Mount Hunter, South Face and RidgeDean RauAvoice shattered the feelings of unreality that had plagued me during my sixth night alone in the ice cave. I stepped outside and after a moment of silence heard either Don Black, John Waterman, or Dave Ca...
AVALANCHE-UNSAFE CONDITIONS, WEATHER, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO ICE AXAlaska, Chugach State Park, Flat Top MountainOn Saturday November 11, Nick Coltman (36) and his dog Boozer decided to get some exercise and do a fast hike up Flat T...
Manaslu Attempt. The 1978 Colorado Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu (26,760 feet) consisted of Dr. Charles Clark (deputy leader), Dr. Dee Crouch, Bruce Gordon, John Gordon, David Jones, Paul Parker, Sandy Read, Gerry Roach and me as leader. Verne a...
This is the thirty-seventh issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering published by The American Alpine Club.Canada: At the time of publication, the only available data from Canada were five reports sent in by David Jones and some newspape...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—ICE TOOLAlberta, Jasper National Park, Shades of BeautyOn November 25, three experienced ice climbers were climbing Shades of Beauty (III WI4), a three-pitch waterfall ice route in the Sunwapta River Valley of Ja...
FALL ON SNOW, BAD WEATHEROregon, Mount HoodAt 2:30 a.m. on Sunday, June 21, a group from the Mazamas gathered at the Cloud Cap Inn on the northeast side of Mount Hood and began a trek toward the summit via the Cooper Spur route.As the group was de...
Liberty Mountain, North Ridge. For years we had looked at this steep ridge from a distance, always fearing the horrible brush fight that separated it from the distant access roads. On June 1 Ron Miller and I made the first ascent of the ridge by w...
Lotte Pine Peak, South Corner. On May 26–27 Miguel Carmona and I established the South Corner (V 5.9 C1) on Lone Pine Peak. Our route takes the most direct line to the area where all of the routes on this part of the south face (Direct South Face,...
Mount Slesse, Northeast Buttress, First Winter Ascent. During the first eight days of March, Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis made the first winter ascent of the northeast buttress of Mount Slesse. After helicoptering to the base, the pair spent the next ...
Mount Huntington, South Ridge. An attempt in early July to climb the entire south ridge was an utter failure. Rotten sugar snow without any base prevailed due to the lack of the normal spring thaw. Avalanching was considerable. However, we did lea...
Peaks 9,035', 9,400'+, and 9,436', first ascents. Peak 11,000', attempt. On June 2 Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Nikonda Glacier at 7,200 feet for reconnaissance. I soloed the east face of Peak 9,035'. The climb started...
Observations on the Chinese Everest Expedition 1960. The most important account of the Chinese Everest undertaking is Shih Chan-Chun’s article, which the news service of New China has circulated and was published in many languages in 1961. In it w...
As always we are extremely grateful to those friends who have given us such great help in putting together this section. Indeed without their assistance it could not exist. We wish to thank in particular Dr. G. O. Dyhrenfurth, Dr. Adolph Diemberge...
Mount Augusta’s South RidgeWilliam PillingMOUNT AUGUSTA STANDS forty miles from the Gulf of Alaska, surrounded by the largest glacial system in North America. Though it seems modest when viewed next to Logan, St. Elias and Vancouver, yet it has a ...
Matt Helliker and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on May 6 to unseasonably warm weather and spotted a good unclimbed line on Mt. Grosvenor. Superb thin ice and mixed climbing in the center of the north face, between the Walsh-Westman routes Warriors Wa...
Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park. In June, James Cook, David Hickey and I climbed this outstanding eight-pitch route on the lower east face of this grand monolith. The line follows a two-foot-wide quartz dike for the entire route. It is...
Storm Over Denali. Thomas Pollard. Diocese of Springfield Massachusetts, 1995. Video. 50 minutes. $30.00.Mount McKinley: Climbing the West Buttress of Denali. Kevin Flynn. The Flynn Agency, Rochester, New York, 1995. Video. 50 minutes. $29.95.Two ...
Mount Paget, South Georgia. The highest peak of Mount Paget (9625 feet) was climbed for the first time by members of the British Combined Services Expedition to the Antarctic. Following the route taken in the first ascent of the slightly lower wes...
Koh-i-Marchech, West Ridge, Shkurigal Valley, Hindu Kush. In 1968, while making a documentary film (A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, pp. 330-4), we looked fondly at the west ridge of Koh-i-Marchech (c. 20,176 feet)* at the head of the Shkurigal valley, the lar...
Stone Groove. This two-pitch route follows a vertical crack between the Rorp and Independent Pinnacle. Jim Bridwell and I climbed it in May. The crux is a finger jam in a dihedral 20 feet above the ground and the rest of the pitch continues jammin...