Bugaboo AdventuresFred BeckeyEast Face of Snowpatch SpireThe days of route pioneering are still young in North America, especially in Canada where there are many great faces, as well as peaks, still to be conquered. Destiny is almost certain to fa...

The Alpine Museum of MunichHarriet GeithmannIN the heart of Munich stands the Alpine Museum on an island in the Isar River which travels across Bavaria for one hundred and seventy-five miles before it joins the blue Danube. A better location could...

ARTHUR K. GILKEY1926-1953Art Gilkey, elected to the Club in 1950, and a member of the Third American Karakoram Expedition, died August 10, 1953. In critical condition from thrombophlebitis suffered at an altitude of 25,500 feet on K2, he was lost ...

This is the twenty-third report of the Safety Committee and the tenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and statistical tables have been corrected to include them.The total...

FALL ON SNOW, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn January 28, a man (44) and his son were attempting to climb the Avalanche Gulch route on Mount Shasta. They were unsuccessful and began descending. Around 1300, the father fell o...

Further Studies of the Dinwoody Glaciers, Wind River Mountains, WyomingMark F. MeierGlaciological studies around Gannett Peak in 19501 suggested that high névé fields were thickening and that the rate of glacier recession was diminishing. The auth...

Cordillera Blanca, other information. New route activity was below normal in 2004, presumably because of atypical unsettled weather and conditions. The following information supplements the new routes individually reported above.On the south face ...

Trango Tower Attempts. We were Ray Button, Geoff Gabites, Ian Jowett and I as leader. Our objective was the Nameless Trango Tower by the British route. We had two camps: Boulder Camp at 16,500 feet, established the day after reaching Base Camp in ...

Canada: Canada submitted narratives for 2009, but no data for Tables.United States: Errata: First, Last year's cover page incorrectly indicated the Volume as being #10. It should read #9. We bind four to six Numbers, depending upon total number of...

Fitz Roy, Los Ultimos Dias del Paraiso. Grega Lacen and I stared on the north face, on the left side of the obvious snow ledge below and right of Tehuelche. The first seven pitches were quite hard, with sandy rock and loose flakes. We free-climbed...

Homathko Snowfield, Coast Range. On July 27, 1957, Richard H. Beatty and I arrived in Princeton, B. C., where we met our friends Alistair Morrison and John Rucklidge, of Cambridge University, England, and with some difficulty continued by car to t...

The Cirque of the Unclimbables, Logan Mountains. Jamie Farrar and I repeated Buckingham’s 1960 routes with minor variations on Terrace Tower, Crescent Spire, and Sir James MacBrien. After abandoning one attempt on the south face of Phenocryst Spir...

GeographicalDistrictsNumberofAccidents1951-1985DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidents1986DeathsTotalPersonInvolveCanadaAlberta2015744018941British Columbia187743841429Yukon Territory2022512110Ontario19538000Quebec13332000East Arctic6218000Wes...

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...

As smooth and beautiful as the great rock faces which surround it, Yosemite’s Washington Column rises sheer from the valley floor to its tree-covered rim, 1500 feet above. After several attempts, in July of 1959 two superb climbers, Warren Hard...

First Ascents in the Southern PicketsEdward CooperIt seems strange that in 1961 there were still unclimbed peaks in the Cascades, but this proved to be the case. These peaks were probably the highest and most remote of the virgin summits left in t...

Annapurna Attempt. A 14-member Korean expedition led by Jang Bong- Wan attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna. On December 19, they reached 7300 meters before abandoning the attempt.Elizabeth Hawley

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CARABINER CAME OFF SLING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWest Virginia, New River Gorge National Park, Beauty MountainOn August 19, approximately twelve or fifteen feet up on a route called “Brainteasers” (5.10 a), CU (21)...

Shawangunk Rock Climbing. Richard DuMais. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1985. 84 color and 31 black and white photographs. $27.50.Since the appearance of CLIMB!, climbing enthusiasts in the East have been waiting for their own version of this classic ...

LOSS ON CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, Tetons, Lower SaddleOn July 27, Shawn Callahan (31) lost control during a voluntary glissade on the snow below the Lower Saddle, near the base of Middle Teton. An Exum Mountain Guide...