FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATArkansas, Sam's ThroneOn March 10, a climber (36) was looking at a climb from the top of a route, but he was not tied in. He fell 50 to 60 feet and suffered major head injuries, fractures, and other ...

Mount Whitney. This long route, The Hairline, ascends between the Great Book and the Direct East Face. It starts with 5.10 face climbing (bolt protected) to attain cracks which don’t quite reach the ground. It crosses the East Face route just belo...

Disteghil Sar, Attempt and Tragedy. It was reported that two Britons and a New Zealander died in an avalanche high on the 25,869-foot Disteghil Sar in August. A Pakistani official in the northern town of Gilgit said the climbers, whom he identifie...

Day Needle, new variation and Whitney Cirque linkup. In late July Jake “The Snake” Whitaker and I climbed a new direct free variation to the East Face of Day Needle in the Mt. Whitney cirque. Prior to our climb I had already learned about Jake’s h...

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Throne MountainOn August 16, an experienced party of five were climbing the notched northeast ridge of Throne Mountain. After reaching the summit, the group was descending, mostly unroped, i...

Oregon Section. Keith Daellenbach along with Kellie Rice were the super-achievers of the Oregon Section on the Madrone Wall Preservation Project. One mile south of the City of Damascus along the Clackamas River Bluffs resides an amazing civic trea...

Cerro Stanhardt, Leonardo Da Vinci. On the west face of Cerro Stanhardt, Frenchmen David Autheman and Antoine Noury attempted a new route to the summit of a pillar attached to the face, which they named “Punta Shanti.” They reached a point 50 mete...

Lhotse Shar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Filip Bence, Janez Benkovic, Vincenc Bercic, Tomo Cesen, Milan Gladek, Silvo Karo, Radivoj Nadvešnik, Janez Plevel, Marko Prezelj, Andrej Štremfelj, Janez Šušteršic, Dr. Peter Panjtar and I a...

Milne Island, Scorseby Sound, East Greenland. From July 29 to August 18, Michael Garrett, Pamela Glanville, Margaret Graham, Philip Nixon, John Shrewsbury, Belinda Swift, Christopher Whitford and I explored the area around the Korridoren Glacier a...

Angelus. The neighboring peak to K2, the Angelus (6885 meters, 22,589 feet), was climbed for the first time by Michel Afanassieff and the Swiss priest Claude Stucki on August 9. From their 16,400-foot Base Camp, they climbed to the base of the sou...

Milpocraju to summit ridge, Goulotte Gau Txoni. Kepa Escribano from Spain and Cristina Prieto from Chile climbed a new route on the west face of the 5,310m north summit of Milpocraju, located just south of the spectacular, well-known Nevado Cayesh...

Wyoming: (3) Tetons. During the summer of 1950 two men in their early twenties climbed Teewinot by the normal route, east face. On the descent they reached the upper snow field at 7:00 P.M., and one of them, against the pleas of his companion, sta...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 13, 1988, Jeff Smith (23) took a ten meter fall while attempting to climb “The Blob” (5.7). An improperly placed piece of protection failed to arrest his fall...

Wells Peak, East Face. This face, north of The Smokestack and Adams Rib, resembles Mount Whitney in miniature. Reconnaissance located a good start and some very continuous face climbing. The final ascent was made on February 23 and 24, 1974, by Ja...

Spitzbergen. There was a number of expeditions active in the mountains of Spitzbergen in the summer of 1955. An Austrian group from the Edelweiss Club in Salzburg under Dr. Walter Frauenberger of Nanga Parbat fame traveled as far as Bethasnia Bay ...

Mount Kennedy and Mount Southesk. Two years ago when Parks Canada took over the area around Mount Kennedy, and Parks Warden Service set up a Public Safety Programme. The first step was to purchase a complete set of mountain rescue equipment as wel...

UNITED STATES CORNICE COLLAPSEAlaska, Mount DeceptionOn April 2, 1990, Jim Bouchard (34) and Gary Donofrio (27) departed the Parks Highway for their approach to climb Mount Deception at 3600 meters. On April 7, they made it to their 1730 meter bas...

Mt. Dalar, North Face, and Traverse. From August 9-13, a team led by V. Ivanov, together with I. Afanasiev, I. Bondarenko, and S. Egorin, all from the North Osetia Rescue Service Team, climbed M. Warburton’s 1976 North Buttress route (6A) on the n...

Nanga Parbat, Southwest Ridge (Kinshofer or Schell Route). We set up the following camps: Base Camp, and Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 4500, 5000, 6180, 6800, 7200 and 7300 meters on July 28, 29, August 5, 7, 9 and 11. Camp IV was just below the B...

Jugal Himal. An expedition of the Yorkshire Ramblers Club to the Jugal Himal (23,240 feet) ended in tragedy. On reconnaissance from Camp IV at 20,000 feet, ahead of the other four members of the group, on April 30 the leader Captain Crosby Fox, Ge...