FALL INTO CREVASSE, WEATHER - WHITEOUT CONDITIONS AND HIGH WINDS, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount Rainier, Camp MuirOn April 27, park climbing rangers, assisted by guides from International Mountain Guides and Alpine Ascents International...
HERMANN ULRICHS 1902-1988Hermann Ulrichs was bom on August 3, 1902 in Alameda, California. His family had settled in the area in the mid-1800s. With the death of his mother when he was eleven and graduation from high school at fifteen, Hermann fou...
INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK Wyoming, Devil’s TowerOn August 23, 1993, at 0830, Nate Beckwith (21), David Haagensen (23) and Jung Soo (21) were climbing the first pitch of Soler (5.8+). Beckwith was belaying Haagensen, who, approximately 100 fee...
Khan Tengri Winter Attempt, Tien Shan, 1990-1. Americans Ace Kvala, John Faulkner and I, Frenchman Michel Fauquet and a strong team of eight Soviets led by Anatoly Mochnikov and Alexei Shustrov hoped to make the first winter ascent of Khan Tengri....
STRANDED, NO EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn August 17,1995, Gabor Vereczi (25) and Zoltan Vereczi (23) were attempting the 400 foot high east face of the East Glacier Knob. The Hungarian climbers were not using tec...
The Crown (Huan Guan Shan) Attempt and Tragedy. The 11-member Himalayan Association of Japan to Huan Guan Shan (7295 meters, 23,934 feet) was led by Kinichi Yamamori. For acclimatization, the expedition first traveled to Mustagh Ata where they mad...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda, Spiti, Ascent and Tragedy. Shyamal Kumar Banerjee led an expedition of seven which climbed Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303 meters, 20,680 feet) on August 30. Sambhu Nath Ghosh was sent down because of high-altitude sickness, but b...
Langtang Lirung. Our nine-man expedition climbed Langtang Lirung by its southeast ridge. We made the following camps: Base Camp at 14,100 feet on March 24, and Camps I, II, III and IV at 16,075, 18,375, 20,000 and 21,650 feet on March 27, April 8,...
Great White Wall, Super Wuss and Gouldy Variant. In October Kevin Cochran and I climbed a new route on the eastern side of Fisherman’s Gully. Super Wuss (IV 5.11-) tackles the giant red arête just left of the Great White Wall route; it can be seen...
Huandoy Este, North Face. Our Croatian expedition was composed of Diana Brenko, Ruzica A. Kiš, Miroslav A. Kiš, Branko Puzak, Davor Butkovic, Branko Ognancevic and I as leader. We set up at the Pisco Base Camp at 4600 meters on June 4. After sever...
Bolivian Climbing, Overview. It was a dry year. The Bolivian government introduced drinking laws, which meant bars had to shut at 2 a.m. except for Saturdays and Sundays, when they shut at 3 a.m. There was also some weather, or rather a lack there...
Anyemaqen, East Face. During September and October Geof Bartram, Tim Macartney-Snape, Andrew Henderson, Charles Massy and I visited the Anyemaqen range in Qinghai province. The weather was very bad and we were able to complete only one climb, the ...
Cerro Piergiorgio, Attempt. The esthetic Greenpeace route (7a A0, 900m) on the west flank of this peak, which has only seen two ascents since it was first climbed in the mid-1980s, saw several valiant attempts from the Swiss team of David Göttler ...
California, Tahquitz Rock. On 17 September Lew Himmelrich and Steve Himmelrich (14) had been climbing for about three hours and decided to come down for lunch as they were just out to practice. They had made two rappels and were making the third w...
Kamet, West Face and West Ridge. Our joint Indian Army and French Army expedition climbed a new route on Kamet. We left the roadhead at Mana on August 27. After many porterage problems, we set up Base Camp on the Pachham Kamet Glacier at 5300 mete...
St. Elias and Other Peaks. Shortly before the Editor received the sad news that in September the prominent Czech climber Mirosla v Šmid had been killed soloing on Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite, he got a letter from Šmid, telling that with Swiss fri...
Miles Smart on the last headwall on the Great Trango Tower during the second attempt to climb the southwest ridge. Photo by Timmy O'Neill. During July and August, Miles Smart and I spent almost 50 days camped atop a lateral moraine on the Tra...
Kwangde Nup, North Buttress. In the pre-monsoon period, Alex Lowe and I climbed a new grade-VI route on Kwangde Nup to the right of the one done by Jeff Lowe and David Breashears in 1982. Our route followed the north buttress, which is simply an e...
Everest, West Ridge and South Col Attempt. An international expedition led by Pole Aleksander Lwow was composed of two Poles, a German, an Australian and three Americans. They first attempted the west ridge, where on October 2 they got to 7600 met...
La Mesa and Alma Negra, Ramada range. The Chileans C. Lucero, D. Meza, I. Morlans, N. Muñoz and P. Rosende traversed La Mesa (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) and Alma Negra (6290 meters, 20,637 feet) on February 19 and 20. No traces of the two previous ...