Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri, Southwest Buttress of West Face, Attempt

Publication Year: 1978.

Dhaulagiri, Southwest Buttress of West Face, Attempt. The 13-man Japanese Kansai Expedition, led by Dr. Yoshito Tsukazaki, unsuccessfully attempted the southwest buttress of the west face of Dhaulagiri. Base Camp was established in the Myangdi Khola at 11,500 feet on August 15, but progress was very slow indeed. They placed Camps I (13,500 feet) and II (16,250 feet) on the glacier which descends from the south ridge on August 24 and 27. Camps III (17,225 feet), IV (19,200 feet) and V (20,350 feet) were established on the buttress on September 4, 17 and October 3. A high point of 21,500 feet was reached on October 9. The expedition was abandoned when a member was hit on the head by a falling stone.

Michael Cheney, Himalayan Club