse in the autumn of 1984 and several days later also soloed Baruntse. Howeve...
Torres del Brujo, A Ultima Dama and other climbs. From January 10-22, 2008, Joao Cassol (Florianopolis, Brazil), Wagner Machado (Curitiba, Brazil), and I explored the seldom- visited Torres del Brujo. Located 120km south of Santiago, Chile, the ar...
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonI met ranger Chris Harder at approximately 0830 hours at his residence at Beaver Creek on the morning of March 12. We had planned to go on a backcountry ski patrol up...
Some Winter Climbs in the AlpsWalter A. Wood, Jr.SOME forty years ago a strange race took place in the Bernese Oberland.1 A group of men gathered at Lauterbrunnen on a fine winter’s day. Half of them wore a comparatively unknown contraption called...
American Ascents of 8000-Meter Peaks as of August 31, 1992. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak): July 5, 1958 by Andrew Kauffman and Peter Schoening (First Ascent). Everest: May 1, 1963 by James Whittaker. Numerous subsequent US climbs, giving a total of 6...
I love first ascents. You climb with no hurry and in good company. You think creatively, choosing the line. You are the one who decides whether to use bolts or not. A special pleasure is to make the first ascent of a wall, finding the most beautif...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Our expedition was made up of Lee Seok-Ho, Yoon Jong-Ho, Back Jin-Kook, Kim In-Suk and me as leader. We climbed Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) from the north. Base Camp was established at 4600 meters on September 2. Camps I, ...
WEATHER - STRANDEDWashington, Mount RainierTwo climbers, Mrs. Mariana Burceag and Mr. Daniel Vlad (ages unknown), suffering from hypothermia and frostbite, were airlifted from Camp Muir on Mount Rainier at 6:15 a.m. on June 18 by a Chinook helicop...
Chacraraju and Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca. The Frenchmen, Lionel Terray, Maurice Davaille, Claude Gaudin, Dr. Pierre Souriac, Robert Sennelier, and Maurice Martin, and the Swiss, Raymond Jenny, left Jungay, ascended the Quebrada de Llangunuco a...
Saser Kangri. India’s highest previously unclimbed peak, Saser Kangri (25,170 feet) was ascended by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition led by Lieutenant Commander Joginder Singh. Dawa Norbu, Thondup, Nima Tenzing and Dawa Tenzing reached the...
Altai Range. The members of the British Altai Expedition were Duncan Tunstall, Phillip Thomas, Paul Allison and I as leader. The Altai Range is in Southern Siberia near the Mongolian border. The journey from Moscow was undertaken via two domestic ...
Little Sister (4,206m), Middle Sister (4,341m), Big Sister (4,492m), Zeus (4,747m), Daisy (4,239m), Snow King (4,580m), first ascents; Rock Dragon (4,597m), attempt. Andy Barret from the U.K. and I from Cyprus arrived in Kyrgyzstan on September 23...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-731959-7319741974U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock1221102643Snow62698423River5000Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent928116494Descent80577422Unknown129810Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock6755...
Lhotse, south face, winter attempt. The Japan Alpine Club Tokai Section accomplished a remarkable ascent to open a new route from the west ridge to the west face of K2 in 1997. What would be most appropriate for the next target? It didn’t take muc...
Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), north face and west ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), south face. In late summer Al Boardman, Jane Cooper, Elliot Forge, and I set out to explore the remote Katkar Valley, hoping to reach its head. To reach our lake...