Chaqri Zom, Southern Part of Buni Zom Group. Tsuneo Miyamori, leader, Motohiko Kohgo and his wife Kiyomi, Tokuhiko Nemoto, Akira Kadota, and Ichiro Ishii of Tokyo University of Agriculture were joined in Pakistan by Minoru Tanaka and Hideo Yuri of Osaka Furitsu University. On July 22 Kadota went to Kafiristan and the others left Chitral for the Golen Gol. On July 27 they established Base Camp at 11,500 feet in the Golen Gol. Continuing due west, they established three high camps, the highest on the northern slopes of Shupel Zom West (c. 6000 meters or 19,685 feet). On August 3 Tanaka, Yuri and Ishii made the first ascent of this peak. On August 5 Camp II was set up north of Base Camp at 15,100 feet southwest of Chaqri Zom. Two unsuccessful attempts were made cn the peak on August 6 and 7. On the 12th Miyamori ascended Makho Zom IV (c. 16,400 feet) for reconnaissance and map- making. This peak lies between the other two mountains. On August 13 the attack on Chaqri Zom was renewed. Its first ascent was made on August 14 by the Kohgo couple, Nemoto, Tanaka and Ishii. This peak is just a little higher than Shupel Zom, as seen by the naked eye. The expedition reached Chitral on August 18, where they did agricultural research. They spent most of the first half of September in Kafiristan.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club