Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Bastion Peak, East Face

Bastion Peak, East Face. From camp at Amethyst Lake in the Ramparts, on August 4 Jerry Fuller and I walked around the marshy north end of the lake and climbed snow and then glacier to the final rock walls some 1500 feet beneath the summit ridge of...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Garfield

Washington, Cascades, Mt. Garfield. The party of Mike Kennedy (19) and Roger Jackson set out to climb a previously unclimbed spire near Mt. Garfield, on June 21. The weather was dry and warm. The spire required some high angle rock climbing. Kenne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Nanda Devi, South Ridge

Nanda Devi, South Ridge. On June 21 David Hambly, David Mc- Clung, William Fryberger, Bruce Byers, Steve Casebold and Glenn Brindeiro of the 1978 Seattle-Garhwal Himalaya Expedition made the seventh recorded ascent of Nanda Devi (25,645 feet) by t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Peak Shear, First Ascent, Mt. Tyree, Northeast Couloir, and Mt. Vinson, Tragedy

Peak Shear, First Ascent, Mt. Tyree, Northeast Couloir, and Mt. Vinson, Tragedy. The French High Mountaineering Military Group (GMHM) was in Antarctica this season. It established several new routes from a base camp on the Patton Glacier. P. De Ch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Hunter South Ridge

Hunter, South Ridge. During May, Ed Hart and I climbed the south ridge of Hunter, partly by the 1973 Waterman-Carman-Black route, traversed the mountain and descended the west ridge in a 12-day alpine-style ascent. We were flown to the Tokositna G...


Accident Reports ANAM
New York, Shawangunks

New York, Shawangunks. On 18 May deVries was leading on an overhang known as Shackley’s Ceiling near top of the cliffs. He was clipped into a piton just under the overhang by means of a sling and two carabi- ners. Neave was belaying deVries from a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Western Hindu Kush

Ahmad Shah Hindu Kush (Salang Region). The Kraków expedition led by Jerzy Wala started its activities near the Khenjan valley. (See above for the later explorations and climbs) While geomorphic work was being carried out under the direction of L. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Caullaraju Group

Caullaraju Group. A Brazilian expedition authorized by the União Brasileira de Excursionismo operated in the Caullaraju group of the beautiful Cordillera Blanca. Because of my previous expeditions there, I was put in charge of the group made up of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North Attempt

Nilgiri North Attempt. Three South Koreans led by Oh In Hawan attempted to climb Nilgiri North by its south face. They established two high camps but did not get beyond 20,350 feet.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Scott Peak, Northwest Face

Scott Peak, Northwest Face. On August 24, Mark Stasic and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Scott Peak (2691 meters, 8828 feet). This route runs from 6500 to 8500 feet and tops out on the ridge between Scott Peak and its subsidiary su...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche or Rockfall, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Deltaform, Supercouloir

AVALANCHE OR ROCKFALLAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Deltaform, SupercouloirOn June 5, two climbers in their early 20’s were reported overdue attempting the Supercouloir route (IV 5.8) on the North face of Mount Deltaform, near Lake Louise, tw...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite, Pass or Fail

Pass or Fail. In November 1971 Gib Lewis and I climbed a three-pitch climb to the west of the Cross Country Crack in the Arch Rock area. The crux is a jam-crack. NCCS II, F10.Rick Sylvester


Club Activities AAJ
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club

The British Columbia Mountaineering Club, in its 66th year of operation, again sponsored a full climbing program with 42 trips attended by 562 members and prospectives, as well as a successful two week camp on Roger’s Pass in the Selkirk Mountains...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, CambRidge Fjord, Alain Estève Peakm Sous l'oeil de Nanouk

Cambridge Fjord, Alain Estève Peak, Sous l’œil de Nanouk. Combining their experience of polar deserts and of mountains all over the world, climbers of the French High Mountain Military Group (GMHM) went to the Canadian north and climbed a virgin p...


Book Reviews AAJ
Field Book, Wind River Range

Field Book. Wind River Range, by Orrin H. Bonney and L. Bonney. Revised. Houston: Published by Bonney and Bonney, 1968, 195 pages, 50 photos, 12 aerial photographs, 10 maps. Price $5.95, hard bound; $3.95, paper.Those acquainted with the first edi...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Club members made several first ascents during the past climbing season. In June junior members Dave Meyers, Nick Parker, and Mike Judd climbed Mount Williwaw (5445 feet) after several previous attempts. Alex Bit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982

Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982. On pages 206 and 208 of A.A.J., 1984, an ascent of Ausangate’s northwest face was described. A photograph of the route appears on page 207. In Lo Scarpone of July 1, 1984, an account a...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C. Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The 1970 year-end section membership was 135. A survey by Mike Rees was sent to members to gauge their interests in climbing and the Club. Publication of the revised guide book to the Olympic Mountains, which is sponsored ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest, Various Activity on the North Side, and Cho Oyu, Various Activity

Everest, Various Activity on the North Side, and Cho Oyu, Various Activity. Ten commercial expeditions on the Tibetan side and two in Nepal (several of them commercial as well) made attempts on Everest, but not a soul got to the top. This was the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif, Sentinel Range

Vinson Massif, Sentinel Range. On November 24, our group reached the summit of the Vinson Massif. We were Pete Ackerman, Bob Failing, John Otter, Bill Martin, Mike Meyer, Dave Tollakson and I. The ascent commenced following our November 17 landing...