At 11:30 a.m. on July 25 Sergey Samoilov and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan stepped onto the summit of Broad Peak (8,047m) after a remarkable ascent of the previously unclimbed southwest face. The two climbed the 2,500m route alpine-style, in six da...
Karwendel, Schönstes Naturschutzgebiet der Kalkal pen. By Robert Löbl. Introductory trilingual text by Heinrich Kher. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1956. 88 pages, 64 illustrations.The Karwendel is a mountain area of Tyrol, comprising nearly 1000 sq...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. Pierre Rizzardo, leader, Robin Molinatti, Xavier Cret and I attempted a climb on the north side of Kumbhakarna (7710 meters, 25,295 feet). We planned to climb a new route leading to the virgin pass between Sobithongie ...
Shingu Charpa, east face. While planning our expedition back home, I could not get over the fact that it seemed prudent to plan 20 days for our new route on Shingu Charpa’s east wall. But looking at the photos, that’s what my experience suggested....
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Parleys CanyonOn March 19, Guy Riley (25) fell while climbing on a popular rock buttress at the mouth of Parleys Canyon. Details were somewhat sketchy but Mr. Rileys protection apparently...
Nevado Rurec and Other Peaks. Guiding for the Iowa Mountaineers, Franz Mohling and I helped to establish various routes in the Quebrada Rurec region. Counting from Nevado Rurec south to Uruashraju, we named the three minor peaks Rurec #1, #2 &...
Abraham, Southeast Face, Dr. Thunder, Previously Unreported. Dr. Thunder (VI 5.10 A3), established in October, 1999, by Boulos Ayad, Joe French, and I, starts in a right-facing corner 200 yards right of the gully beneath the Radiator Buttress. The...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On August 18, Tom Brown (15) and John Wall (15) were practicing on the rocks just west of Hidden Falls. Brown was leading a pitch using a waist sling with a carabiner attached to the belay rope. Wall was belayin...
Gorichen I, Ascent. An Indian Army Expedition led by Major Anirudh Negi climbed Gorichen I (6858 m) via the same route as an earlier 1994 team, summitting on September 27.Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal
Czechoslovakian Exchange. In the summer of 1987, the American Alpine Club was host to a team of 12 climbers representing the Czechoslovakian Mountaineering Asssociation. American climbers had been admirably received and hosted in Czechoslovakia in...
Chile Andinista; Su Historia. Evelio Echevarría. El Mercurio, Santiago, Chile, 1995 (but available from Echevarría, Department of Foreign Languages, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, Colorado 80523). $15.00.Comment: A fine overview of Chile...
Cerro Cubo and Cerro Sonntag, Southern Continental Icecap. An expedition to the Continental Icecap was headed by Luciano Pera and made up of Argentines Mario González, my son Toncek Arko, Juan Pablo Nicola, Pedro Tolon, Alejandro Alvarez and Austr...
Monte Sarmiento, Attempt. Nelson Bareta and Nativo Fransen of Brazil, and Eduardo Lopez, Mariano Sebesta, and Walter Rossini of Argentina departed December 14 from Puerto Bahía Mansa with the goal of repeating the 1995 route on Monte Sarmiento. Du...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION CAME OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, Cobb RockA 20-year-old Air Force Academy cadet fell about 65 feet while still attached to his line during a climb at Cobb Rock in Boulder Canyon on August 17. The initial report from a wit...
Various areas in Utah. In Canyonlands National Park, the 32nd ascent of Standing Rock was made by a new route, three pitches on the east face. Easter Bunny (5.8, A4) was climbed on Easter weekend by Barry McLane and Simon Peck. In the San Rafael S...
FALL IN CREVASSE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, French GlacierA party of three was traveling, unroped, down the French Glacier on the morning of August 13, 1990, when one of them, D.D., fell into a crevasse. He was unable to extricate himself, ...
Cho Oyu, Southeast Face Attempt and Assault. Our Belgian expedition, consisting of Louis Lange, Régis Maincent, Michel Brent and me as leader, attempted to make a winter ascent of the southeast face of Cho Oyu. We established Base Camp, Camps I an...
Nevado de Cocuy. Six Colombian students, Santiago Péerez, Pancho and Sergio Gaviria, Juan Manuel Diaz, Andrés Uribe and Pepe Luis Moreno, climbed Ritacuba Blanco (17,926. feet) on March 25. Moreno and S. Gaviria also made the first Colombian ascen...
Annapurna Dakshin, Southeast Ridge Attempt. On October 14, only four days out from Kathmandu, Susan Diprima, Jim Jennings, John Lapkass, Geoff Radford, Dave Sullivan and I as leader reached Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Annapurna Sanctuary. The ...
Reed Pinnacle Area, Old 5.10, Yosemite. Pat and Paula Ament and I climbed the knobby wall left of Lunatic Fringe in June. This short but demanding climb is protected by three bolts and involves several F10 sections. NCCS I, F10.Tom Higgins