Maiktoli Ascent. Lavraj Sinh led an Indian team from Almora, Kumaon to the summit (6803 meters) on September 21 via the south face. The 12-member team approached the mountain from the Sunderdhunga Valley in the south. They established three camps ...
Arcturus, Northwest Face of Half Dome. Late in the afternoon of July 18, Dick Dorworth and I arrived at the base of the northwest face of Half Dome. It was like a furnace there. The spring, as we had feared, was dry, but luckily we discovered a tr...
Huascarán, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition of 18 climbers was in the region in August, mostly in the Quebrada Llanganuco. On August 13 Montserrat Jou, Ricard Cots, Joseph Salvans and Xavier Sola climbed the normal route on Chopicalqui. Pisco Oeste...
Tharkot, Kumaon and Hathi Varbat, Garhwal. Indians made several ascents in 1963, which were not reported in the A.A.J., 1964. On June 1 Tharkot (20,010 feet) was climbed by K. P. Sharma, B. B. Ambastha, K. S. Thapa and the Sherpas Lhakpa and Hisse...
Gothic Peak, West Face. The Sultan Basin road goes by the base of the west face of Gothic Peak, long an objective of mine. On July 9, Gary Rose and I started up through the wet brush so characteristic of early morning climbs in this area. Soon a s...
Huascarán High-Altitude Research. Dr. Makoto Hara led his second Japanese high-altitude research expedition to Huascarán. (The first had been to Tharkot in Garhwal in 1977.) Two physiologists and a nurse also accompanied the 33 men and four women,...
Ancohuma, 21,030 ft., in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia, has after the lapse of a number of years been climbed again, also by German climbers. Messrs. Erwin Hein and Hans Weber succeeded during a week’s trip from Sorata in ascending the mountain f...
Lizard Head, East Face. Highest peak in the Cirque of the Towers region, 12,842-foot Lizard Head is a long scramble from Lonesome Lake, but the “east face, overlooking Bear Lake, is a series of overhanging upside-down ledges, impossible to contemp...
Conness, Plan B. In June Paul Teare and I went in to Conness with a plan to climb the Harding Route, while keeping a keen eye on the possibility of something new. We realized our fate when we saw two climbers above us heading toward the Harding Ro...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierThis accident occurred as a RMI guided team was descending from the summit. Two rope teams were clipped into the same fixed line when the avalanche occurred. The avalanche caught the first rope team, which pulled ...
Palung Peak, Siguang Peak, Cho Oyu, Attempts and Ascents. Together with my wife Marija I joined the Croatian Cho Oyu Expedition led by Darko Berljak. Above basecamp we worked separately. We wanted to climb a new route on the northwest ridge of the...
Two Other Attempts on Siulá Chico. A solo attempt by the German Fritz Stammberger and another try by a Japanese expedition from Kansai University of seven climbers led by Hiroshi Sugihara met with very little success.
St. Elias, Southwest Ridge. Josef Hassler and I made the eleventh ascent of Mount St. Elias, the fourth of the southwest ridge and the first in alpine style. We took eight days round trip from Base Camp. We were flown from Yakutat by Mike Ivers on...
Mt. McKinley’s northwest face, Father and Sons Wall, The Great White Fright. Having barely survived the crux of any Alaskan trip, we dragged ourselves from the acrid atmosphere of the Fairview and flew to Kahiltna base camp. Exchanging hangover fo...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPELLER, CLIMBING UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainIn April 1981, a person was rappelling from Crowders Mountain when he knocked off an unroped climber. (Source: T. C. P. Zimmermann)AnalysisWhile there are no furt...
Lucania, Steele, Sluggard, Macauly.* On June 16, Robbie Babb, Bob and Richie Kyrlach and I, all from Albuquerque, were flown by Jack Wilson to Base Camp at the head of the Chitina Glacier. Although the highest peaks had been climbed from other dir...
Table Mountain, Death Picnic. Due west of Austin Pass and the Mount Baker Ski Area is a mesa-like peak called Table Mountain. When it is cold, the east and northwest faces offer good one- and two-pitch ice climbs. In December of 1985 I attempted a...
Moose’s Tooth. In July Yvon Chouinard, Galen Rowell, Sandy Bill and I made another attempt on the southeast face of the Moose’s Tooth. After two days on the face in good weather we reached the high point of the year before. However I fell sick and...
Langpo Gang, Jugal Himal. Another Japanese expedition was also in Nepal at the same time. Under the leadership of Tokujiro Kajimoto, they climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit of Langpo Gang (Big White Peak) (23,240 feet) but they had...
Kharchakund. Our expedition consisted of the following: Yoshiki Yamanaka, Masao Mizuno, Toshiharu Hashimoto, Yoshitaka Tanimura, Kaoru Ueno and me as leader. We climbed the west ridge from the Ghanohim Glacier. There had been three unsuccessful In...