PROTECTION PLACEMENT AND JUDGMENT—Washington, Cascades, Mt. Index. At 9:30 a.m., 17 August 1974, Ed Vervoort and John Rice were climbing the north face route on the North Peak of Mt. Index, a climb rated Class 4/Grade III in Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide. They had climbed the first several hundred feet of the ascent unroped, but roped up upon reaching the trickier pitches about 700 feet above the base of the peak. They were approximately 100 feet to the left of a party of four which was on the actual route, and were actually around on the east face above a section of vertical cliffs and isolated ledges.

Vervoort was leading, with about 100 feet of rope out and one chock in place when he lost his hold and fell, pulling the chock out. Vervoort hit on his back near Rice, and continued to fall down the sheer face below. He hit the end of the rope while against the face, a total fall of around 150 to 175 feet. Rice miraculously held the belay even though he was pinned against his belay anchor and the load restricted his breathing. The fact that Vervoort was wearing a large rucksack full of gear with an ice axe on the back and a good helmet undoubtedly saved his life.

The party of four on the normal route heard and saw the fall. The two lower climbers, A1 Christopherson and Fred Sayer, were unable to reach the victim from their position. The two upper climbers, Richard Kegel and Russ Kroeker, made their way over to Rice, who was tangled up in slings and the rope and near blacking out. It took Kegel, the first to reach him, about 15 minutes to help free the tangle and relieve the pressure on Rice. Kegel and Rice then proceeded to lower Vervoort to a ledge about 50 feet below him but were delayed for several minutes by the necessity of adding a second rope to go the distance. A party below the peak was hailed and a man sent out to alert the Snohomish County Sheriff.

Once everyone was secure, Christopherson and Sayer went down to assist the rescue party. Rice rappeled down to Vervoort and determined that Vervoort had back injuries in addition to his rather numerous bruises and scrapes and possible head injury, and that a stretcher evacuation would definitely be in order. He stayed with Vervoort until a Navy CH-66 helicopter from the Rescue Unit at Whidbey Island Naval Air Station, through what can only be described as spectacular airmanship, was able to hover above the wall while Vervoort was loaded on a stretcher. This took some time as the ledge is only 18 inches wide. When Vervoort and Rice were winched aboard it was 4 p.m.

Rice was treated for injuries to his ungloved hand (from holding the fall) and released immediately. Vervoort was taken to Seattle, where he spent nine days in the hospital with two broken ribs and a broken vertebra. (Source: Fred Sayer.)

Analysis: Ratings by guidebooks or any other source are ultimately subjective and should be used as an indicator of what to expect only on the described route. Don’t let ratings push you into overextending or underprotecting yourself. Use your own judgment. The length of the lead generally should be proportional to the amount of protection placed. Otherwise, the use of a rope becomes nonfunctional. When Vervoort was on the ledge, there was some discussion about helping him climb down the mountain. A pessimistic evaluation of the severity of the fall definitely prevented the aggravation of an already serious condition. Also, the use of a hardhat on even a fourth class route can result in a safety factor of equal importance to the rope itself. (Sources: Rodger Gordon and Fred Sayer.)