ChinaHigher than Mt. Everest? In March, 1944, a pilot based at Chungking reported sighting a peak in Sikang Province, Western China, which appeared to be higher than Mt. Everest. Our member, Mr. Terris Moore, wrote a reply to the New York Times, f...
Anton (Ax) Nelson 1918-2001Ax Nelson passed away in Oakland, California on April 22,2001 at the age of 83. He was a giant of a man and strong as an ox. By trade he was a carpenter and builder of homes, and by avocation a dedicated humanitarian and...
Three Korean climbers, Ahn Chi-young, Heo Young-cheol and Yun Young-Joon, from the Wand Alpine Club attempted the northwest face of Grosvenor from March 31 to April 21. They retreated from ca 5,600m in the central couloir that leads direc...
Hombori Tondo, General Overview. Le Main de Fatima is the best-known feature of the many huge sandstone “mesas” that populate the arid interior of Mali. Much of the development of the five colossal weathered sandstone towers, which rise up to 600 ...
Alpamayo, Kitaraju, Santa Cruz Guides were active in the Cordillera Blanca. On June 15 Italian Giancarlo Grassi and Frenchman Jean-Noël Roche guided six others up the southwest face of Alpamayo in five hours. Tone Valeruz is said then to have desc...
SLIP ON SNOW, FAILURE TO USE EQUIPMENTOregon, Mt. WashingtonOn November 12, 1978, Richard D. Swanson (19) and Richard A. Wolf (18), both of Eugene, Oregon, left their car at 7:50 a.m. for a climb of Mt. Washington’s North Ridge. They hiked up the ...
Chiquito Ridge, Eagle Beaks Area. This indistinct cliff band is located on the west side of Chiquito Ridge northwest of Eagle Beaks. On the U.S.G.S. topo Shuteye Peak, the wall is the formation under the red location number 12. In May 1982 Mark Bl...
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Thunder Mountain. On the morning of December 26, Michael Bressler (16), Brian Milman (17), and Richard Schuster (17) embarked on a ridge climb up the lower western slopes of Thunder Mountain. The boys did not int...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn February 29, 1980, James Waugh (28) and John Dargis (31) were climbing The Nose of El Capitan when Waugh fell, injuring his finger. They decided to rappel down. Waugh went first and...
Philip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range. Ellen Wood, Erich Hinze, Terry Rollerson, Evelyn Feller and I spent two weeks in August climbing in the most heavily glaciated portion of the Philip Smith Mountains near the head of Accomplishment Creek. We cl...
Mount Baring, East Buttress of South Peak. On May 20, Ken Johnson and I climbed an interesting route on the south peak of Mount Baring. We approached via the straighforward south slopes of Baring from old logging roads. We followed up the remains ...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION (TOOLS) PULLEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Murchison, Balfour WallOn February 9, R.C. (40) was with a large group climbing on the Balfour Wall, an area with a variety of one-pitch top-ropeable ice climbs on the lower...
Teton Range, Middle Teton, North Wall to Taylor Route. After a free ascent of Royal Robbins’s Taylor Route on Middle Teton a year earlier, Hans Johnstone wanted to open another line on the steep north face of the Middle Teton. Lying between the No...
Jongsang Attempt. Our joint Slovene-Nepalese expedition hoped to climb Jongsang (7483 meters, 24,550 feet) by its south face alpine-style. The peak has been climbed only once, by the 1930 Dyhrenfurth expedition from the north. We were Filip Bence,...
Swiss-French Expedition. The Swiss, René Dittert, Victor Lasserre, and Rodolphe Tissières, and the French, Dr. Roger Bretton and Robert Gréloz, spent August climbing on the west coast of Greenland near Sukkertoppen, not far from the Arctic Circle....
Kang Guru, Winter Solo Ascent. A four-man Japanese team led by Koichi Kato pitched Base Camp at 12,625 feet, Camp I at 17,050 feet on December 11 and Camp II on the west ridge. Hiroyuki Baba left Base Camp on December 17 and bivouacked at 20,500 f...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Leavenworth—Icicle CreekOn May 13, 1984, Dr. Robert Yakel (52) was on an Olympic Mountain Rescue Team (for which he is the medical advisor) training trip to the Icicle Creek practice area when he took...
Moby Dick, 1988. The very prominent steep and crevassed north glacier of Moby Dick was climbed for the second time on July 24, 1988 by Dave Pollari, Jim Ruch and me. During a 1986 trip into the Battle Range we had contemplated the route, but wide-...
Colorado: (2) near Golden During the summer of 1950 two young children, ages 10 and 7, were on a picnic in Clear Creek Canyon with their parents. The two boys could hardly wait to climb the mountainside. The seven-year-old slipped and his brother ...
Austral Summer Season in the Fitz Roy Area, 1991-2. News is beginning to reach us now on February 14 about the climbing season during the end of 1991 and the beginning of 1992. Aguja Poincenot was climbed by Argentines Maximo Schneider and Oscar P...