Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face. The northeast face of Huascarán Norte was first climbed by an expedition composed of Maurice Barrard, leader, Marceau Agier, Nicole Chesnais, Dr. Philippe Courtin, Lionel Desrivières, Alain Durin, Dr. Pierre Helard...
Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi Attempts. A Japanese expedition led by Seishi Wada failed to climb the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. They had previously failed on Rakaposhi. Details are missing.
Clogwyn du’r Arddu: The Black Cliff, by Peter Crew, Jack Soper, Ken Wilson. London: Kaye and Ward, 1971, 158 pages, 111 photos.Climbing literature is replete with biographies of famous climbers, but this volume is the first biography of a cliff.Cl...
Washington—Cascade Mts., Wilmon Spires: Robert V. Kasper (20) a member of the Mountaineers was on a scheduled club climb on the Wilmon Spires on 30 August 1953 when a large rock, apparently dislodged by the leader of his rope, struck him a glancin...
Colorado, El Dorado Springs Canyon. On 24 November Mark Schemmer (18) was rappelling off the “Rosy Crucification” at dusk when his hammer became slightly tangled in his rappel rope, after having already cleared a rope tangling problem. His rappel ...
Everest Winter Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Hasegawa attempted to make a winter ascent of Mount Everest by a route on the eastern end of the north face. It reached 8000 meters on December 26 but had to give up.Elizabeth Hawley
West Quarter Dome, Quarter Pounder. Urmas Franosch and I had originally intended to free climb the North Face route on West Quarter Dome, but when we arrived at the face we found that route obliterated by rockfall, so we opted for a series of flak...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. The members of our expedition were Peter Karla, leader, Gerhard Czipri, Wolfram Cosmus and I. Our ten-day approach march got us to Base Camp on June 17. On the 19th, we all climbed to Camp I at 5850 meters on Gasherbrum I. O...
Lampak I and II, ascents. A 10-member team from the Punjab Police, led by PM Das, climbed both Lampak peaks, which lie south of the Girthi Ganga in the Eastern Garhwal. The expedition established base camp at 4,700m in the Kala Kharak to the west ...
Thalay Sagar Attempts by Spaniards. Two Spanish expeditions were unable to complete the ascent of Thalay Sagar (6904 meters, 22,650 feet). On the night of August 20, Carlos Suárez and Alfonso Vizán started up the north face. They climbed through m...
Savoia Kangri, southeast face, attempt. A seven member Japanese expedition led by Koichi Ezaki attempted unclimbed Savoia Kangri (a.k.a. Summa Ri, 7,263m), just west of K2. The peak had only been attempted twice. In 1982 a team of Czechoslovakians...
Zillertal und Alpbachtal, Ein Bildwerk. By Simon Moser. Innsbruck: Tyroler Verlag, 1956. Illustrations. Price 48 Sch.Like all photo-books which Professor Moser has published, this collection of 89 pictures of Zillertal and Alpbachtal presents the ...
Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of 6 Belorussians, 4 Russians and two Bulgarians was led by Belorussian Sergei Novikov. Russia’s best known woman climber, Yekaterina Ivanova, and the best known female alpinist of Bulgaria, Yordanka...
Jikji (6,235m). In July and August a Korean expedition made the possible first ascent of a 6,235m peak they called Jikji, above the South Charakusa Glacier. This peak is connected to Drifika (6,447m) by a long ridge extending to the south, and is ...
Annapurna Summer Attempt. A Japanese expedition of five led by Ichiro Hosoda attempted to climb Annapurna’s north face by the Dutch Rib but had to give up at 5840 meters on August 10 after two camps were destroyed by avalanches during the three we...
OVERDUE—MISSING, PROBABLY FALL ON ROCK/SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEOregon, Mount Hood, Cathedral RidgeKen Budlong (45), an experienced Portland climber, was reported overdue from a solo climb of Cathedral Ridge on Monday, September 26. On Sunday night he ...
Cashan Este, from the East. On July 12 Richard Soaper, Bob Wilson, Carolyn Griffin and I climbed Cashan Este (5723 meters, 18,777 feet) from the Quebrada Rurec. We were camped at 15,750 feet above a small glacier lake, east of Cashan Este. We foll...
Mt. Moroni, East Face, Plan B, Previously Unreported. Plan B (IV 5.10 C1, or 5.12b, 6 pitches, 8 bolts) is located on the southern end of Mt. Moroni and is distinguished by the massive roof in the right-facing corner halfway up the wall. This is a...
Shispare. On June 16, Yukiteru Masui, leader, Seiji Watanabe, Tsuyoshi Ozawa, Hitoshi Kokubu, Naoki Satoh and I started from Barut with two high-altitude porters and 70 local porters. On the 18th, we made Base Camp at 4100 meters at Youch on the n...
P 6225 and Sinclair Mountain, East of Lynn Canal. Dana van Burgh and I made the first ascent of P 6225, one of the highest peaks on the eastern side of Lynn Canal between Skagway and Haines, which we have called “Mordor.” It dominates the view nor...