North America, United States, Colorado, Garden of the Gods
Garden of the Gods. On North Gateway, the old bolt ladder, The Zipper, was free-climbed by Jeff Britt and me (150 feet, 5.11). The pitch involves sustained face climbing up a steep prow, with ten protection bolts and drilled angles remaining on the old aid ladder. The route is recommended for its solid rock and good protection. On the Finger Face, Richard and Fred Aschert climbed Mr. Fred (150 feet, 5.10R) a direct two-pitch line up steep run-out loose rock. The climb finishes by crossing through the final traverse pitch of Dancing In Swineland. All drilled angles were placed from stances. On South Gateway, Bob D’Antonio, Fred and Richard Aschert climbed Cold Turkeys (150 feet, 5.11 + ). The climb starts up Cocaine then moves left and ascends a smooth, difficult slab. One placement was made on rappel to complete the route. This climb is also highly recommended.
Mark Rolofson, Unajfiliated