Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's

Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's. From August 11-20 Duncan Burke and I enjoyed excellent weather and conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park. Driving north from Colorado, our main goal was to climb a new route in The Pigeon Feathers group, locat...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE III Numbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved*1951-81USA1959-81CAN.1982USA1982CAN.TerrainRock17602207516Snow10341875925Ice702396River10200Unknown10401*Ascent or Descent:Ascent14342248926Descent11301414718Unknown2072844Immediate CauseFall or...


Accident Reports ANAM
Off Route—Unfamiliar with Descent, Weather, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

OFF ROUTE–UNFAMILIAR WITH DESCENT, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 11 around 0100, Swis Stockton and Michael Feldman left the Lupine Meadows trailhead with the intention of climbing the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Pamiagdluk Island, Dinas Not, The Jams, the Jams; Dinas Not, Niviarsiaraq Qaamasunik Nujalit

Pamiagdluk Island, Dinas Not, The Jams, the Jams; Dinas Not, Niviarsiaraq Qaamasunik Nujalit. In 2005 we repeated routes on the 1,340m Baron and added two new routes to Dinas Not, a 100- 110m crag on the slopes below the Baron, closer to the fjord...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock — Washington, Mount Buckner

FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount BucknerOn July 21, 1984, a group of eight climbers from The Mountaineers began an outing whose principal objective was an ascent of the North Face of Mount Buckner (3311 meters) in the Cascade Pass area of North Casca...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Party Separated, Oregon, North Sister

FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATEDOregon, North SisterDr. Bruce Shively (55) slipped on the steep friable volcanic rock slopes below the summit of North Sister and fell 600 vertical feet to his death, down one of three possible chutes. Shively was last...


In Memoriam AAJ
Max Harrison Demorest, 1910-1942

MAX HARRISON DEMOREST 1910-1942Lt. Max Harrison Demorest, glaciologist and Fellow of the Geological Society of America, died on November 30th, 1942, in Northern Greenland when the motor sled he was riding, on a specialized Army assignment, broke t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains

Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains. Joe Kelsey. Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1980. 400 pages, illustrations, diagrams, maps, bibliography. $8.95.Joe Kelsey, the author of this book, is perhaps better known as a humorist and the talente...


Notes AAJ
Mt. Vinson, Scientific Studies

Mt. Vinson, Scientific Studies. In combination with the climbing and filming objectives of our expedition (see above), we undertook a glaciological study of snow accumulation in the Sentinel Range and also used a high-precision Global Positioning ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, California, Mount Clark

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Mount ClarkMichael Kalantarian (30) intended to climb the Northwest Arete of Mount Clark on October 15,1986. He had obtained the route description from The Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra, by...


Accident Reports ANAM
Various Falls on Rock, Protection Pulling, Falling Rock, Inadequate Protection, New York, Shawangunks

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLING, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn 2005 there were 14 climbing accident reports, two of which were bouldering falls. Ten of the incidents occurred while ascending. Individuals fell...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya, Karakoram and Eastern Turkestan (1913-1914)

The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya, Karakoram and Eastern Turkestan (1913-14), by Filippo De Filippi, xvi + 528 pages; quarto, with chapters by G. Dainelli and A. Sprenger. Illustrated with two colored plates, fifteen panoramas, four maps, and...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Victorian Mountaineers

The Victorian Mountaineers, by Ronald Clark. 8vo., 232 pages with 45 photographic illustrations. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1953. Price, 18/—.The author’s paper in Cornhill Magazine, from which the present volume has been elaborated, was a rema...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Under a Southern Star, Valle Mariposa, Various Activity South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia

Leeches, carnivorous bees, hacking through thick bamboo jungle on the approach: these are not what come to mind when you talk about Patagonia. But the mystery and secrecy surrounding the many hidden granite walls of the Turbio IV valley (which I...

| Published 2010 | Author Ryan Huetter, AAC


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Fuller Butte, Northeast Face, White Dike Route

Fuller Butte, Northeast face, White Dike Route. This very enjoyable four-pitch free climb was done April 21 by Dave Black, Jim Black and Fred Beckey. The dike makes the polished granite possible; the climbing is continuously interesting. Bolts wer...


Feature Article AAJ
Kichatna Spire

Kichatna SpireDavid S. Roberts and Richard G. C. MillikanRoberts begins:THE Cathedral Spires, hidden in a southwestern corner of the Alaska Range, are probably North America’s closest equivalent to the towers of Patagonia. No other area combines h...


In Memoriam AAJ
John Buchan Churchill, 1922-1952

JOHN BUCHAN CHURCHILL 1922-1952John Buchan Churchill and his fiancée, Jocelyn Moore, lost their lives early last July while ascending Mont Blanc from the Italian side. They were climbing by way of the Arête de l’Innomi- nata from the Gamba Hut and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Baker

Mt. Baker: It is reported, that a party of four climbers, Miss Milana Jank, Dr. Otto Strizek, and Messrs. Benjamin Thompson and Robert Hayes accomplished the first ascent of Mt. Baker from the north on June 28th in twelve and a half hours.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan East Ridge by All-Female Team

Mount Logan East Ridge by All-Female Team. Sylvia Forest, Leanne Alison, Andrea Petzold and I took advantage of the unusually clear spring weather, ascending and descending the east ridge in 14 days. Climbing capsule-style on the lower more techni...


Accident Reports ANAM
West Virginia, Seneca Rocks

West Virginia, Seneca Rocks. On 14 November George Frederick “Fred” Schladen (30) fell to his death at about 1015 while climbing unroped below the Broadway Ledge below South Peak on Seneca Rocks. This area is considered a “scramble” and is normall...