Batu Lawi, South Face. On March 5, Volker Shoeffl, Scott Morley, photographer Chris Noble,videographers Jim Surrette and Ken Sauls and I began the first leg of our ascent of Batu Lawi (6,703'), a remote spire in the Kelabit Highlands of Borneo. Af...
Cerro Escudo, Taste the Paine. In December 2007 and January 2008, with a minimum of rope fixing and no fixed camps, Dave Turner spent 34 continuous days on the east face of Cerro Escudo, soloing a new route (VII 5.9 A4+). Above the 1,200m wall, Tu...
Tirich Mir Attempts. This season’s unusually poor weather and associated dangerous conditions in northwest Pakistan also affected Tirich Mir (7708 meters, 25,290 feet), where our expedition of Steve Callen, leader, Mike Aughey, Dave Harries, Steve...
The First Ascent of DungeonEdward L. WoolfTHE ascent of Dungeon Peak marks the close of the pioneer work in the Tonquin. All the peaks have been climbed and explorers, it seems, have visited every nook in the valley. Dungeon was the last unclaimed...
Sherpa Himalaya Nepal, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1971. 145 pages, 118 color photographs, 9 maps and sketches. Price L6000.Although obviously a picture book, this work also fulfills other purposes. It contains a general description ...
The Polish Khunyang Chhish East Expedition comprised Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch, and myself, Grzegorz Skorek. On July 31 we started our first acclimatization climb on the 6,500m Ice Cake Peak (on the south ridge of Khunyang Chhish). We spe...
Blazing Alaska’s Trails, by Alfred H. Brooks, with foreward by John C. Reed. XXI, 528 pages, 113 photographs, 3 diagrams, folding table, and 4 sketch maps. University of Alaska and The Arctic Institute of North America, 1953. Price, $4.50.An impor...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideWhile descending the Mazama Chute variation of the Southside route at 7:00 a.m. on July 7, Bryan Call (25) lost his footing and fell about 200 feet because he was unable to self-arres...
The Expedition Cookbook. Carolyn Gunn. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988.192 pages, tables, appendices. $11.95 (paper).Food is one of the most important issues during an expedition, as it is in life. Snowy days in Base Camp are measured by the time f...
Moods of the Mountains and ClimbersM. M. StrumiaHAVE you ever asked yourself: What is in back of a climbing narrative that we read? “On such and such a day we left so and so, with so many horses and so many humans.” Or: “On such and such a day, wi...
CHARLES F. HOGEBOOM1876-1944Charles F. Hogeboom was born in New York City on April 15, 1876, and died there on November 19, 1944. He was educated in public and private schools and trained as an architect in Chicago. He passed most of his business ...
Mount Anderson, First Ascent. Mount Anderson (10,972 feet), in the St. Elias Mountains, lies at the junction of the Tittmann and Anderson glaciers only two miles from the Canadian border. It is named for one of the members of the American boundary...
Glacier StudiesTravelers visiting mountains where glaciers occur have an opportunity of making valuable observations of these glaciers. One of the principal problems to determine is whether the glacier is experiencing a period of expansion or cont...
Tioman Island, Dragon's Horns, first ascent. In late August 2000 Nick Tomlin and I spent eight days on Pulau Tioman, an island off the eastern coast of Malaysia, making the first ascent of the impressive Bukit Nekek Semekut, one of two peaks on th...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—Success Glacier—George Sainsbury (32), Ray Barker and Arnold Bloomer, all experienced climbers, two of them members of the Mountaineers, planned to climb Mt. Rainier by the then unclimbed ridge between the Success and Kautz...
The Canadian DirectWalking a fine line on the south face of Mt. McKinley.Maxime Turgeon“Hey, are you the guys who were on the south side of Foraker? Joe Reichert wants to talk with you on the radio.”As soon as I heard his voice, I knew that Joe, a...
Shoshala (ca 4,700m), Trishul Direct. In spring 2010 Frederic Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and I were exploring the Kinnaur region for new bouldering sites, when we discovered the Baspa Valley, a veritable Shangri-La for the rock climber. Returning to S...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington (2)—On March 29, Nile Albright (19) and George Millikan (19) were descending the summit cone of Mt. Washington.The weather was sunny, windy and fairly warm. Climbing conditions were good. The accident occurred shortly...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Todd McDougall and I attempted the northeast buttress of Thalay Sagar alpine-style. After arriving at Kedar Tal Base Camp on October 1, we made a carry on the 5th to 17,300 feet below the north face over a difficult moraine. ...
FALL ON ROCK, WRONG ROUTE, INAPPROPRIATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Banff National Park, Castle MountainOn July 27 a party of two began climbing what they thought was the popular Brewers Buttress route, II, 5.6. Unfortunately, they were one buttress too fa...