Annapurna Attempt. A New Zealand-Australian-American expedition of four was led by New Zealander Robert Hall. They had got no higher than 5600 meters on the north face of Annapurna and were still establishing their second high camp when, on April ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HEAVY PACK, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsGeorge Cooney (25) was part of a nine member group of instructors from an outdoor adventure program who had come to the Tetons on their time off for s...
Cerro Negro Aspero. In the winter of 1989, in August, we attempted this massive mountain but a blizzard drove us back. At the beginning of the southern summer Humberto Campodónico, Roberto Pereyra and I made a successful second try. On November 18...
Cathedral Rock. Randy Johnson, Terri Van Hollebeke and I did a new route on this peak on July 1, 1973. It begins in an obvious chimney on the southeast face; the first lead ascends a mossy dihedral out of a cave and ends at a tree. Two leads of cl...
Teewinot (12,100). Among the seven 1931 ascents of this peak were two traverses which involved new routes :(1) Ranger Frank Smith and the writer made a west-to-east traverse from Teton Glacier on June 22nd (first ascent from the west).(2) On July ...
K2 from the North. Our expedition of 22 repeated the 1982 route of the Japanese on the north side of K2 under the leadership of Francesco Santon. The Home Camp was at 12,600 feet at Sunghet Jangal in the Sarpolago valley. We then put a depot at 13...
CerroAzara and Cerro Bravo. These two summits are located just north of Paso del Viento, and are linked by a shallow ridge. Cerro Azara (1,950m) was first climbed in March 1916 by Alfredo Kolliker and Lutz Witte. On December 6 Spaniards José Ferná...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE AREA SECURITY California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn October 16, 1988, at 1415, a rock was dislodged and fell about 15 meters, striking two individuals—Pat Teague (40) and Pam Viviano (19). This accident occurred in G...
Everest Attempt and Tragedy. We were Y. Miyaji, S. Ishii, M. Nagamachi, S. Shimada, T. Sasaki, K. Hoshino, K. Ohta, Ms. M. Hasegawa, Ms. Y. Tanaka and I as leader. Our initial plan was to reach the peak on October 1, Chinese Foundation Day, I solo...
Caullaraju, Raria, Huandoy and Aguja Nevada Groups, 1973. (Details missing in A.A.J., 1974, p. 177 are found here.—Editor.) The Torun section of the Polish Mountaineering Club was composed of Tadeusz Laukajtys, leader, Roman Gutkowski, Witold Jurk...
California—two miles northwest of Ladder Lake in the Black Divide, Bishop Area: Charles Bays Locker (21) took three younger boys, Gary (13) and Karl (15) Hufbauer and Donald Albright (17) on a high trip into the Bishop Area. Bays was a member of t...
Gigante Grande, West Face, Quimsa Cruz. In July, Argentine Teo Plaza and Spaniard Iñaqui San Vicente made the first ascent of the west face of Gigante Grande. The 650-meter-high face had mixed climbing of UIAA V difficulty and ice up to 75°.
FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 23 at noon, Marcus Hall (30) took a five meter leader fall from La Chaim, a 5.7 route on the Pear. Hall slipped while he was attempting to clip the fir...
Spokane Mountaineers. Growing interest in skiing activity and active recruiting of climbing school students swelled club membership to 90 in 1957. A well-planned series of evening classes and field practice sessions was conducted by the climbing c...
Table IIAccident Rate and Mortality Rate for Mountaineers in United States and AlaskaAgeGroupAv. reported man mountain days/yr.Av. No. reported mountaineerint accidents/yr.Accident rate per 1000 1 reported man mountain daysAv. No.recorded deaths d...
Peak 12,960+, South Face, Zig-Zag Dihedral. This peak has also been referred to as Peak 13,016 and Peak 3985 meters. Its large south face, about one mile west of the South Face of Lone Pine Peak, already had two long routes, done by Rowell, Jones ...
On May 31, Maeve Devlin (19) and I, John-Mark Toth (22), hiked up to the classic Snake Dike route. From the base of the climb I led up the polished, low angle fourth class section to the 5.7 traverse that goes left under the roof. Here I placed ...
P6702 or VasukiParbatSouth, 1988. Italians Massimo Marchegianni, Tiziano Cantalamessa and Marcello Ceci made the first ascent of P 6702 (21,988 feet), which lies just south of Vasuki Parbat. They climbed the east face alpine-style in four days and...
Mount Pershing from the East. This early season climb was first done in May from the end of the extended Jefferson Lake road by Roy Etten, Robert Woods, Jack Christensen and Don Bechlem. Route finding was the only problem.
Pokharkan, first ascent of the south face. The Alpine Club Damodar expedition was led by Steve Town with Dick Isherwood as deputy. Other members were David Baldock, John Fairley, Toto Gronlund, Martin Scott, Pete and Sara Spillet, Bill Thurston, a...