Mount Barrille and Peak 9260. After their ascent of McKinley, Major Banks’ party flew to the Ruth Glacier, where four of them made the third ascent of Mount Barrille. Banks and Wiltshire then made the first ascent of Peak 9260, one mile northeast ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn Saturday July 31, Don Ivie (44) arrived in Jackson with his wife Yvette from Springfield, Missouri. That afternoon, Ivie visited the Jenny Lake Ranger Stat...
Mount Rainier, North Mowich Face. On June 25, Rob Schaller and I completed a new route on the eastern edge of the Mowich Face. From a high camp on a rock island in the North Mowich Glacier (9000 feet), we approached the steep icefall which is a pr...
LOUIS SAMUEL STUR1924-1989Do not go gently into that good night, Old Age should burn and rave at close of day; Rage, rage against the dying of the light.—Dylan ThomasEveryone has a Louis Stur story. There’s the one about two old climbers resting o...
Paintbrush on the HeightsBelmore BrowneNO clan on earth possesses memories that transcend those of the men and women who love the high places. From the "World’s White Rooftree"to the once mythical mountains of the Moon; from the chalet-dotted slop...
Attempt on Mount St. Elias. From July 1 to 14 Bob Baker, Hans Müller, Gary Rose, Ted Schotten, Tom Stewart, Hall Williams and I as leader reconnoitered the northern approach to the west ridge of St. Elias with the hope of possibly climbing the pea...
Quelluant, Cordillera Real. Our group was made up of Pedro Laurys- sens, Captain Benjamin Nazar, Dr. Pedro Cirrincione, Marcelo Quiroga, Raúl Angel Espiño and me. After our arrival in La Paz on July 15, 1963, we were cordially received by the Club...
Mount Clark, Southwest Face. This long face was first climbed by Joe McKeown and me on August 19. We began just left of the single chimney system and climbed some 200 feet to loose blocks where we traversed into the chimney and ascended to an alco...
Yerupajá, West Face; Yerupajá Chico, North Face; Yerupajá Sur, West Face; Rasac, East Face. Our expedition was composed of Eric Decamp, Bernard Due, Roger Pagny, Alex Smetanine and me as leader. We did all climbs alpine-style without fixed ropes. ...
In June and July Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to the Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum I. Unfortunately, due to the inefficiency of the agency that organized our logistics, it took 45 days t...
“Chutine Peak”, Owens Peak, and Other Peaks of the Stikine Region. When an anticipated trip to Mount Logan fell through at the last moment I began scrambling to rescue something from the summer season. Two years previously my wife Betty and I and ...
A Challenge on Mount AdamantAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndFROM the mountaineer’s point of view, the Granite Range of the Northern Selkirks probably represents the culminating point of the Interior Ranges. Its firm rock, soaring to almost 11,000 feet in...
Chopicalqui, North Ridge, 1977. The French climbers A. Bouyssière, J. Lacaze and Ch. Mourembles climbed Chopicalqui from the north. They fixed 2000 feet of rope on the difficult rocks of the northeast spur of the lower buttress up to about 18,700 ...
TABLE III1951–95USA1959–95CAN.1996USA1996CAN.TerrainRock336939895Snow200029738Ice180842River1231Unknown2260Ascent or DescentAscent296942291Descent184328648Unknown324730Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock232421268Slip on snow or ice75415220Falling ...
McHenry’s Peak, Northwest Face, Rocky Mountain National Park. Late in the fall of 1978 Bill Feiges and I departed the Bear Lake parking area at 2:30 A.M. for a headlamp approach to the hanging valley below the northwest face of McHenry’s. We enter...
BAD WEATHER, EXHAUSTION, FROSTBITE Washington, Mt. RainierA search and rescue operation which involved the use of five aircraft, four Seattle Mountain Rescue members and numerous NPS employees was completed on May 8. This operation rescued one cli...
Leaning Tower, West Face. The Leaning Tower rises 1863 feet above the floor of Yosemite Valley about 400 yards to the right of Bridalveil Falls. Charles Michael made the first ascent by the eastern slope (date unknown). A route up the west face, h...
Everest and LhotseGlenn Porzak*OUR 1990 AMERICAN Everest-Lhotse Expedition had a dual objective. Not only would we seek to climb Mount Everest but we would also attempt neighboring Lhotse, the world’s fourth highest peak. This was also the highest...
Everest, the rescue of Lincoln Hall. At 7:30 a.m. on May 26 a team of four climbers comprising Andrew Brash from Canada, Myles Osborne from the UK, Jangbu Sherpa from Nepal, and I, an American living in Bristol, UK, were at 8,550m, about two hours...
P 6190 Attempt. An expedition of five U.S. climbers attempted a first ascent of this beautiful unnamed peak from the K7 Base Camp near the head of the Charakusa Glacier. We arrived at Base Camp on August 4. We decided on the striking northwest are...