Mount Logan, Schoening Ridge. In 1971, the Alpine Club of Canada planned an expedition to Mount Logan via a new ridge on the south face. In due course, it was decided to make an attempt, via the southwest spur, immediately east of Schoening’s Ridg...
Shartse II. Our joint Korean-Nepalese expedition was composed of Koreans Yoon Dae-Pyo, Kwak Hyo-Kyun, Park Byung-Won, Hu Jung-Sik, Hong Ok- Sun, Miss Kim Jung-Ja and me as leader and Nepalese Sherpas Nima Wanchu, Nuru Wangchu and Ang Pasang. We ar...
Himlung, Attempt. The members of the expedition were Götz Wiegand (leader), Frank Meutzner, Olaf Zill, Matthias Braun, Tilo Bähr and myself. We started our expedition in September. Before starting out to attempt Himlung, we met Miss Elizabeth Hawl...
Dhampus Attempt. Hubert Blondeau, Guy Petermann, Alain Trouillet, Alain and Régine Roche, Claire and Jacques Libanet and I established Base Camp at 5400 meters on Dhampus in October. We made a try to 5650 meters, but very heavy snowfall and cerebr...
Noshaq Attempt. An eight-man expedition from Matsusho Gakuen Junior College was led by Hiromi Koana. After being refused permission for the Pakistani (south) side, they came from the north. Base Camp was set up on the North Atrak Glacier at 15,000...
Latok Group. Eleven Polish climbers led by Aleksander Lwow visited the Latok group in the Panmah Mustagh. They had hoped to climb Latok III’s south face and wanted to test climbing conditions in May, before the usual season. Base Camp was establis...
Quimaraju and Huamashraju. On July 8 Woody (Curtis W.) Stark and I ascended Quimaraju (17,737 feet) from a camp above the icefall at the head of the Quebrada Shallap. Our new route ascended the north side of the peak and it involved a number of pi...
Changtse. A large joint Japanese-Chinese expedition was made up of 17 Japanese, 19 Chinese climbers, five Chinese supporters and three Chinese press members. The Japanese leader was T. Horiuchi. They arrived at Base Camp at 5050 meters on April 23...
San Rafael Swell, Bottleneck Peak, Fumbling Toward Ecstasy. With Laura Zaruba, on October 12, I climbed Fumbling Toward Ecstasy (four pitches, 5.10) on Bottleneck Peak. The route takes a right-facing corner system on the right side of the north fa...
P 6940 Attempt and Ascent of Peak Near Skilbrum. A seven-man Japanese team led by Tadakiyo Sakahara had originally been planning to climb Gasher- brum II, but they suffered such delays in Islamabad that when they arrived at the Baltoro Glacier, th...
Nun, northwest face, attempt. In September Jean-Marc Challandes, Sebastien Gerber, Andreas Hutter, Berhard Spack, and we established an advance base camp at 5,400m on the big plateau that lies at the foot of the l,700m-high northwest face of Nun. ...
Mount St. Elias Attempt and Climbs in the Tombstone Mountains. My three brothers, Herbert, Wolfgang, Bernhard, and I in the summer of 1981 were back in the St. Elias Mountains. We had as our goal the unclimbed northwest ridge of Mount St. Elias. T...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (3) Symmetry Spire, Jensen Ridge—On August 2, Frederick E. Wright, Jr. (19) and Frederick Medrick (19) were just starting to climb the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire. Wright was leading and was 60 to 70 feet abov...
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. Big news was the free climbing of two El Capitan routes. The first to go was Lurking Fear, which fell at the able hands of Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell (see note below). In 1994, Steve Schneider, with help from...
STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, FATIGUECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn March 31, Joel Seton (16) and Jeffrey Inman (17) got stuck on The Nose of El Cap. At 4:30 p.m., Ranger Griffiths received a report that someone was calling for help from the Nose route on...
EQUIPMENT FAILURE—HOMEMADE RIVET HANGER, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 29, at 1430, Canadian climber John Chilton (36) started leading the A1 rivet ladder on pitch 24 of the Shield, heading for Chickenhead Ledge. At abo...
Cholatse, first winter ascent of north face, by new variants to French Route. Koreans Park Jung-hun and Choi Kang-sik reached the summit of 6,440m Cholatse at midday on January 16, having made the first winter ascent of the north face. The two arr...
K2, Attempt from the West and Ascent from the South. Poles Wojciech Kurtyka, Krzysztof Wielicki and I spent three and a half weeks of hard work on the Sickle on the west side of K2 before we abandoned the effort as being too dangerous. We then red...
This is the fifteenth annual report of the Safety Committee and the second in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. The addition of the reports from Canada has been worthwhile and documents more completely the accidents that have occurred in...
The Denali Medical Research Project, 1982-85Peter H. Hackett, M.D., Robert C. Roach, M.S., Robert B. Schoene, M.D., Frank Hollingshead, M.D. and William J. Mills, Jr., M.D.IN THE MONTHS OF MAY and June of 1982, 1983, and 1985 the Department of Hig...