OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Avalanche PeakTwo climbers on Avalanche Peak found themselves separated. One of the climbers with no previous experience down-climbed a series of small cliffs until he fo...
Mount Lester and Woodrow Wilson. On August 5 Court Richards, Larry Evans and I made a new route on the north face of the west portion of double-summited Mount Lester, using twelve pitons in the good rock on this face. The upper portion was more di...
Iowa Mountaineers. In 1951 membership increased to 1365. Mountaineering classes were continued, and the Club’s system for rating qualifications was revised. Qualifications are now similar to those of the Colorado Mountain Club. The safety record w...
Arches Terrace Direct. On October 6 Bob Grow, Kelly Minnick, and I succeeded at a line Bob first tried four years before. All pitches included sections of F8 severity. Some very classic jam-cracks and two short but delicate face-climbing sections ...
Huandoy Norte, East Face. Del Johns and I set out together, but at the base of the east face at about 18,000 feet, he began to get nauseous and returned to a more comfortable altitude. I started climbing the 3000-foot face at five P.M. It was a ty...
Shakhaur, Roshgol area. After their successful ascent of Momhil Sar, Rudolf Pischinger and Horst Schindelbacher joined fellow Austrians, Gerald Gruber, leader, and Reiner Göschl. Approaching via the Tirich and Tidren valleys, they climbed two new ...
Martin Peak, from Surprise Basin. Joe Munson and Jim Parolini completed a new route on this 7550-foot peak on August 26 from the prominent terminal moraine. An adjoining chute was ascended, keeping left of the Arrowhead to the summit. This class 3...
Kitaraju, Allpamayo, Southwest Face and Tragedy. Peter Millar and I made Base Camp at the junction of the Quebradas Arweiqocha and Santa Cruz. After several days, we camped in the Allpamayo-Kitaraju col. On July 18 we enjoyed a climb on the north ...
Pico del Norte, South Buttress and Gorra de Hielo, Cordillera Real. In the late spring we climbed in the Cordillera Real and made several new routes from Base Camp on the east side of Illampu. Alain Mesili, Bernard Chaux and I took three days to c...
Bridge Creek Wall, “Wet and Wild. ” In December of 1983, Matt Kerns and I climbed the waterfall that forms in the gully system to the left of Bridge Creek Wall. The approach from the Icicle Creek Road took four hours. The first pitch was 100 feet ...
Northern Andes, Bonete group. The Argentinian Mountaineering Association, to commemorate its 10th anniversary, organized an expedition to Bonete Chico, located at 27°55' S and 68045' W, in the northern extreme of the province of La Rioja. Besides ...
WEATHER-HIGH WINDS, FALL ON TO ROCKSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 7, Craig Dreher (30) and Gene Williamson (30) decided to abort their winter attempt of the Keyhole Route due to high winds. As they were retreating f...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis. (See accident report) The doctor in the climbing party applied a plastic pneumatic splint to victim Henry Monroe. At 4:00 P.M. a park ranger chanced upon the accident scene. The ranger and climbers...
SLIP ON WET ROCK, BELAY FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEColorado, McGregor SlabLate in the afternoon on July 10, 1983, Bob Gatzemeyer (29) lost control of his rappel while descending McGregor Slab, tumbled and fell free about five meters, landin...
Italian Expedition to Kulu. An Italian expedition from the Roman section of the Club Alpino Italiano climbed in the mountains north of the Parbati River in Kulu. After a week’s approach march, on May 11 they established Base Camp at 12,800 feet in...
Sickle Moon, Northwest Face Attempt, Kishtwar Himalaya. The Cumbria Himalayan Expedition, comprising A1 Morgan, Dave Robbins, Mike Rafferty, Alan Deakin, Duncan Holdsworth, Lin Rutland and me as leader, attempted the northwest face of Sickle Moon ...
First Ascents in the Behrendt Mountains and Bean Peaks, and Other Activity. In December and January, the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) Field Assistant Phil Wickens again made a number of ascents with his party in the course of their geological wo...
Mount Robson, Second Ascent of North Face. The nearly 8000-foot rise to the summit of Mount Robson from Berg Lake challenged Peter Lev, Jocelyn (Jock) Glidden and me in August, 1968. After approaching the mountain in fine weather, we climbed to th...
Arizona, Carefree Area (Near Phoenix). On 13 March, a climbing group consisting of 11 climbers, three being Arizona Mountain members were engaged in a practice climb. The climb is a short 3 pitch route consisting of a vertical crack face, an 18 to...
Gasherbrum II. Actually we were two expeditions which combined to save money. We lived much off the food of the region, particularly chapatties, which contributed to much dysentery. We placed Base Camp at 17,400 feet and Camps I, II and III at 19,...