Book Reviews AAJ
High Sierra Wonderland

High Sierra Mountain Wonderland, by Wampler, Heald and McDermand. Privately published by Joseph Wampler, Box 45, Berkeley 1, Calif. 122 pages, illustrated. Price $2.00.Seldom has such a small book contained so much. The high country traversed by t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Yukon Expedition

Yukon ExpeditionThe National Geographic Society’s Yukon Expedition, led by Bradford Washburn of Cambridge, Massachusetts, in the spring of 1935, erased from the map of the world by aerial photography, about 2000 square miles of southwestern Yukon ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, East Horn, South Face, Tetons

East Horn, South Face, Tetons. In an unusual, late season climb, Hal Gribble and Paul Horton made a new route on the south face of the East Horn of Mount Moran on November 16. About four pitches of ice climbing up the right (north) side of Falling...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Belay, Fall on Rock, Lightning, Fear, Idaho, City of Rocks, Elephant Rock

INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK, LIGHTNING, FEAR Idaho, City of Rocks, Elephant RockOn June 20, 1992, Lew Peterson (34) and Mark Parent (35) were climbing “Just Say No” (5.9) when the following accident happened. Peterson was belaying Parent, who h...


Club Activities AAJ
The Arizona Mountaineering Club

The Arizona Mountaineering Club. During the year 2000, the Arizona Mountaineering Club’s membership base reached 596. The club continued its traditional role as trainer of local rock climbers, as well as building its base in broader alpine pursuit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma

Shisha Pangma. Our expedition consisted of Nobuo Teranishi, M. Hongu, T. Ishikawa, Yoshiyuki Tsuji, Kiyohiko Suzuki, M. Hamatani, H. Koike, Sinji Takamura, M. Fujita, T. Suda, H. Yamaha, H. Kojiri, N. Unno, K. Sato, R. Takahashi and me as leader. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Buni Zom, South Face

Buni Zom, South Face. The Bernina Alpine Club Expedition was led by Masao Okabe and had five more members. They left Chitral on July 14 and began walking at Koghozi on the 16th. They went via Birmoha, Romen, Golen Gol, Chakholi, Bokht, Phargam An ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Chandi Himal, Changwatang (6,130m), Second Ascent, West Ridge

Changwatang (6,130m), second ascent, west ridge. Five Japanese led by Michihiro Honda and four experienced Sherpas made the second ascent of Changwatang, a summit just south of the Tibetan border peaks of the Chandi Himal, due north of Simikot air...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C, Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The year’s activities commenced with a showing of the full length color-and-sound movie of the Japanese conquest of Manaslu in the Himalayas. In the spring Fred Ayres gave an illustrated program on his most recent climbing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Spikard (Glacier Peak II), Chilliwacks, North Glacier Route

Mount Spickard (Glacier Peak II), Chilliwacks, North Glacier Route. The glacier route on the north side of Mount Spickard was first climbed by Marilyn Loranger, A1 Tatyrek, Dan Hendricks, Bill Van de Graaff, John Stout, Ruth Ittner, and me on Augu...


Notes AAJ
Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Project, HEC Porter Assistance Expanded to Africa and South America

Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance ProjectHEC porter assistance expanded to Africa and South America. On September 17, as the many climbers waited in their tents for a late season storm to pass, three porters on Mt. Kilimanjaro were not so lucky. These...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Titan, West Face and River Tower

Titan, West Face and River Tower, Fisher Towers. An 11-pitch route was made but not reported in the fall of 1973 by Lou Dawson and Harvey T. Carter with Kenney Williams and Mike Kennedy working on the first six pitches but unable to return for the...

| Keywords
| Published 1973 | Author Eric Bjørnstad


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Snoqualmie

Washington, Cascades, Mt. Snoqualmie—On May 11 a large party of 60 Mountaineers were on an experience climb on Mt. Snoqualmie. They had reached the summit and at about 12 noon were starting the descent. Three of the party were ahead of Cecil Schmi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock – California, Yosemite Valley

FALLING ROCK—California, Yosemite Valley. Michael Cannon (23) and Mark Richey (19) had just come off the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Peak. Richey had tied himself to the wall and Cannon was behind a large flake on a sizeable ledge. The next th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Central, Pre-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt

Shisha Pangma Central, Pre-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Three ascents were made to the central summit of Shisha Pangma before the monsoon by the normal route. None of the climbers continued on to the slightly higher main summit. A large expedition...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Stroud Peak, North Face

Stroud Peak, North Face. Fred Beckey and I made the first ascent of this face on August 28. The route generally followed up a concavity on the right of the face to a large, rubble-covered ledge about three-fourths of the way up; it then traversed ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Reynold E. Isto, 1914-1965

REYNOLD E. ISTO 1914-1965Reynold E. "Pete” Isto died after a fall on South Maroon Peak near Aspen, Colorado on August 23, 1965.A graduate of the South Dakota School of Mines with a degree in Engineering, he was Chief of Plans and Production for th...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The highlight in a busy year was the Club’s outing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, 5-17 August 1951. With 62 members and guests, this was the largest outing in the Club’s history. Base camp was established i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Yosemite, Lembert Dome, Lunar Leap

Lembert Dome, Lunar Leap. This short climb, first done by Russ McLean, Mike Cohen and me in July, 1969, lies just left of the Water Cracks. We climbed directly up to a ledge between the first and second of three arches, traversed left beneath the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Drury Falls

Drury Falls. Drury Falls is one of the more spectacular ice climbs in the central Cascades. Located three miles west of Castle Rock in Tum-water Canyon, this single waterfall produces 900 feet of steep ice climbing. Early in March 1976 on the firs...